Engine Assembly Question

[Pico]

I'm getting ready to reassemble my engine that I just got back from the machinist, my buddy is helping me out and he knows what he's doing but as for me this is the first time I've put together an engine from the the whole disassembled process.
Any tips on what kind of gasket sealer to use and the type of oil to use for the break in period.

Also I'm thinking of running a oil pressure guage and amperage guage, do you think it's overkill or a good idea, I want this motor to last a long time and I really want to keep a good eye on how it running

Chime in and give me your tips and opinions,I'm gonna be getting started on this project in the next few days or so and I want you're ideas.
Thanks
Picopop

[A18A]

i was told not to use any gasket sealing stuff when i put my new head gasket on, just thought i'd share that

[Pico]

Thanks OD I've heard that before about the headgasket, but what about the other gaskets, I dont want to use silicone on the motor unless I have too.

[azazel_18_2]

Depends if you are doing a stock build. I went high compression and had problems with headgasket sealing. I bought some high temp HondaBond. Let me tell you it is some good stuff. I used it once for selaing aluminum to aluminum parts. I bolted it together then later tried to get it apart. I had to take a torch to it for it to come apart. I used the Honda Bond on my head gasket and never had a problem with leaks. I worried about it not coming apart after I did this so for the fun of it I ripped the head off and it wasn't bad at all. The gasket will just come apart. If you do use HondaBond just use a very thin film. Also, use HondaBond or silicone only on the corners and ends of the oil pan gasket otherwise it will cause gasket damage and one hell of an oil leak. The more gauges the better I would say especially the oil pressure gauge. An idiot light is prety much no good. I had a car that just had an idiot light and as soon as the oil pressure light came up the engine locked up. NICE!! I used King Rod bearings. I like them because they are bi-metal design instead of tri-metal design. B18 Rod bearings will work. There really isn't much to rebuilding one of these engines just make sure your bore is in spec and ALWAYS check bearing clearances with some plastigauge.

[2oodoor]

I used a product called Hi-tack from permatex, to assemble things with gaskets. Even the head gasket, I used a little bit on the corners away from cylinder sealing surfaces to hold the gasket in place while I slid the head on. You also have dowel pins there to hold the head. Make sure you replace all o-rings under the head. Do not use Hi tack on o-rings, just a little oil (very little) to help slide them in place without getting them twisted.
Hi tack never really sets up hard, does not actually build up much or create any disturbance to sensors, but it does set up enough to handle the part. Use it sparingly, dont glob it on, It comes with brush inside the top.
It works as thread locker too,
On the head gasket on cyl sealing surfaces , it is good to use Permatex Copper Coat, it makes everything seal good and helps it to maintain in case you shut the engine down hot, copper coat will increase your odds against blowing the gasket.

[azazel_18_2]

Also, do not buy the cheap head gasket set on EBAY. The head gasket is junk and will not last. Buy either a Honda or FelPro Head gasket. The felpro is pretty damn sturdy.

[SteveDX89]

Only use gasket sealer on places where the manual tells you to. Everywhere else just wipe the surface really well, even using rubbing alcohol to clean it real well if you want. And make sure you use the proper torque for any areas where gaskets are. Too little and they leak, too much and you could push them out of position. Don't use synthetic oil during the break in. Regular oil with whatever viscosity the manual calls for, 10W-30 if I remember correctly. An oil pressure gauge is an excellent idea. Amperage isn't really as crucial but it wouldn't hurt.

[2oodoor]

Never heard of HONDA BOND. that sounds like some good stuff.
Having an Exhaust temperture guage is very handy too when you start tuning your engine in after modifications, It helps tell you if your too lean,and it helps you from losing a gasket by shutting the car down too hot. If you ever turbo or squirt you will need to learn not to shut it down hot, drive around the corner to cool her down first.

[bobafett]

for break in oil my shop reccomended 'non detergant' oil... It was hard to find but GI Joes had it for a good price. The only stuff I could find said 'NOT FOR USE ON MOTOR BREAK INS' but I only ready the fine print 160 miles into my break in... so I am going to just use normal 10w30 until about 1500 miles, at which point i will switch to a full synthetic.

+1 on the EGT gauge, mine scares the shit out of me!

[guaynabo89]

oil pressure and volt gause wont be bad since I beleive these cars should have come with these cars anyway. if your friend knows how to che3ck clearences for the bearings I say go rigt ahead. if n ot take it back to someone who can. as far as the gaskets Im with steve. oly put silicone or other sealens were instructed to by the manual.

and of course use regular oil for the break in and change after the first 100 miles and then at 1500 just to make sure if there were anysmall filings in the motor you get them out before they damage something or block a passage etc. When you first turn on a motor I think you are supposed to run it at 2500-3000 rpm for like 20-25 minutes and then turn off and let cool down before turning on again. I dont remember if you are supposed to changed the oil after that step or not.

Im pretty sure someone else can chime in on that one about how exactly its supposed to be done.

[MessyHonda]

Also, do not buy the cheap head gasket set on EBAY. The head gasket is junk and will not last. Buy either a Honda or FelPro Head gasket. The felpro is pretty damn sturdy.

i got a ebay gasket on my car...i put 3.5k on it...i rev the piss shit out of it..and it still holds.

[BITESIZE]

Just take your time when rebuilding it! That's my 2 cents.

[Oldblueaccord]

I would say no to an amp guage there just to risky in car. Remeber its a shunt so all amps(power) has to go thru that guage to be accurite. I'd use a volt guage its much safer and easier to hook up it can be any where in the ciurcuit.

I got a couple 70's cars that have amp guages I can tell you some stories. Every car now i just run a large guage wire from the alt. to the battery direct. Oh and carry a fire extingusher.

other thing I can add is I use STP on like the cam for break in it just my personal preferance. Im not sure how you could prime the motor for oil pressure before start up beside cranking it over alot.


wp

[shepherd79]

i would use special assembly lube. it is available at any auto parts stores.
aslo, use regular MObil motor oil. 10w30 or 10w40 will do find. change it after 100, 500, and 1500 miles. and you should be all set after that.
use high quality oil filters. get mobil 1 or Bosch.

[russiankid]

i would use special assembly lube. it is available at any auto parts stores.
aslo, use regular MObil motor oil. 10w30 or 10w40 will do find. change it after 100, 500, and 1500 miles. and you should be all set after that.
use high quality oil filters. get mobil 1 or Bosch.

I second the Mobile oil filters. When i put that in my car, valve knocks under load stopped. And the engine runs so much smoother.

[AccordEpicenter]

Only use gasket sealer on places where the manual tells you to. Everywhere else just wipe the surface really well, even using rubbing alcohol to clean it real well if you want. And make sure you use the proper torque for any areas where gaskets are. Too little and they leak, too much and you could push them out of position. Don't use synthetic oil during the break in. Regular oil with whatever viscosity the manual calls for, 10W-30 if I remember correctly. An oil pressure gauge is an excellent idea. Amperage isn't really as crucial but it wouldn't hurt.

Yes oil pressure gauge is a VERY good idea. Run 10w30 conventional and dump it after 50-100 miles. Dont use hondabond on the headgasket, if its a stock honda headgasket, install it dry. If you insist on using sealer, use copper coat. On honda gaskets you can usually install them without RTV but if you must use RTV use hondabond, but a VERY VERY light coat. I cant stress light enough

[guaynabo89]

use petroleum jelly to prime the oil pump. Just openup the back plate and pack it inthere all the way to the back.

This will help the pump pull in oil on its first run and if you can run a drill or somethig on it or just crank the engine with no fuel spark to get oil in the pump and flowing through the motor

[Pico]

Thanks everyone for the pointers, the gasket set I got is Felpro and looks like I'm going to use hondabond on the gaskets.
As far as the engine goes it's just a mild rebuild std. rods and mains, the block was bored out to 20 over.
Thanks again everyone

[Cheeseburger]

good luck maing!

[MessyHonda]

Thanks everyone for the pointers, the gasket set I got is Felpro and looks like I'm going to use hondabond on the gaskets.
As far as the engine goes it's just a mild rebuild std. rods and mains, the block was bored out to 20 over.
Thanks again everyone

you going to get a cam for it?

[88Accord-DX]

Definetly get some engine lube for your rod & main bearing installation. Check the end gap on rings in the piston bore for good clearances. Submerge the oil pump in oil to prime it. Dip the head bolts in fresh clean oil & make sure the holes are clean. Use a torque wrench on them. 22 ft lbs then 49 ft lbs. Put fresh oil in cylinder bores before driving piston in. Space the end gaps correctly on the piston.
Don't get the rod caps mixed up & make sure they are installed exactly as they came off. Plastigauge all your rod & main bearings & turn the crank if your out of tolerance. Use regular oil, change at 100,500,1000-1500 miles. The break in part people do different. Most people go up to 50 mph & come down to 15 mph for about 5 times back & forth for the intial run. (varies with that)

Just some of the main points there. Good luck & post them pics too!!

[Pico]

you going to get a cam for it?

Not sure yet I gotta a little bit of time to think it over

[Cheeseburger]

do it do it do it!

[MessyHonda]

Not sure yet I gotta a little bit of time to think it over

yeah they are cheap...might as well...get a delta 272 or a colt stage 1

[2oodoor]

Thanks everyone for the pointers, the gasket set I got is Felpro and looks like I'm going to use hondabond on the gaskets.
As far as the engine goes it's just a mild rebuild std. rods and mains, the block was bored out to 20 over.
Thanks again everyone

mains and rods with 20 over is not a mild rebuild in my book. good luck and there is some good advice on this thread guys.

I remember now about amp guages, even on idiot lights, that was a really hot connection prone to trouble. Voltmeter should suffice for charging monitoring. Use an amp probe , inductive (does not pierce or touch wiring) for occasional testing.