I have searched and found a thread that explains this, but i still haven't fully understood this and the pics provided are down. Where exactly should i put the blue sealant when putting the new water pump in?
I have searched and found a thread that explains this, but i still haven't fully understood this and the pics provided are down. Where exactly should i put the blue sealant when putting the new water pump in?
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
As per the shop manual, the water pump does NOT require sealant to be installed.
3axap.
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Originally Posted by '89AccordLX(Rus)
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Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
owned my big bro! LOL....
nope no blue stuff just good ol fashion muscle
oh and have fun with that thing im not looking forward to ever having to do that job again
yeah i think i just used the water pump gasket no sealent.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Originally Posted by Cheeseburger
that is just too funny.
it has o-ring so you don't need blue sealant.
Alex.
why? as cars go this one is not THAT bad to change the water pump inOriginally Posted by ghettogeddy
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
It wasn't bad at all. If you pop off the top timing belt cover, you'll be able to pull away the lower cover enough to slip the pump in with not much effort. Took all of 30 seconds to do that. Toughest part is keeping the o-ring in place as you maneuver it in. Now we are faced with a snapped bolt in the thermostat housingGonna have to pull that out...why would Honda design the EGR pipe so that it blocks the lower nut for the housing? :'(
3axap.
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As a matter of course, we add a thin coating of ultra grey sealant to water pump gaskets. It's easy, you don't need more than a pea sized amount, and it ensures that you don't have any leaks, even with a weak gasket. But guys, use ultra grey, not blue or black silicone. It works WAY better on aluminum (like water pumps) and is nearly identical to Hondabond. Permatex makes it, and it's available at most parts stores. Not Walmart though. I was in the Automotive isle one time and the clerk was trying to sell some old guy on the stuff they had... So I butted in an told they guy that he really wanted ultra grey instead. And the clerk just looked at me like I crapped on his shoe.
Visit us at www.valleyspecialists.com for all of your Honda and Acura Parts and Service needs!
To late now, the pump and belts are on. I torqued everything down to 9ft lbs as the shop manual said. So it shouldn't leak. I'm just waiting for my thermostat housing to come in.Originally Posted by Kabuki
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
no your right i guess im not as woried as a was my 89 only has 60k on the motor and i already did the pump on the 88 so i prolly wont have to do it again unless i get a new 3gOriginally Posted by AccordEpicenter
I only had a problem with the bolt under the water pump. Everything else was very simple and straight forward to the shop manual.Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
ya thats the one bolt i had trouble with to it came out easy but putting it back wasent fun at all, that and the fact that it was dark out and all i had was a drop light lol
I just had a hard time getting it out and getting a torque wrench in that area. Putting it back in was easy, that is if you stick your arm into that area with the palm of your hand facing the pumpOriginally Posted by ghettogeddy
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Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
yeah when tommy gave me the engine i took off the water pump and it looked it was leaking from some pin hole....i just replaced it just to make sure my engine would not over heat.Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
that pin hole is there to let water out lol but only if the gasket goes bad i beliveOriginally Posted by MessyHonda
yeah i havent checked mine yet..it works fine since its new...il check the whole some day.Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Or if the bearing is worn down, which is a sign to replace the pump.Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
The water pump gasket doesn't need any kind of silicone, but a real thin layer of RTV doesn't hurt. (used it on my rebuild). Sort of a thing you do when you mess with motors on a regular basis. Anyhow, sometimes you have to pay attention to which bolts need a sealer too.
The hole on the water pump is called a "weep hole", is lets you know when the water pump bearing is gone & time to replace it while it starts leaking.
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There was coolant leaking on the water pump side of the engine and i heard a squeaking noise after i noticed the leak. And it was wet around the pump, well actually under it. Now im just waiting for the thermostat housing to come in the mail because the old one, well i couldn't get the bolt out.Originally Posted by ddude2uc
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
You can hacksaw the bolt off square even. Might have to use the a hacksaw blade. Then get a punch, hit the bolt in the middle (& I mean middle)Originally Posted by russiankid
After hitting the bolt in the middle, take a drill bit (about 1/8" bit) on a drill & drill into the bolt about 1/4". Take a bolt extractor, which has threads that bite into the bolt & turn it out. If that don't work, you might need to use a reverse drill bit. If that don't work, you will then need to drill & tap it out using a helicoil.
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too late he is already geting a new one.Originally Posted by ddude2uc
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
New bolt? Can't put one in if you can't get the old one out..Originally Posted by MessyHonda
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new housing....i believeOriginally Posted by ddude2uc
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
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