Damper fork bolt

**CARBurn** · 09-01-2002, 08:37 PM

I was removing my stock suspension today, to install an aftermarket suspension, when I broke the damper fork pinch bolt on the front left. Any advice on what I can do to get the stud that is still in the damper fork out?

Any help would be appreciated...

**Jims 86LXI HB** · 09-02-2002, 07:34 AM

I've heard of some guys hammering it out with a, I believe, a punch. I've also seen talk of the bushing coming out to. I think either pos carb (eric) or yk86 (yasu) have had to do what your talking about. I'd sent them a pm and ask them about what they did so sure if I were you.

**Grant2k** · 09-02-2002, 09:37 AM

there are drill bits you can buy for removing broken bolts.

**CARBurn** · 09-02-2002, 12:07 PM

Thanks Jim

Grant2k, where?

I was told to drill a hole in the stud and either pull it out with a "special tool" or screw it with a screw driver. Any suggestions on these techniques?

**Grant2k** · 09-02-2002, 01:16 PM

i beleive that the bit sort of drills in and then bites the stud and unscrews it, or alows you to unscrew it. You should be able to get it at an autopars store or hardwhere store. The bolt that gave me trouble was the one that held the fork to the lower control arm. I had to just drill out the center and then cut it between the arm and fork. it sucked real bad. then i had to get the frozen bolt out of the frozen bushing. if you can find this tool your lucky. i didn't even look for one. but your bolt shouldn't be that hard because it shouldn't be frozen, althouh it sounds like it is. The easiest way to work on it would be by trying to get the shock and fork off the car so that you can work on the floor of on a bench. working under the car sucks.

**YK86** · 09-02-2002, 01:58 PM

This is for the bolt that tightens the fork assembly around the bottom of the strut right?? If the head broke off, then a screw/bolt extractor probably isn't going to work. When the head breaks off, the screw extractor usually ends up breaking inside the bolt too every time I tried so I wouldn't waste my money on a set. I would drill out the bolt to get the fork off the strut and pick up one from the junkyard. That way, you get the bolt you need with it too.

**YK86** · 09-02-2002, 02:00 PM

If you meant where the fork attaches to the lower arm, you need to grind off the bolts inbetween the fork and the arm. You then drill out the old bushing or take the whole lower arm off and get it pressed out.

**bigpoppa88** · 09-02-2002, 05:08 PM

Don't waste your time with any extractor, that bolt is cemented in there. I just changed mine and although the head didn't break off, the splines in the bolt were ceased into the rubber bushing. I eventually got it out with my air hammer/chisel, just put a flat ended "chisel" and punched it out.....worked for me.

**CARBurn** · 09-02-2002, 05:13 PM

Thanks Grant2k and Yk86.

So Yk86, the bolt I am talking about it the one than holds the strut. So you suggest just drilling the bolt out to loosen the strut and go get another one from a junkyard? Guess I'll try that tomorrow.

Question in the Haynes manual, it suggests to buy a new pinch bolt, has anyone ever just bought a bolt and how much can it cost?

Bought some anti seize compound, so when I install everything back, I won't run into these problems in the future, should I need to change the suspension again.

***marc49*** · 09-02-2002, 06:57 PM

that's the crappy thing about having older cars. Parts have been on our cars longer and like to "stay" on our cars even when we want to remove them

Does extreme climates or climate changes have anything to do with the tendency of a bolt being frozen or something being almost impossible to remove? I would assume it does, but I could be wrong..

**YK86** · 09-02-2002, 07:14 PM

I think it's just the 16 years of water, road grime, and salt (in my case) that make most of the parts stuck in there pretty good.
I would just grab a new fork from the junkyard. Probably about $5-$20 depending on where you go. Also, I have never used a new pinch fork bolt.

**CARBurn** · 09-02-2002, 07:21 PM

Funny thing is the right side came out fine after I tapped it with a hammer a couple of times before attempting to remove it.

Now all I have to do is get a good used left damper fork from the junk yard.

**Grant2k** · 09-03-2002, 03:46 AM

i didn't need that bolt but i did need new control are bolts. i bought them from Honda and they were ~$12 front and $8 rear. Dealers like to rip you off.

**anchovies** · 09-03-2002, 11:56 AM

i hate stripped bolts and broken ones also
:pissed:

**Grant2k** · 09-03-2002, 05:26 PM

yeah, they piss me off.

**Jims 86LXI HB** · 09-03-2002, 09:46 PM

Jezz, I'm glad my car came from a mild climate. None of my bolts gave me trouble. The worst thing was that the front strut's didn't want to slip into the damper fork. I just took a old wrench and hammered it into the gap and bent it wider, hey it worked:p I think the dryer the climate your in, the less likely you'll experience problems like these. Least that's what I see.

**Grant2k** · 09-04-2002, 06:30 AM

definitly.

**markmdz89hatch** · 09-04-2002, 07:08 AM

same thing happened to me with that same bolt, but on the passenger side. The damn bolt just spins and spins, but does hold the fork tight to the base of the strut, so until I get to the j/y to pick up a new one, I suppose it'll do for now. Just won't be too fun getting that biatch off now that it's stripped and stuck on.

Guess it'll be time to break out that trust 'ol rubber mallet.

**SQ is the SQUAD** · 09-04-2002, 06:33 PM

i got to cut both bolts that hold my wishbone to my control arm cuz they froze. how much does that bushing cost cuz i ripped mine trying to get the bolt out, what is that bushing called

**Grant2k** · 09-05-2002, 06:08 AM

i got my bushing through work for like $10 or something, but that is the price the store pays with no mark up. from an auto parts store it would probably be twice that.