WEBER has electric choke. i am not sure how it works.
most people when they upgrade to high performance carbs don't need choke.
I never needed, i let my car idle for about 3-4 minutes with me holding the pedal and it would idle great on it is own after that.
Alex.
yea you may not need a choke too much in moultrie ga.. lol
what kind of air filter intake are you going to use? I have seen boxed in intake boxes that you could fix up an air block on it to pull the gas up when its cold.
it gets pretty cold here sometimes,a couple of years ago I had to have my car towed home because the fuel line froze up in the middle of the night. I'm working on the air filter now,I'm waiting on some stuff from ebay so I can get busy on it. I'm keeping my existing air cleaner assembly thats on there,also the intake pipe,that way I already have a carb heat system. I just need to get air from it to the carbs. also look nice in the process.Originally Posted by roodoo2
well I have an idea,I thought of getting one of the aluminum air pipes from a cold air system and making my aluminum pieces that bolt to the carbs,then tig welding them on to the pipe. I found a nice looking round air cleaner cover off of an italian moped on ebay,it's got tthe cast in fins,I was going to use it to cap off the end of the tube since the carbs would be attached along it's length. then the upturned end could be used to duct in air from my air cleaner. thats the only way I could find to get nice looking mandrel bent tube. I've seen cold air kits go for as little as ten bucks on rbay,it doesn't matter about the filter or anything like that,I just need the tube with the upturned end.
Cool, looks like almost ready to see how it runs. Must be nice to get rid of the birdnest of vacuum lines under the hood.
.
got a long way to go before it's ready to even go on the car. just one step at a time. one of the fuel bowl tops was changed at some point in time to some wierd thread, I took it off,I'll mill it down on monday and insert a piece of aluminum with 1/8 npt threads,then I'll get our master aircraft tank welder to weld that piece in. that way it's 1/8 npt fittings on both sides,then I can put my matching braided AN lines to the center fuel rail. the original fuel bowls swivel on the carbs so that the carbs could go at extreme angles. I'm going to find a way to fix them in place ,since I alrady cut the manifold adaptor to take the angle of the engine in consideration.
this brings up an interesting point,since the fuel bowls ae external,the angle of the carb iteslf can be changed depending on the engine,the carb can be at a 45 degree angle and the fuel bowl on the side can still be level. the fuel comes out the bottom of the bowl through a tube called a pippette then goes up to the inlet on the bottom of the carb. each carb has a loop of line going from each fuel bowl to the carb. I believe these may have been the source of hot start problems,if the car sits soaking up engine heat,the fuel in the loops could eaisily vaporize.I'm also going to insulate those two lines to help eliminate that problem. these were a fire hazzard problem also,I believe this was mostly from people using the wrong kind of fuel line there,and using the wrong kind of clamps. I'm going to make those lines a regular inspection point. also with modern materials in fuel line, this probobaly won't be an issue. fuel lines in the 70's didn't last nearly as long as modern lines,with modern materials. when's the last time you heard of a modern fuel line going bad? if I could make those loops braided I would,but It's not going to be possible there.the inlet lines and the vent lines will be braided though. if you look at this volvo,you can see what I mean with the carb angle.
I still would have had to machine the angle in though,because the carbs would have stuck up to high,coming straight off the manifold.
I found a lot of great help today and info on this project, I joined classic Z cars.com,they deal with this particular carb all the time. they gave some great referals too. still lots to do.
i got brand new fuel lines on it cause they blew up on me this past summer lol
even had a little fire :P good thing i had the hose right beside me
Dude! This is awesome! Finally your Accord is going to get some more power.
tim the tool man taylor would be happy.... "arh ahr ahr!"
I got some new fuel lines today too,look at the pictures,I figured out what exactly I had today,these are the carbs off of the 1600cc datsun 510 sss. I talked to the guy at Z therapy and he said they run 2.2 litres all the time with these carbs and they are plenty of carb for even that size engine. It's going to be a while before they go in,got to send the carb bodies off to them and have their roller bearing throttle shafts put in. they invented this process to stop shaft leaks and I feel it's well worth the money as a first rebuild step
i got brand new fuel lines on it cause they blew up on me this past summer lol
even had a little fire :P good thing i had the hose right beside me
more pictures coming in a few minutes,uploading now,the fuel rail is done.
OK the fuel rail is done,I made it from flat bar stock aluminum and aluminum rod. I machined one end of the fuel rail down to fit in the bar and it's locked in place with a set screw. I have to do a little fine tuning on the mounting end to clear the pcv valve,but I'll do that tomorrow. made this entire thing in about twenty minutes,plus my lunch and break.
kool tim cheers
ok the fuel rail is mounted,I had to do a little work on one end,so it would clear the pcv valve. here it is mounted.
I had a little trouble drilling and tapping the holes for the bracket,which nesisitated creating this,a really long extension with a small drill chuck on one end. used it to both drill and tap the holes for the bracket. this also looks like a device from saw.
to help clarify on the AN fittings question,the largest one here in the picture is a -8,the middle one is a -6 and the smallest is a -4
I'm using a -6 from the regulator to the fuel manifold,then a -4 to each carb from there. some people think thats too small,but a -4 is still a bigger diameter inside then the port inside of the fuel bowl. can't flow any more fuel then what will go through the needle valve.
well I'm figuring out the air boxes now,I need to find two nice spun aluminum saucepans with a diameter of just under 7 1/2 inches from outside lip to outside lip. then a standard Mr. Gasket aircleaner top plate will just fit over it. that way i can make the two airboxes that fit on the back of the carbs. the top plates from the air cleaners will bolt to the carb inlets,then the two aluminum pots will fit over a threaded rod. of course I'll remove the handles,DUH! or i could leave them to make them look funky. after they go on the air cleaner plates I have to tig on a couple of tight radius aluminum 90 degree bends. that is the air inlet into the air boxes. finally a lot of fitting tubing together to bring air from my original intake pipe I built. those aluminum cast bends are EXPENSIVE$$$ though. thats forced induction stuff. [img]
Sure you can get a few saucepans at the local thrift store. Guess this will be the first attempt at homemade ITBs.
.
ITBS?
I wish I had a picture of an original mg air cleaner,that used SUs also. it looks just like a saucepan with a tube sticking out the side of it. I'm using the same general idea,but I want to make them look nicer and still pull air from my scoop. heres a link to one of those elbows
http://<br /> http://www.xs-enginee...426_detail.jpg
it's a two inch outside elbow with a tight 90 degree bend.
What you doing looks like individual throttle bodies to me.
.
na dual sidedraft SU type carbs is all. I found a ton of help for tuning these once they get on the car from Z therapy. they know everything about these carbs. they came from the 1.6 litre datsun 510 sss,thats where this set came from, the guy I was talking to at Z therapy said they run 2.2 litre race motors off this same setup. thats what I like about SUs,they will run two different sized engines perfectly,with almost no tuning required. that same needle and jet will run anything from a 1200 to a 2200 cc motor. heres a picture of the original MG aircleaner,if this works
as you can see from the pictures it looks like a sauce pan on the side of the carb. knowing the brittish who invented the SU,it probably was. there is still debate today if the was invented by a meatpacker or a plumber. SU of course stands for Skinners Union. it does look like a throttle body though now that i think about it. I put the two big vaccume gauges on there mostly for looks,but they are functional too.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-20-2007 at 10:24 PM.
what about an airbox, that way choke can be controlled by one flap?
- llia
That is what I was trying to describe. All of that hardware your making looks like extra weight and air sealing issues. You are making an airbox to serve all four carbs, so may as well incorporate the suffocating device into that to conserve weight etc.
I have cranked my car up without a choke quite often, temps in the 20s. It depends on the style of the carbs your using there too, if it is enough in the accel pump when the car sits overnite, to squirt in then draw from the bowl. You have to sit with the car to warm it up. That is par for the course anyway with carbed Hondas, if you want instant drive and go back in the house type warm ups, get fuelyed
I know it is not good to go chokeless<<choke vs. air lol
Last edited by 2oodoor; 02-14-2007 at 08:16 AM.
well I already solved this issue,let me find the urls. Su carbs don't have a traditional choke plate,they move the needle farthur away from the jet to richen the mixture. I already built the mechanical piece to connect both choke cables together and have already built the air cleaners.That is what I was trying to describe. All of that hardware your making looks like extra weight and air sealing issues. You are making an airbox to serve all four carbs, so may as well incorporate the suffocating device into that to conserve weight etc.
I have cranked my car up without a choke quite often, temps in the 20s. It depends on the style of the carbs your using there too, if it is enough in the accel pump when the car sits overnite, to squirt in then draw from the bowl. You have to sit with the car to warm it up. That is par for the course anyway with carbed Hondas, if you want instant drive and go back in the house type warm ups, get fuelyed
I know it is not good to go chokeless
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