How to Replace Coolant Hoses under Intake Manifold?

[kw_da]

Hi,
I have a 86 Lxi (fuel injected). I just found this coolant leak under my intake manifold. It's one of the two small coolant hoses under there - not sure which one since access is so limited. Has anyone found an easier way to replace these hoses? I did a search and all I could find was that it was hard. I was thinking to remove part of the air intake. Maybe reach from bottom for the loner hose, but don't think I can get the short hose. I would appreciate any and all advice. I'm also going to see how much it will cost to have my mechanic fix.
David

[88Accord-DX]

Here is my opinion. If you have tools & a little patience. Get a new intake gasket & pull the intake off & replace the hose. Get some masking tape & label everything you pull off so you know where & what it goes too. If you can't remember where the bolts & such go to. Put them in seperate containers & label them as well.
The longer hose, just remove what you need to replace it. I would use new hose clamps on them also. Good luck.

Edit- As for as auto tech. (mechanic) price, anywhere from $100-$225 , give or take where you live at.

[shepherd79]

it is hard to work on things that under intake manifold. best way is to jack the car up and slide under it. work from the bottom. it is a lot easier. you may still have some tight spots but at least you will be able to see parts.

[kw_da]

Here is my opinion. If you have tools & a little patience. Get a new intake gasket & pull the intake off & replace the hose. Get some masking tape & label everything you pull off so you know where & what it goes too. If you can't remember where the bolts & such go to. Put them in seperate containers & label them as well.
The longer hose, just remove what you need to replace it. I would use new hose clamps on them also. Good luck.
Edit- As for as auto tech. (mechanic) price, anywhere from $100-$225 , give or take where you live at.

Hi,
Thanks for the quick reply. I have tools, but no patience
If I pull the intake off, don't I also need to pull the injectors? I believe then I should replace the seals (can't use the old ones?) - I understand the seals are quite expensive. Do you know of any other gasket that I should replace if I pull the intake? Do I have to remove the throttlebody first?
Thanks,
David

[kw_da]

it is hard to work on things that under intake manifold. best way is to jack the car up and slide under it. work from the bottom. it is a lot easier. you may still have some tight spots but at least you will be able to see parts.

Thanks for the quick reply,
I went under the car briefly today to see if I could access things. I couldn't see the end of the short u-shaped tube - could barely touch - maybe if I removed the oil filter? Need to see what else I can remove.
It also appears like I can't buy the part (I believe it is #25 on
I guess I can just buy some tubing and bend it, hopefully it wouldn't kink.
David

[88Accord-DX]

Hi,
Thanks for the quick reply. I have tools, but no patience
If I pull the intake off, don't I also need to pull the injectors? I believe then I should replace the seals (can't use the old ones?) - I understand the seals are quite expensive. Do you know of any other gasket that I should replace if I pull the intake? Do I have to remove the throttlebody first?
Thanks,
David

No, the throttle body will come off with the intake as an assembly. One other gasket to replace is the EGR gasket. Since the fuel rail will need to come off, new injector seals should be replaced. They aren't to expensive. Get some anti-freeze, coolant might be lost. The longer hose should & can be reached from the bottom where it connects. Anything under the intake takes a miracle to get too.

[snoopyloopy]

you don't need the special tubes honda sells or lists. i usually go with 3/8" heater hose and it's fine so far. most of my hoses in that area have gone out on me already. but i changed them all from the top. and they are a major pain to change. so do it when you have time and in the day if possible. because nightfall makes it so much harder. you could just take them off and bypass the im.

[kw_da]

you don't need the special tubes honda sells or lists. i usually go with 3/8" heater hose and it's fine so far. most of my hoses in that area have gone out on me already. but i changed them all from the top. and they are a major pain to change. so do it when you have time and in the day if possible. because nightfall makes it so much harder. you could just take them off and bypass the im.

Hi,

Thanks for all who replied. I was able to replace the hoses from the top. I had to remove most of the air intake to get access. What really helps is having a long nose vice-grip that I can put on the spring clips - once I get them locked its easy to remove/replace the clips.

Now on to trouble shooting the EGR light problem.

David

[snoopyloopy]

yeah, my intake junk is gone since i have an sri. so it definitely makes it easier.

[88Accord-DX]

Now on to trouble shooting the EGR light problem.
David

Most of the time, you can knock off the carbon deposites on it. They tend to stick. If you have a vacuum pump, apply vacuum to it. If it holds, the EGR is good. I beleive you have EFI & a lift selinoid on it. I'm not sure how much voltage is need to move it. You should get a code off the ECU though.

[kw_da]

Most of the time, you can knock off the carbon deposites on it. They tend to stick. If you have a vacuum pump, apply vacuum to it. If it holds, the EGR is good. I beleive you have EFI & a lift selinoid on it. I'm not sure how much voltage is need to move it. You should get a code off the ECU though.

I've been fighting this EGR light for awhile. What I've done - removed EGR valve & cleaned (it appears to work properly), replaced constant vacuum valve (cvv), ran diagnostics in manual. The new cvv appears to be putting out the minimum vacuum. I measure 130-150 mm, the manual says 150mm minimum (not sure how accurate my gauge is). However, Majestic Honda only accepts bad parts back if a Honda mechanic says its bad - what a terrible return policy. If I manually apply 12 V to the EGR solenoid, it appears to work. However, if do the test where you rev the engine to 2k-2.5k rpm and pull 300 mm on vacuum hose (22? - can't remember), I can't feel the solenoid working - possibly the engine vibration is too high.

Thanks,

David

I may just buy another cvv ($40) to check it out. At the current time I'm not getting the error light, but I haven't taken it on a longer drive.