Auto Tranny does not upshift at all. ATF additive made it worse?

[superdesi]

Hey guys,

My brother's automatic 1989 Accord with 223K miles was given to me. Recently the tranny started slipping. With the shift selector in "D4" (D4 indicator does not light up on the dash), the car remained in 1st gear throughout the RPM's. However, when put in "D3" it shifts through the gears but not that great. Reverse works. The CEL is not on, however I pulled "Code 13" for Atmospheric / Barometric Pressure Sensor.

I adjusted the throttle cable and the transmission throttle control cable to have no play but the problem remains. Tranny oil is full and was replaced over in May 2006 when the car had 208K miles.

Yesterday, I added a half bottle of Lubegard and immediately D4 came back and I was able to upshift though there was still some slippage in 4th gear. I was happy cause I thought I had a temporary fix. But then the next morning, the car now did not upshift in D4 or D3 (it remains in 1st gear).

So did the additive destroy everything? Could you perhaps point me in a direction of what else I should look at?

Thanks.

[shepherd79]

well probably your tranny is dead for sure. when they start slipping nothing will cure the problem.
start looking for a replacement tranny.

[superdesi]

I think that additive didn't agree with the tranny at all. Do you think if I drained and refilled with Honda ATF-Z1 , could that make this hooptie alive again?

[MessyHonda]

I think that additive didn't agree with the tranny at all. Do you think if I drained and refilled with Honda ATF-Z1 , could that make this hooptie alive again?

its worth a try...but dont hope on it...

[superdesi]

Today, I decided to give it a shot. I got 3 bottles of Honda fluid ($5.16/quart) and drained and refilled the tranny. The old fluid (only 15K miles old) seemed pretty dark and brown. The magnet definately had a lot of filings attached.

I took it for a spin afterwards and it seemed to have made an improvement. It's now shifting at the proper RPM's and pretty smooth (both in D4 and D3). I just can't D4 to light up on the dash. However, I'll have to see how long I can go on like this

[Vanilla Sky]

sounds like burnt fluid. dark = burnt. you may be able to drive fine on your trans for a while, but as has already been stated, you should look for a replacement. when you replace the trans, you should add an aftermarket cooler. these transmissions are cooled by a simple pass through the radiator, which is supposed to keep the trans at a constant temp, but it just seems to help heat up the engine, and seems to hasten the failure of the transmission.

the D4 light sounds like the light is bad in the console. i would't really worry about it. if you wanted to fix it, you have to pull the gauge cluster out to replace the bulb. i'd also be willing to bet that your CEL has a bad or removed bulb. that's one i'd personally worry about, but i know lots of people that take them out. i'm not recommending that anyone takes out their CEL bulb to pass inspection, but it happens. replace the bulb and go on.

[shepherd79]

i am glad it worked.
you can try to do a few more times and get as much old oil out as possible.
but since you said that magnet had some shavings, well it may be on the last leg.

[HondaBoy]

replacing the 3 quarts or so that i was able to drain from my trans and replaced with honda atf helped a lot. i think i may do that again. the atf in hondas is synthetic and sometimes doesnt mix with other additives or fluids, or so i was told. guess its true. thats wierd how a change in viscosity of tranny fluids can affect it so much.

[superdesi]

replacing the 3 quarts or so that i was able to drain from my trans and replaced with honda atf helped a lot. i think i may do that again. the atf in hondas is synthetic and sometimes doesnt mix with other additives or fluids, or so i was told. guess its true. thats wierd how a change in viscosity of tranny fluids can affect it so much.

I'm gonna have to totally agree with you. At first I was going to replace the fluid with Castrol Dexron III and a bottle of Lubegard. But then I read the post where people say that Hondas should only be filled with Honda ATF and that's when I purchased 6 bottles from the dealership.

I drove it again today and there is absolutely no slippage at any RPM. I am definately going to drain and refill again in about 2 or three weeks. Most of all, thanks to all the people on this board (especially those who replied to my thread) who helped me out and gave hope and prevented me from junking my Accord.

[w261w261]

While you're at it, buy a big bottle of Techron (injector cleaner) and throw it in the gas tank when you fill up. Don't get another brand, Techron is the best. Also, check out the color of the radiator coolant, if it's brownish, then flush it out and refill with new. Got to keep that baby runnin' now that its had a rebirth! And speaking of coolant, note that the coolant recovery bottle is way the hell down there, and probably dirty on the inside so it's hard to see the coolant level. I took out the battery, then the battery tray, then removed the bottle and cleaned it out. That way it won't be such a pain to check the coolant level, you won't be tempted to "do it another time," and you won't overheat it and warp the head. BTW, if the idle RPM's start moving around, that's often an early warning that the coolant is low. What's happened is the bottle has emptied, and air bubbles have gotten into the system. A bubble gets to the fast idle valve, which translates to a funny idle.
The fast idle valve is served by those little coolant hoses over by the thermostat. Also at this point you should learn how to bleed the system of air, using the bleed valve by the thermostat.

Good luck with the "new" 3G.

[2oodoor]

i am glad it worked.
you can try to do a few more times and get as much old oil out as possible.
but since you said that magnet had some shavings, well it may be on the last leg.

This transmission supposedly only has about 2300 miles on it, refering to the thread start. This was also posted previosley ,I beleive, early in the month by Superdesi.. I could be mistaken.I asked to define slippage, and when. It is strange about the indicator, you see that in newer models with external shift solenoids. I did not think there are any electronic contols in the 89.. wierd....The actual shifter linkage hardware may need to be checked too.

Good idea to run good fuel injection cleaner, I guess techron is the best available to public, it is good. I use BG44K, but it is mostley only commercialy available.

[shepherd79]

i never liked techron shit.
I always use B12 or Seafoam. It works like a charm.

[MessyHonda]

i have used fuel aditives....so far seafoam has worked the best...with noticeable results right after

[2oodoor]

i have used fuel aditives....so far seafoam has worked the best...with noticeable results right after

that is why I like the Bg product 44k , you feel it right away and for a while. Ive never actually used techron, I making the assumption that the kind you buy at the store is relativley pure as they advertise. Seafoam and Lucas are the other ones that really work.

Superdesi, you should find out about the warrenty on that tranny, even if your not the owner at the time. Did they give you any paperwork when you bought the car? That indicator light , do you have a B series motor in that car, factory?
I may have misread what you meant about the tran, was it just serviced or was it rebuilt at 208,000

[HondaBoy]

yes, Berryman B12 is the shit. my grandma put diesel in her car in '02 when it was new. ran like shit. put a full bottle of B12 and cleared it up. so it works well for disolving foreign crap from the fuel system. i've used it in my 3gee a few times and works pretty well.

[superdesi]

This transmission supposedly only has about 2300 miles on it, refering to the thread start. This was also posted previosley ,I beleive, early in the month by Superdesi.. I could be mistaken.I asked to define slippage, and when. It is strange about the indicator, you see that in newer models with external shift solenoids. I did not think there are any electronic contols in the 89.. wierd....The actual shifter linkage hardware may need to be checked too.
Good idea to run good fuel injection cleaner, I guess techron is the best available to public, it is good. I use BG44K, but it is mostley only commercialy available.

Roodoo, the tranny is factory original and has 223K miles on it (223,000) not 2300. The last transmission service was done 15K (15,000) miles ago. When I stated it was slipping, that meant that I would start out at light and the car would remain in 1st gear and not upshift (therefore sending the RPM's in the 4K to 5K range).

But so far, all is well at the moment. The Honda fluid has seemed to help a lot.

[2oodoor]

Roodoo, the tranny is factory original and has 223K miles on it (223,000) not 2300. The last transmission service was done 15K (15,000) miles ago. When I stated it was slipping, that meant that I would start out at light and the car would remain in 1st gear and not upshift (therefore sending the RPM's in the 4K to 5K range).
But so far, all is well at the moment. The Honda fluid has seemed to help a lot.

Ok, well yea that is not what I would consider slipping, but just not shifting, a control issue not a drive app issue as to the transmission. AS you worded your first post on this thread , it sort reads like you say the transimission was done, at 208000 miles. I comprehended it as you meant rebuilt. I already posted I may have misunderstood what you said. even so, Im glad your all good to go now

[POS carb]

usually if the transmission will not shift up it is because there is enough crap (usually metal shavings) to score/jam the valves, there are no serviceable parts on the outside (except the TV cable of course). You can only change the filter by taking the transmission apart (belive me, I did it, twice)

Changing the fluids helped keep it alive another 2 weeks. The car would not upshift unless the selector was moved to D2 (D2 is 2nd gear ONLY, no 1st, good for testing) and it would hesitate going into reverse when cold.
I opened it up, the 2nd/4th gear clutch housing was broken and the clutches were worn very ugly. a few of the bearings broke and were just being held in place by the casing.
I ended up running on the rebuild for a year before it died again. Replaced it with a 5sp (damn DX/LX spec) from the u-pull junker, I wish I had done it sooner ($)

If it keeps locking in 1st gear you know what to do. I hope it keeps running for you!

Good luck!

[KrazyKlown]

Mine does this too. In fact all late 80's automatic Honda's do this. Mine slips when cold from 2nd to 3rd and 4th and won't shift unless I ease off it a bit. But when its warmed up.....shifts fine. (shrugging shoulders). I just got it so I guess a tranny fluid change is in order...Honda fluid of course since it made Superdesi's run better.

[HondaBoy]

i think its mainly because of being fully hydrolic? i notice this too on other hondas with hydrolicly controlled transmissions.