PROJECT, WEBER DCOE ( SITE )
My DCOEs just came in! Won them on Ebay. They have some linkages included and an intake manifold from some Mazda. Man, they're dirty, and much bigger than I expected. Phydeaux, yours were used and now they're clean and shiny - what did you use to clean them? I have a rebuild kit on it's way form a guy in Italy - includes 2 float bolts and filters plus the gaskets and pinvalves. I am SO looking foward to having these on my car. Now comes the intake manifold fun!
A pic of them:
Mike Clark
dammit man, you into a good upgrade, eh? i've never seen them in action, but i'd say they make a huge diff over the stock carb
Derick
BTW, good find
Lucky bastard.
well, you will have to update us on this project.
Alex.
Hardcore!!!
- llia
Are those just like individual throttle bodies? Sorry i don't know jack about carurated engines.
Mine aren't really clean and shiney. The only thing thats shiney on them are the air horns mainly because they are new. I cleaned them up with some 2+2 carb cleaner to get the grime off, but they are aluminum so you can polish them up to a mirror shine if you really want to. Looks like you have the cold start valves so you'r going to have to build a box around the carbs if your going to keep with the turbo.
andy
Eek. Looks like the cold start circuits are gonna be a hassle when it comes to starting up the car. This is ripped from http://members.aol.com/dvandrews/webers.htm:
"Allow the float chambers to fill if you have an electric pump, this should take about 5-10 seconds, fully depress the accelerator rapidly four times, then on a light throttle, turn the engine over, if it does not start immediately, repeat the procedure three times. The engine should fire, but may need 'nursing' for a minute or two before it will idle, gentle prodding of the accelerator should keep it alive long enough for it to warm up. If the engine does not fire within three attempts, then try five or six pumps. If this does not work, depress the accelerator fully and hold it open while turning the engine over for 5 to 15 seconds, then close the accelerator and try again."
Bah, to have a twin carbed 3Gee is worth it!
Last edited by Site; 08-20-2002 at 08:47 AM.
Mike Clark
DCOE INSTALL ( SITE )
I've found a machine shop that also specializes in aluminum welding about 45 mins away from me that's willing to do my intake manifold for the DCOEs. I'm going to give them the Mazda dual sidedraft manifold that came with the carbs and the stock A20A1 manifold - they'll chop, machine & join the two. I meet with a tech on Tuesday to talk about the project. These guys have quite an operation - a machine and welding shop specializing in aluminum with over 20 employees. He said a ballpark figure is $150. Not bad - can't buy a new sidedraft manifold for that, let alone a custom. Sweet.
Took one of the DCOEs completely apart tonight (by the way, if you're gonna mess with DCOEs or DHLAs, you must get Des Hammil's powertuning book). Cleaned all the parts - these carbs have had some real use, but they clean up well. They're built to last, it seems. I was concerned about breaking stuck parts while disassembling the carb, but the book I mentioned above guided me through the tough parts. Tomorrow I'll reassemble it using all new gaskets, needle/seat assemblies, replace the fuel filters.
I was a bit worried about the throttle plates not opening smoothly on this first one. They were gummed up and didn't snap back to the closed position well when I would move them manually. After a good cleaning they operate very well. The other carb is cleaner - the throttle plates open and close smoothly, so no worries there.
I'm so pumped about getting these things installed. Can you believe that performance shops charge $140+ per carb to clean and rebuild DCOEs? That's nuts. I think I may throw up a website and have my own DCOE rebuild service. I can easily underbid the quotes I got.
The conversion goes well, so far. No complaints yet, just fun!
Mike Clark
Congrats man good luck
It's nice to see people doing REAL custom work!! :super: Go kill some tegs.
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
Thought I'd post some pics of progress on the 40 DCOEs conversion so far. The pics aren't the best quality - they're stills from an old single chip Sony DV cam:
Here's a DCOE taken apart and ready to be cleaned and rebuilt:
Here's a top view of the carb with all the parts removed:
A view of the throttle plates. I removed, cleaned and repacked the bearings:
A pic of a cleaned and rebuilt DCOE:
Man, this stuff is phat. It has tray inside to dip the parts:
Mike Clark
Stock throttle cable bracket screaming to be modified so it can open up on some real power:
Custom sidedraft fresh from the welding & machine shop:
Hmmmm . . . this is gonna need some porting for sure:
Another view of the manifold with a very familiar flange:
It begs me, "Give me sidedrafts, yo!":
Still to do:
Plug some lines.
Port the manifold.
Tap in the brake booster.
Mount the carbs to the manifold.
Run the fuel lines.
Hook up the throttle cable.
Pray.
Cuss.
Stuff I'm forgetting.
Get my car running again! I'm dying to try out my new tires and feel the diff the sidedrafts make!
Mike Clark
I dunno if its just the way I'm looking at it, but it doesn't look like that manifold has the necessary tip in it.
It should be like this:
The carbs need to be parallel to the ground, or within 5° of it when they are mounted to the engine.
andy
Last edited by PhydeauX; 09-19-2002 at 03:29 PM.
I chose to go with a 10 deg tip instead of 15. Some reading and conversations with DCOE users has lead me to believe that the DCOEs are at optimum when they have a 5 deg upward tilt. One reason is that when the engine accelerates aggressively, it tilts back some. A slight tilt up assures that the DCOEs don't tilt below zero deg. One person (who has DCOEs mounted on her race cars and has written numerous articles about the carbs) told me that 5 degrees is best, anything beyond that is un-useable, anything below that to 0 deg is useable, negative tilt is un-useable. I decided to give the 5 degree tilt a try.
By the way, Phydeaux, thanks so much for thoroughly posting your progress when you did you manifold. Without your pics and comments, I don't think I could have gotten this made.
Last edited by Site; 09-19-2002 at 09:01 AM.
Mike Clark
Wow, nice job! I'm thinking of doing this maybe next spring.
Good bye to the 1989 DX Type R. Hello 2001 LX.
DX:
"Four wheels, four doors, and no frills."
shit that looks sweet,
man, i can't wait till my birthday, i am gonna ask my parents to buy me weber.
Alex.
Lookin good.
- llia
I finallly put the DCOEs in last night. Installed the manifold with the carbs already attached. Ran the vacuum lines (Funstick - I tapped 3 runners for braking power and 1 runner for the PCV breather box coming from the bottom of the block - thanks for the advice!) Ran the fuel lines. Attached the throttle cable. Had my wife push the accelerator to the floor while I checked the throttle plates. Attached a return spring to the throttle linkage to ensure that the throttle plates close when I let off the accelerator. Adjusted the idle screws for an initial startup. Gave everything a "2nd over" to see if I was forgetting anything.
Then, I got in the car and proceeded with the "cold start" procedure as outlined in http://members.aol.com/dvandrews/webers.htm (one of three writings that I have kept close to me throughout the conversion).
1. Fill carb bowls with fuel by turning on electric fuel pump. I did this by turning the ignition on and off 4 to 5 times.
2. Push all the way down on the accelerator and let off quickly 4 times.
3. Start the engine while mildly depressing the accelerator.
4. If that doesn't work, try it 2 more times.
5. If engine still doesn't start, push accelerator all the way down and turn the engine for 5-10 seconds.
6. Try it all again.
Well, after trying this for 20 mins the car wouldn't start. The battery was dying and I was losing hope. I took a break for a few mins, then went back out to the garage, went through steps 1-3 and . . .
It started!
Man, PhydeauX is right, these things have a MEAN growl and I move up and down the RPMs easily. I woke the kids up
I took it out for a drive after adjusting the idle. You can really feel it pull strongly when the throttle plates begin to open wide around 3500 RPMs. In fact, it has strong pull throughout my current RPM range. Now I need a new clutch . . . oh, and an aluminum flywheel, and a cam, and exhaust, and a 1st gen Integra tranny, and . . . LOL.
I am SO stoked!
Here's the total cost of my conversion:
$221.35 - 2 used DCOE's from Ebay. Came with a manifold (not for our cars, but I used parts of it for the custom manifold), 40mm airhorns, throttle linkages, softmounts, and a ton of other parts the guy didn't know what to do with - many of which I used.
$250 - Custom sidedrafts manifold made to my specs by 73rd Street Tool and Die in Cincinnati, OH.
$25 - DCOEs rebuild kit from a guy in Italy who lives across the street from a performance shop - btw, he collects Maseratis (nice hobby).
$10 - Cold Valve Blanking Plates from RaceTEP.com. Necessity if your DCOEs come with the cold start valves - they suck.
$70 - 2 used 3 inch K&N DCOE Air Cleaners from Todd Walrich at wolfcreekracing.com.
Total cost of DCOEs conversion: $576.35 and about 5 weeks of work. Worth every dime and minute!
I'll post some pics soon.
---
Key words to aid in search results:
weber dcoe DCOE dual carb carburetor conversion manifold custom intake
---
Last edited by A20A1; 08-01-2003 at 03:29 PM.
Mike Clark
awesome! glad it worked out so well.
- Joe
My thanks goes out to the following people for helping me make this project a success!
PhydeauX (3Geez)
Justin Cheatwood
Brian Waters
Funstick (3Geez)
Marc49 (3Geez)
A20A1 (3Geez)
accordSi (3Geez)
OldSchoolSwap (3Geez)
88TurboAccord (3Geez)
TeriAnn Wakeman from www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/
Todd Walrich from www.WolfCreekRacing.com
Ingemar Lampa from www.tassenet.net
Wayne from www.ChipWizards.co.uk
Paul Tegler from www.Teglerizer.com
Des Hammill
73rd Street Tool and Die (Cincinnati)
Everyone on 3Geez.com
Mike Clark
Nice. Glad to hear you got it running. You only hooked up the pcv to one cylender and its not messing with your mixture at all? You really only needed to hook the brake booster up to one runner, it makes more then enough vacuume.
andy
that's awsome that you got that done. i can't wait to see some pictures. so when do you want to come do mine?
-Grant. I'm just a pirate chasing booty.
That is awesome.
lol... "I'd like to thank God, my parents, my wife..." :lol
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
Glad to hear you got it working! We'll have to meet sometime since you're in Cinci and I'm in Dayton. Good luck with everything.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks