Timing Marks?

[Tailfin]

I wanted to check the timing on this 88 LX...and I have the service manual... It shows the light pointing towards the passenger side near where the distributor is...makes sense so far. It says to remove the rubber cover on the head inspection window or something...which I don't see. The distributor in the diagram is also pointing the opposite direction than on the car (like the part where you connect the vacuum advances is extending toward the front of the car, in the diagram it's toward the back). Anyhoo, long story short, I don't see any marks or anything to set the timing by...little help? :-P

[A18A]

its not in the head, its in the block, it might not have a rubber cover though, and also the marks you will see are on a wheel in there, hard to see if you got no light down there.

you can just see it in this pic, its were the block meets with the tranny


edit:
actually a better pic:

just above the engine code

my timing light just goes from the end of the #1 plug wire to the plug itself, and point the light down the hole and get the car to idling tempature (with advance hoses off) and it should be flashing heaps right on the tdc mark, and just adjust the dizzy while looking at were the light is flashing in the hole, and if u wanna, line it up so the tdc mark is on the point hope that helps ya

[Tailfin]

Ah, yes, bless you lol. I think some oil sludge was masking this from me, thanks for taking the time with the pics. I've got a handy timing light that just clamps onto the wire and picks up the signal, so you don't have to disconnect the wire and such. I just couldn't find the little bugger...but I guess that is the inspection "window" there, where the flywheel is. Thanks again.

[2oodoor]

tailfin, omg, your dist is probabley different brand or 180 degrees out, if is running dont muck with it . I had to remove a braket next to #4 plug on the head to get a good view of it. The only reason I would use a light is to mark where it was to start with, then move the dist. till it runs great without dieseling or spark knocking , or running on. and lock it down. back off the idle stop before you start any of that kind of thing though....

Overdosed, you got a 18 motor,,, h o t r o d

dirtymotor , or maybe I am just used to looking at my clean one. lol.... great pictures dude.... I need to borrow your camera... smile

[88Accord-DX]

There is base timing your supposes to set first, with the distributor lines pugged.

[Tailfin]

No worries, I did vacuum modifying, which included removing the second vacuum advance on the distributor, so I figured I could get away with bumping the timing up a bit. I tested it warm, revved it after the change...test drove it...it's all good.

I just thought the actual markings were a bit vague...a dot...a red line...with a 1 and a 5 on either side, as if 15 lol. But all's well.

[2oodoor]

There is base timing your supposes to set first, with the distributor lines pugged.

True statement ddude2uc
I absolutley do recommend factory procedures.
However on my personal vehicles, most of them anyway, I have always been able to run 2-4 degrees more advance than specs as long as the current fuel lets it, never enough to detonate a burn pistons etc..,
It has been a while since Ive owned a vehicle you could advance the timeing on anyway., Fords, esp. stay as close to factory specs as possible, but with modifications and bypassing some things, you can give her a little more advance and really helps with not having to give it as much throttle or downshift etc.
I think Tailfin has a good grip on the situation, the guy is pretty sharp not to be a tech, at least he claims not to be

[A18A]

my cars valve timing has been prolly 3 or 4 teeth +/- TDC with dizzy adjusted both ways, still all good, just no balance of power and a heap of black smoke

[Tailfin]

Yeah, modern cars don't seem to let you mess with the timing... In a lot of cases, I think that's because with the knock sensors that are available and such now, there's no way you're going to do better than the computer lol. My 90 Cadillac, you can do it, but you have to put it in "set timing mode" first by jumpering two terminals on the ALDL connector.

Funny thing with either car though... As far as I've heard, engine knock is not something you can miss. I know the principle and all but I still don't think I've ever heard one knock lol. On both my Caddy and this Honda I've been messing about with, I tried turning the distributor farther than I would normally, and I never hear knocking... It just caused the idle to surge up and down on the Caddy...on this, it won't let you turn it more than a certain amount (which isn't bad lol). But anyway... I just get a little extra in there and don't push my luck :-P.

[2oodoor]

my cars valve timing has been prolly 3 or 4 teeth +/- TDC with dizzy adjusted both ways, still all good, just no balance of power and a heap of black smoke

good sig pic of your car OD.... I like that
Hey are you saying your valve timing is off 3 teeth? that is a bit much , you can fix that without taking anything apart if your careful. Or are you talking about something else..
cool picture

[A18A]

good sig pic of your car OD.... I like that
Hey are you saying your valve timing is off 3 teeth? that is a bit much , you can fix that without taking anything apart if your careful. Or are you talking about something else..
cool picture

thanks but yeah, iva had my timing way off,, to the point were it would only wanna stay alive if i held it above 2.5krpm, but i think ive messed with it enough now, plus the way i was adjusting it wasnt too good and i dont really wanna hurt the belt anymore now