I have done the basic vacuum modification with a few things I wanted to change. I canned the fast idle completely, and I kept the cruise control. I saw on the how-to that the choke can be removed... I know how physically, of course, but on this thing (88 Accord LX), the choke has been instrumental in throwing things off and being touchy. What I'm wondering is how the car can run consistently, as well as start without a bunch of feathering without the choke to create some vacuum underneath.
I ain't no expert on carbs or anything, but you might find the following
interesting. My '75 Civic had a pull-button choke that is mounted right
next to the headlight switch. Before I start the car early in the morning,
I pull the choke button out. I push the choke button back in when I deem
the engine is sufficiently warmed up. Manual choke! The car came like
that from the factory. What an ingenius idea that was from Honda. Needless
the say, the choke on that 75 Civic never broke nor ever cause the engine to
run funny. Maybe a manual choke is what we need?!
Last edited by bushbean; 09-19-2006 at 10:45 AM.
i hate the fast idle when starting cold/warm on my 89.
seems like thats pretty bad for a motor...
......to rev so high/fast.
how do you "disable" the choke?
tap the gas acouple of times....spray some carb cleaner on the carb so the choke gets cleaned up.Originally Posted by ottomatic
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
"Disabling" the choke would be as simple as removing the choke plate, which is shown in the how-to on the emission/vacuum removal thingamaboo. It is not the same as the fast idle, but they are both controlled on the same linkage. The choke is not what causes the car to rev, it's the fast idle cam/unloader. I'm already tossing the fast idle out the window, and I have no problem with the choke doing the same if I understood how it's supposed to work without it...
You could hook up the choke manually.
I don't need the choke at all, when the car is fully warm you don't want the choke there, it just becomes an air restriction.
- llia
Yes, I realize that lol...but how do you start the darned thing without pumping the pedal...especially in cold weather...?
close the choke when you start...
if that doesn't help then you probably need hotter intake air, especially when it's colder out or in the mornings.
You can still use the stock hot air intake diaphragm that is on the air box.
just hook up the vacuum line under the air box.
It also further chokes the air when the air box is getting hot air from the heat shield.
.
- llia
I know it's supposed to be closed when you start...but you said you don't even need the choke. What I was asking is how you start it effectively without the choke there at all.
It doesn't get that cold where I am... I live in Hawaii, therefore I don't need the choke.
Plus I don't mind pumping the gas if I need to for those winter months where is might be 60-70* out
- llia
bringing back old posts...and jacking them 2.... could the choke be fully removed and it run well even on bad cold start ups ? just takes some gas pumping till its warm right? i have the carb ohh while im waiting for the head and this might be something i can do to pas the time, i allready broke the vacum choke relase thingy
In my experience, no... In fact, I still don't know how he has no choke lol. Even after the engine is totally warmed up, if I hold the choke plate all the way open, it eventually sputters and stalls out, from what seems to be a lack of vacuum sucking the fuel down.
I actually just yesterday got the thing working decently, and only because I got a new choke opener. Before, it would not start and stay running...because the opener couldn't pull it open far enough to let air in...so I loosened the choke return spring (mine is jury rigged since the original broke), which caused it to open too far after warming up, causing the problem I just mentioned. So it was obvious to me that I needed the choke opener so I could tighten the return spring so it wouldn't open as far when warm, and have enough pull to open it when cold.
I can't really say why it doesn't have the suction... The car has nothing for power, but I'm used to a V8 and I don't know how to judge this one... However, it does average out to 26-27 mpg (that's with a fair bit of highway, but not all), so it doesn't seem to me like it would be a nasty engine problem. The intake manifold and carburetor gaskets have been replaced, and I've removed most of the vacuum stuff, so I don't see how it could be a vacuum leak... Anyhoo, that's my $0.02.
Tailfin, your on the right track buddy, A20A1 lives in a warmer climate. you however need the choke blade in there, you have removed everything else, exactly what I did, but had to pump the gas to crank it and take off, bad for your cylinders, and if your 20 degrees outside it aint gonna work that way, go to autozone or what ever you buy from, and buy a universal manual choke kit, there is enough hardware in there to make it work but you still have to hold the gas a little cuz you done away with fast idle cam . Shitzell if you have to go get a lawnmower throttle cable at home depot and get something to fasten it down and link it to the choke blade rod, or cam, whatever you have left that is safe to connect, and be alert of where your breather is going to go back when your done so it has to come from down low
I got 24" of vacuum without choke, more then enough.
You don't need the choke there.
You could get an air cleaner though, those will create a restriction and up the vacuum.
The choke restricts air and adds some vacuum but the throttle plate position should be the one creating the vacuum for the idle circuit, if your throttle plate is open too far you wont get as much vacuum and thus not as much fuel for idle.
- llia
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