I didn't think they used sand anymore on blocks because of the reason you mentioned. I thought it was always glass beadsthat machinists use nowadays. In any case, better safe than sorry. So, a brake cleaning is definitely in order. That whip is going to be so smooth when you git er all done.
Guyhatesmycar is correct with the machining, when you get the block back from the machine shop. YOU need to clean the piston bores with soapy water & so forth with the block, then use BrakeKleen on the cylinder bores untill there is no evidence of fine metal particals. Cleaning is so important in a good rebuild outcome, along with good & accurate blueprinting.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 12-06-2006 at 09:47 PM.
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Oh no I agree. I for sure will be cleaning it myself. All I was saying is that it wasn't sandblasted. I'm sure under that coat of paint is a greasey-looking iron block.
I think they probably hot tanked your block. That gets the grime and crap off the metal, but the block itself may still be discolored and all. They have some industrial shit at the machine shop to clean your engine, no matter how filthy the blcok is. What shape are the oil pan and valve cover in cosmetic-wise??
Ddude is right. Even after a hone, the cylinders have to be washed out. I prefer to flip the block upside down and flush with brakekleen until it runs clear from each pot. Then test by wiping each cylinder with a white cloth, there should be no trace of residue left. Remember to oil all machined surfaces for assembly or if they are being left for awhile.
Glass bead is used because sand can cause silicosis. strange, isn't glass just vitrified silica?
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Update bitches. I finally began assembling this engine. Last night I cleaned the crap out of everything. Cleaned all the oil passages, which by the way were freakin dirty as hell even after getting them back from the machine shop.
Man, I spent all day reading stuff and checking clearances. It was definitely a learning experience.
Basically, I got all the crank beariings in and cleaned and torqued down. Then I started checking all the rod bearing clearances with plastigauge. Turns out I think that the very last freakin bearings are not tight enough. I'm going to post another thread on this, anywho here are the pics. As soon as I get the right bearing for the last rod, the bottom end will be done.
Looking good!
Now i need you to come down and do that to my LX
2004-2011?
Teh hotness. Looks great!
man is this guy smartOriginally Posted by Cheeseburger
Hum John That Looks Very Familer For Some Reason. What Shop Did The Work?
Haha, yeah thats almost the same motor that's in your car. I had a local shop near downtwon do the work (don't wanna talk shit about them, they're nice guys). But they dropped the ball on another project of mine, so I'm taking the remainder to Britco Racing Engines down in Chehalis or Centraia, one of those places.
x2 & fixed
Oh wow. I guess I never updated this thread and told you guys what happened. I bought that crank kit off eGay for $100. It came with a crank and +0.25 oversized bearings. Turns out that when I put in the Plastigauge, it showed that the crank journals are all tapered, and sized wrong. Some of the clearances are too tight, and some too loose. I still haven't gotten one of my cranks into the shop to get turned and re-hardened. Just been busy with lots of other things. Goal is to have this puppy running at the end of September!
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