Just got a quote from Delta cam for the 260 grind. Price as of this morning:
Just thought it's useful info for anyone looking to do the cam....The 260 would be the best grind for all around performance. The cost will be about $93.50
Scott
Just got a quote from Delta cam for the 260 grind. Price as of this morning:
Just thought it's useful info for anyone looking to do the cam....The 260 would be the best grind for all around performance. The cost will be about $93.50
Scott
shipped or plus shipping? if it's shipped, that's a wonderful deal. if it's plus shipping, that's a great deal.
the last couple times i ordered cams from delta it was 104 shipped. they will give you around $30 off if you send them a core cam or send your stock cam back. so it comes out to around 75 bucks shipped (minus YOUR shipping charges) after you send back a cam. really good people there and they are super fast!
hmm...only ~$100 shipped. that's pretty good, even if you don't send your stock cam back. and so that means that they actually have some in stock?
Well, I'm seriously considering getting a cam done by them. I'm going to look at an LX-I coupe 5sp tonight about 50 miles from my house. I've been really conemplating doing any more than cosmetics and regular tune-up/maintenance on my LX just cause I can't stand the carb. It's too much of a pain when it's cold, and it can get really cold here sometimes. And on the plus side, I would have less "upgrading" to do to the brake system with an lx-i and they are just all around more powerful. I'd take a 5sp lxi over an automatic lx any day and I think most would too!
I really want a cam for mine too. can anyone tell me what kind of gains Im gonna see with one of these?
i had delta 272 grind from them about 2 years ago. it was best upgrade i have ever made. 272 IMO is the best grind. it is more for the mid and top range. After 2-3 month i wasn't enough for me. so i sold it. now i have colt wild grind sitting in my closet to be put it.
Alex.
yeah i wouldnt bother with a 260 cam.
i had a 272 for 3 years, and it maintained stock idle, and stock drivability. you lose a little low end, and make up for it nicely in the topend. especially if you have intake header and exhaust on there.
this and a header are my favorite two mods to date...
Well looks like I will be looking more into the 272 grind then. Have you all tried the Tri-flow grind?
Is the low end loss noticable? and what did it cost for the wild grind
well yeah its noticable. but its worth giving up in my opinion. it all depends how you drive the car.
if you are the kind of person that shifts at 3000-4000 rpm even when you are trying to have a little fun, then a cam is probably not the best mod for you. if you like to wrap the car out and rev it to 6000+ then you will really enjoy the powerband with a cam.
personally i can give up low end for a nice strong topend. other people (like my dad for example) dont truely use topend, and would rather keep power in the 3500-4500 range... in this case a 260 might be better...
with a 272 you dont start feeling 'the pull' until 3000-3500 rpm, but it just gets stronger until redline. the car doesnt taper off at 4500-5000 like it does with the stock cam.
i have a stock cam in my built motor and I HATE IT! lol tons of low end but it peters out when i really want/need the power...
i was quoted $72.50 for a 272, im going to order it when i rebuild the motor.
I wind mine up all the time. I love the red line lol I always have the rpms up so this might be a good mod for me, I just dont want to lose too much bottem end
its not too bad, and you don't notice it that much cause as the rpms increase it starts to pull harder, so it is less noticable that it wasnt pulling as hard before. it just makes for a gradually increasing power over the powerband. feels nice.
btw any delta grind should be the same price as any other delta grind, they don't charge more for a more extreme grind (unless perhaps you needed a custom grind - they talked to me about a 272/282 dual profile grind for my turbo setup. )
This coming weekend I am gonna give it another go at the damn crank bolt. A reground cam is useless to me if i can't take the damn belt cover off to take off the timing belt! i had a damn 10 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and the damn thing still wouldn't budge! Anybody got any ideas on how to get this off????? It's way overdue for the belt change and I'd like to do the cam at the same time...
272 it is lol. anyone have the phone #?
Originally Posted by Jasonf860
is auto?? make sure its on neutral lol, same thing was happening to me and it was in gear
http://www.deltacam.com/
Toll Free: 1.800.562.5500
[email protected]
http://deltacam.com/Originally Posted by EX-ileAccord
the phone # is 1.800.562.5500
Sweet. Thanks guys
Well, just for shits and giggles I called Colt cam today. I talked with Jeff I think his name was for well over 1/2 an hour about the cams for our cars. he really is very knowledgable on the subjest of the A20a. He had me sold on the triflow all the way up to the price tag. Basically, I spoke to him about doing a tri-flow stage 2 with a little more lobe seperation so that it can be run in either a carbed or EFI model. His best price : $205 out the door and that doesn't include me sending my cam to them. Also said that they usually charge an extra $25 for changing the grind specs i.e. the lobe seperation but since I will be running my car in SCCA kart series locally, he is gonna semi-sponsor that and do the increased seperation free. That is as long as I run a "Colt Cams" sticker in my rear window. That is all well and good, and I'm more than sure I'd be happy with the cam based on his input, but it seems cost wise, and everything, I am better off buying the Delta grind. Even with all shipping aside, the 260 or 272 grind will be far less expensive than the Tri-flow we discussed and should still give me a considerable increase. I guess Delta it is.... 272 and I'm ordering it up tomorrow morning!
you won't be dissapointed. remember to set your valve lash when you put the cam in. .006" intake, .008" exhuast. and these are cold settings. and readjust them after a few days/weeks just to make sure they are still sitting where they should be!
Ok so I lied. I ordered the cam today! They had a cam in stock so I elected for the exchange. I should have my new cam in within 5 days! Of course I have to wait to the weekend to do it, but Maybe if I am super lucky, I'll get it by Friday.... Doubtful but maybe. So if not, then the following weekend will be time enough for me to tear the car apart and change the cam, timing belt, and I am going to do the front main seal while I'm in there. I'm going to do my best to get my friend over with her digi-cam to take some pics for a front seal how-to since it's not included in the timing belt change how-to. Changing all these goodies, what other gaskets/seals would be a good idea to change while in in there... Camshaft seals, distributor seal? Also, I'd like some opinions on changing out the tensioner pully while I'm in there too. What do you guys think?
I took my rocker cover off and took the entire thing,cam and sprocket over to the automotive machine shop here,came off in ten seconds. they have tricks. also I can't remember but isn't it a left hand nut? were you tightning it?Originally Posted by Jasonf860you can get the timing belt from nappa in a kit with a tensioner,always a good idea to change. also how old is your water pump? it's really easy to change while everythings apart. if you have ever considered a new oil pump,now is the time. cam seal,crank seal, probably a new valve cover seal while it's off.k so I lied. I ordered the cam today! They had a cam in stock so I elected for the exchange. I should have my new cam in within 5 days! Of course I have to wait to the weekend to do it, but Maybe if I am super lucky, I'll get it by Friday.... Doubtful but maybe. So if not, then the following weekend will be time enough for me to tear the car apart and change the cam, timing belt, and I am going to do the front main seal while I'm in there. I'm going to do my best to get my friend over with her digi-cam to take some pics for a front seal how-to since it's not included in the timing belt change how-to. Changing all these goodies, what other gaskets/seals would be a good idea to change while in in there... Camshaft seals, distributor seal? Also, I'd like some opinions on changing out the tensioner pully while I'm in there too. What do you guys think?
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89 Accord lx
Last edited by lostforawhile; 10-11-2006 at 04:23 PM.
Ok, I replaced the water pump this past Saturday, Also replaced the valve cover gasket a month ago when I adjusted the valves. Damn thig still leaks though. I already have the new timing belt sitting here waiting, But I'm contemplating the tensioner. I may change it, but on the same token, I can have it all apart in about 20 minutes if it starts making any noise. I do plan on changing the crank seal while I'm in there, and also that stupid hose on the backside of the oil pan that goes up to the engine. WTF is that for anyway? Oil pump huh? I didn't even think of that... Thanks! I think I'll definitely change the cam seals since it will all be out. And since I have never had the dizzy off, is it just an o-ring for a seal on that or is there actually a gasket?you can get the timing belt from nappa in a kit with a tensioner,always a good idea to change. also how old is your water pump? it's really easy to change while everythings apart. if you have ever considered a new oil pump,now is the time. cam seal,crank seal, probably a new valve cover seal while it's off.
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