dang, sorry you had that trouble, at least you are not totaly out your moola.
I took that part off my kelkien carb too and put it on the weber, it took some dremel work and a steel pop rivet to keep it indexed.
An idea for hardware that may help you is golf cart supply, cable barrels that you can adjust the position, and make your own cable to work with that piece as well. Ezgo two stroke carts used cable setups similar to these 3rd gens.
wow nice lost
so how you going to do the air box? somthing like what my volvo has
or the other kind they got for them...
I'm going to build something that will allow me to connect two inch silicone hoses to them,thats the same aircraft hose as whats on my hot air intake tube. those will pull air from my existing air cleaner I built,this will prevent me from having to move the air cleaner,the breather hose,and a bunch of other stuff. I'm looking at mandrel bent exaust bends in stailnless right now for the bend. it's kind of hard to explain, i have it all figured out in my head, it will look cool though.Originally Posted by 1ajs
wow nice lost
so how you going to do the air box? somthing like what my volvo has
or the other kind they got for them...
sweet can't wait to see what ya got planed
I'm using the factory cable,I'll just cut off the factory cable bracket on this carb. thats a factory throttle connector for the cable and part of the factory throttle shaft. I just fit it into the existing throttle linkage on the carbs. works perfectly. I had to trim the piece off the carb down a lot, but everything works,it just pulls from underneath instead of from above. i'll mount the bracket right there like factory so it bolts to the upper two manifold bolts
it looks like the carbs are the right size,but the needle and jet in these is from the smaller engine. I found a really good source of parts for the datsuns that came with these carbs factory,so all I have to do is order the needle and jets that came from the 2000 cc datsun roadster and i'm set. almost perfect tune out of the box,these carbs only have a single jet and the metering needle,nice and simple. the carbs adjust themselves according to airflow into the engine. the other option I have later is also to order a set of these used that had the 45mm bore and they will bolt up to my manifold,same linkages etc. going to try the 38s first. dual 38 mm bores in sync. with the amount of air these carbs will flow,ought to be pretty good.
sounds sweet
know anything about the hif6 carbs?
not sure off the top of my head,have you located a service manual yet?it should work on the same principal as the SU type carbs.
ok a couple of quick pictures,didn't have much time,we had a refridgerator fire and it's been hetic. at least we have a house even minus a refrigator. anyway,got the carbs off the manifold, got all the threaded holes on the manifold chased,strange that on a haitachi manifold,all the threads are npt. same as on the factory one,except for the temp sender. thats bsp. but I haves the specials tap. hahaha. got the hole threaded in the manifold water jacket for the temp sender,tomorrow I have to make a bung for 3/8 npt to tig on to the water jacket for the second vaccume sensor. tapped the vaccume side for two 1/8 npt holes for the dis. also have to tig on an aeroquip fitting where one of the freeze plugs is,then I'll have the water outlet. the original one had water passages in the head. the manifold even has provisions in the center for the pcv valve. just need one thats threaded 1/4 npt. the original one was shot.
ok some more pictures,this will be the manifold water outlet,it replaces one of the freeze plugs,once it's tigged in place I'll thread it.
bottom of the manifold,this is the water passage side of the crossover. this is where the two vaccume sensors will go,also the water temp sender. just like factory. all this will be pretty hidden making it look cleaner.
thiswill be the new vaccume port,it has to be tigged also
I added a vaccume port on the right side to match the left,I'm going to put a liquid filled vaccume gauge right in front of each carb.
new port on right side
thats about it for now,those two pieces tiggged in place tomorrow,then that piece is pretty much done. already cleaned up a lot of the casting lines and working on making this part look really nice.
hey can somebody please move this to R and D ? why I put it in off topic I'll never know.
start a new thread so its more useful to the person that reads it next time
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
just pm a mod or admi
some more progress on the carb project,I also posted these in pictures
milling the adaptor plate
i'm going to be modifying the original cable bracket to work on here
the vaccume fittings for the dis controls
[i]plate bolted to the manifold[i]
showing the water outlet I made and the pcv valve location
linkage
the entire assembly,I have to drill the holes for the ports yet,and I need to take it over to the school and have the plate welded on,we don't have a torch big enough to do that plate,they have a water cooled torch over there
its a SU HIF6 i just left the su out lol
------------
nice progress lost
Last edited by 1ajs; 01-06-2007 at 03:22 PM.
ok more progress,the adaptor plate is done,the ports line up perfectly,now the entire project is on hold until I can get the plate welded to the manifold piece. not sure when yet,i guess I'll work on the choke mechanism until then.
for those on here wth sidedraft dual carbs,what were your solutions for hooking up the choke? I ended up building an aluminum slider block,this will enable me to hook up dual choke cables to a single cable going into the car. I bought a mazda choke cable/switch assembly off of ebay. this also allows me to have the choke warning light hooked up. I built the frame from a solid block of billet so the pins would line up square,I used oillite bearings to slide on the pins,and the pins are stainless steel. when I get the entire carb assembly in,I'll probably coat the moving parts of it with lucas red grease,or something like it. this will mount on the top of the adaptor plate right above the manifold. I'm still looking for a couple of control cables with threaded ends,these will have to be cut down short to go to the carbs. I'm thinking of going to the junk yard and pulling a couple of matching throttle cables,maby from a nissan or something. when I get them,the end of the frame will be threaded for the two cables,then they will be pulled by the center bar.
this is a duplicate of a post from performance,since this is also part of the carb project,I posted it here
for those on here wth sidedraft dual carbs,what were your solutions for hooking up the choke? I ended up building an aluminum slider block,this will enable me to hook up dual choke cables to a single cable going into the car. I bought a mazda choke cable/switch assembly off of ebay. this also allows me to have the choke warning light hooked up. I built the frame from a solid block of billet so the pins would line up square,I used oillite bearings to slide on the pins,and the pins are stainless steel. when I get the entire carb assembly in,I'll probably coat the moving parts of it with lucas red grease,or something like it. this will mount on the top of the adaptor plate right above the manifold. I'm still looking for a couple of control cables with threaded ends,these will have to be cut down short to go to the carbs. I'm thinking of going to the junk yard and pulling a couple of matching throttle cables,maby from a nissan or something. when I get them,the end of the frame will be threaded for the two cables,then they will be pulled by the center bar.
nice choke button looks retro
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I ended up just counterboring the back of the slider bracket,then installing set screws to hold the cables in place.
my vaccume gauges came in today, stainless steel. I got liquid filled gauges because I figured the needles would vibrate all over the place on top of the manifold
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-12-2007 at 07:19 PM.
Re: bwahahahahahaha!!!
SWWWEEETT your keeping it old school!
I'm assuming you can not run both chokes from a common shaft?
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
man Tim they look freaken sweet....you have to post a video of how it sounds once you get it up and running
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
na,these types of carbs don't have conventional choke plates,they have a mechanism that moves the jet away from the metering needle to enrich the mixture,it does the same thing as a choke plate blocking the throttle bore,but without the airflow restriction of a plate always being in the way. I got it figured out,I was just curious as to how some other people on here had come up with solutions on their webber sidedrafts and so on. heres a picture of the cables hooked up.
the rod in the middle with the two springs is the throttle linkage by the way.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-13-2007 at 05:05 AM.
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