Yeh I am trying to get down there and drop it off. We got a huge push at work so I have been putting in 13hr days so far this week.
Yeh I am trying to get down there and drop it off. We got a huge push at work so I have been putting in 13hr days so far this week.
un-motivated!
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3GR
Ah yea.. such is the way. It's usually a hassle trying to get something done during the day with work always taking up all your time.
Dropped it off today. Hoping for the best.
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So after careful inspection of the crank. I realized there were marks on the flywheel. I am pretty sure it was the clutch. So when I installed the new clutch, pressure plate, and fly wheel the clutch would not disengage. So I had to over adjust it to disengage. I took it right to the line of engagement. There was constant pressure on the crank causing the wear of the bearings. I was told it was normal until the clutch was broken in. So where I am at now is figuring out a way to get more movement from the pedal to the trans. I did a auto to manual swap. The pedal always felt weird. Like there was not enough movement.
Ideas?
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Hmm that's curious..
I am wondering what is causing it to be constantly engaged? There has to be pressure applied to the lever to engage it so are you getting full movement on that? Are you using a stock clutch cable or the integra one? As far as I recall it's a pretty straight forward system so something doesn't sound quite right. How long as the clutch been installed? Did you ever use a stock type clutch after your 5 speed swap? Or did you go straight to a higher rated clutch right away? I am just curious to know if you noticed any difference or if it's just different since you installed the new clutch.
Over adjustment in order for it to fully disenguage. I have the light weight flywheel, clutchnet red pressure plate and 6 puck clutch. I don't remember if I installed a pedal assembly out of a coupe or hatch. I do know that it doesn't feel fluid. Like a factory 5 speed car would. I am also using the stock cable. I spoke to Tim and Josh and we all feel that something is not right with the pedal assembly. It's like there is not enough mechanical movement. We have ruled out cable stretch. If it were to stretch it would remain at a longer lenth still enabling you to adjust that out as long as you still have adjustment. A steel cable would just get longer, and not act like a rubber band and contract. It seems like there's 3/8" to 1/2" of adjustment on the cable from 1/8" of free play in order for it to disengage.
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
With that being said.. I guess it's time you take a closer look at the pedal assembly and see what's up? That is a nightmare of a job so maybe you can see if everything is working without pulling it out of the car.. although I guess you'd have to if you have to swap it out for another one. I also really don't see a logical reason why the coupe or hatch versions would be different but it's possible.
Let use know what you find on inspection!
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Oh right, I forgot you were a sedan, hmmm. I still don't know why, I think you'd have to have them side by side to tell, maybe someone on here has experience with that? Maybe the boys down in NZ swapping trannys out daily have some input.
What work have you specified to be done at the machine shop? Was there more damage than you first though?
I went with fresh crank and block.
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
Why didn't you just ask. You can look to see what people have done DIY style for ef civic's or here's some links the would work. As I've been looking deeper in to the A2B Trans plate I thought this would be something nice to upgraded
Hush Performance — CABLE TO HYDRO CONVERSION EF and DA
Innovative D/B/H/K-series Cable to Hydro Trans Conversion - JDM Honda Parts USA
I'll keep that in mind. The prices are good too.
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That's how to get more room in a 3g.
Now I am assuming you know why that piece of three eighths inch plate is sandwiched between the bushings. I am having a hard time believing that it's single heim joint on the lower control arm will be of any use. I really do not think that Honda got it wrong.
Last edited by 89T; 06-29-2015 at 05:28 PM.
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
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Whoa man, are you going to get the same bar as Tim?
That pipe looks like it's 6" from here haha, holy!
What's the word from the machine shop?
Messy is working with innovative to have them make him one
So far the head needs exhaust valve guides. Intake guides look dam near new. Nothing more, there having trouble getting the rings. There is no build stamp on the pistons. The ram air pipe is 4 inch. I am moving everything forward so I'll make my own. So, if you look at the stock bar, it appears that it is very similar to a torsion bar. If you are familiar with it. The bar is bendable. Perhaps a solid bar would offer an upgrade but the thing that has my interest is the solid 2 point mount on the lower control arm. Which means that it would limit the twist of the lower control arm. I don't see that happening with a single point "swivel " heim joint. Thoughts?
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someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
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Please note that if you move the mounting point forward, you will also have to move it outward in order to retain the correct suspension geometry.
Last edited by 89T; 06-30-2015 at 03:55 AM.
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
Tow hook.
Cross bar
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someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
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I'll leave this here.
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
Now you order heim joints and tabs.![]()
Last edited by 89T; 07-05-2015 at 12:26 PM.
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
Nice. I guess it would be a little late to tell you the I dropped off a cross member to innovative on Friday so they can make us a tbar lol. Messy had been doing the leg work in it just happened to be going near there shop this weekend
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