great results from new coil.

[DDRaptor]

I got some awesome ressults from my 34.95 msd blaster 2 coil., i know most people don't use the resistor but it specifically says on a stock system a ballast resistor MUST be used. So i'm just looking for some guidance.

thanks alot.

[MessyHonda]

i just poped mine in.....wut resistor are you talking about? pics would help

[bobafett]

when i installed mine i did not have a resistor either. blaster SS is the little square coil right?

i installed msd ignition also at that time, but i dont remember anything about a resistor.

[DDRaptor]

It's called a ballast resistor in the directions it specifically says that if you are installing it into a stock ignition system that a ballast resistor must be used.
It does'nt come with it but it's says it's neccessary.

but other than that it's the best 35 bucks iv'e spent on the car yet. no more issues starting, no more rough idle, everything just smoothed out.

[MessyHonda]

It's called a ballast resistor in the directions it specifically says that if you are installing it into a stock ignition system that a ballast resistor must be used.
It does'nt come with it but it's says it's neccessary.
but other than that it's the best 35 bucks iv'e spent on the car yet. no more issues starting, no more rough idle, everything just smoothed out.

can you post pics of your set up...i just got the little ss blaster suqare coil. i dont want to mess anything up.

[labeledsk8r]

you do not need a resistor, the baster 2 (and and other replacement coil) is designed to work with pins (or is it points) system wich then it would need a balest, your car has a built in resistors, its all a plug and play thing, just like the how-to has it.

[labeledsk8r]

this is taken right off a website that sells the resistor

With a stockpoints style ignition, a ballast resistor must be placed in-line with the positive terminal of the coil. The following Blaster Coils are supplied with a 0.8 ohm ballast resistor plus a terminal and boot to fit most applications. Mallory Unilite applications also require the ballast resistor.

mostly saying that if your running points then you need it or if your running a Mallory Unilite system. so its fine like you got it. no worries man. just enjoy on of the best low costs mods you can do

[MessyHonda]

this is taken right off a website that sells the resistor
With a stockpoints style ignition, a ballast resistor must be placed in-line with the positive terminal of the coil. The following Blaster Coils are supplied with a 0.8 ohm ballast resistor plus a terminal and boot to fit most applications. Mallory Unilite applications also require the ballast resistor.
mostly saying that if your running points then you need it or if your running a Mallory Unilite system. so its fine like you got it. no worries man. just enjoy on of the best low costs mods you can do

so that means i dont need one?....sweet....oh yeah thanks. your a bro

[DDRaptor]

kool just rather be safe then sorry.

now i hit the brick wall other than a carb and an exhaust what other minor things can be done to squeeze more effciency and power out of this 18yr old a20

[labeledsk8r]

yeah i know what you mean i had researched about the resistor for like a week before i installed mine on my car back when i started working on it so thought id save ya some time lol..

for more power besides a webber and any exhaust parts,,, umm lol your in the same boat i was with my carbed accord,, mostly i just took useless weight outa my cay (you can feel a diffrence after just cutting out 100 pounds) um try some upgraded spark plugs and bigger wires. also can do a K&N filter with a cut air box. but all those are real small upgrades and dont have much pawer adds but every litle bit helps.... if i have to scrap my car ima have my pacesetter cat back exhaust left over... messy allready called the headers if the car is scraped. but if it is scraped then there available if your interested lol. good luck

[Vanilla Sky]

if you scrap the car, i'd be interested in the exhaust, especially if you're still in slocala

[DDRaptor]

Hey do you have to gap your plugs too?

[MessyHonda]

Hey do you have to gap your plugs too?

mine came.44 but i might take them out and gap them to .50 see if i get anything out of it.

[mkymonkey]

isnt the resistor that square thing coming off of the ground wire?

[mkymonkey]

lol......oh. shows how much i know huh

[DDRaptor]

:Thanks to this new coil, now my car actually huh: chirps tires i was so impressed.

mods left to do `
5-spd, New carb, Header and exhaust.

[MessyHonda]

:Thanks to this new coil, now my car actually huh: chirps tires i was so impressed.
mods left to do `
5-spd, New carb, Header and exhaust.

i would say fuel injection for the win...unless you can run a weber on your state

[speedpenguin]

Stock replacement will do the same job, BTW.

The gains you are seeing is because your old coil is worn out. An essentially stock car will not see any improvement from a hotter coil.

[Vanilla Sky]

you may not see an improvement from the hotter coil alone, but there is the potential for improvement with being able to widen the spark plug gap.

[DDRaptor]

How big should i gap them. I add a little more. it's larger than .045 now. i can't really read the gap guage right but the plug occupies the 3 lines after .45 so i'm assuming it's .45 - .48

how do i know if I can run a weber. i have to take an emissions test and my new exhaust is going to have a cat anyways.

[speedpenguin]

This is from a Grassroots Motorsports article written by BTCC title holder and writer of 29 books, David Vizard

To most effectively light off a charge-especially in four-valves-per-cylinder engines, which typically lack sufficient mixture motion at speeds below as much as 4000 rpm-a good, strong spark through a big spark plug gap is needed. This means having having a coil that will not only supply the voltage but, equally if not more important, the current for a high energy spark.
Once you've made sure the coil side of the ignition is up to the job, it is important not to squander the benefits betweent there and the spark plugs. Old or substandard plug cables can kill the spark very effectively. Cheap carbon string cable will, when new, get the job done, but be prepared to replace them every year.
A better bet is to use the wire wound type of plug cable, which has lower resistance so more energy gets to the plug. Do not assume, however, that a cable with lower resistance is better. If plug cables with too low a resistance are used, the spark extinguishes itself sooner, thus resulting in less spark energy and duration. The maximum energy dissipation at the plug appears to occur when the plug cables have between 100 and maybe up to 1000 ohms total.
Now, once the means of generating a good spark have been handled, it's up to the plug to produce a strong spark. Just for the record, in 99 cases out of 100, the easier it is to fire the plug, the less energy is dissipated in the working part of the spark in the gap. If you want to produce a big healthy spark, then big, healthy gaps are the way to go.
But big gaps have a much higher initial resistance, so to avoid somewhere elsewhere instead of across the plug gap, cables with above-average insulation are needed. In some of my engines, I have used gaps as large as 0.070 inch to good effect, but that takes getting everything just right, For most purposes, 0.050 to 0.055 is likely to be less problematic and will almost certainly realize 95 percent of the improvement possible.
Another piece of the puzzle of maximizing the effectiveness of the plugs' ignition ability is the form of the electrode tip. I think I can say with reasonable confidence that multi-electrode plugs do nothing for ignition quality that cannot be achieved as well or even better with a single electrode. (Probably the the principle asset to multi-electrodes is their longer life and reduced emissions toward what would be the end of a single electrode plug's life.)
First, try to use non-resistor type plugs-the right resistance should be in the cable. Next, make sure that the plug is as cold as the engine will tolerate without plug fouling. Here, chassis dyno tests show that dropping to one heat range cooler than the manufacterer recommends is often a good move.
The next aspect to deal with is the the plug-side electrode. You do not want the side electrode to span the center electrode. When viewed looking end on, the side electrode should, at most, only span over about 20 percent of the the center electrode. For what it's worth, most of Autolite's race plugs-$1.88 apiece at AutoZone-come out of the box this way and only need the corners rounded off as shown in the diagram below.

Obviously I can't type up the diagram, but it essentially shows a spark plug with a squared-off tip, and then another one with the tip's corners being rounded off. That is what needs to be done to your plugs.

Here is the caption below the diagram, which I also found helpful:

A big plug gap and a more optimally shaped plug tip can aid charge ignition to the extent that the charge burns faster and more completely. This often can mean that the ignition timing may need to be retarded by the odd degree or so for best results.

Phew, so there you have it from an expert who's been racing since 1958, and is also Applied Performance Sciences Director at UNC Charlotte.

[A20A1]

I would go DIS and get some good coils

With a Dizzy setup you'll probably have to worry about extra wear the higher output coil could put on the contact points. More maintenance.

[DDRaptor]

wow. ok that's a lot to read. um ok. So i know i need new wires, but theres so many choieces and some are really up therre in $$$. and plus what plug should i change too cause i'm already using NGK v-power.

[speedpenguin]

Well he actually suggested a plug to use right in there... But the ones you have should work fine, as long as they are resistorless. Just follow the instructions he laid down. Gap them, round off the tips, etc.

As for cables, any wire-wound cables will work, just read the specs and see if they match up to what you are looking for.

[MessyHonda]

i thinking when i get some money il get a MSD ignition box with a 6k rev limiter chip cuz i dont want to blow up my engine.


p.s. CKE you ignition FREAK