well since I won the auction and the money has been sent
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true
Dual Sidedraft SU Carbs
well since I won the auction and the money has been sent
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true
Last edited by lostforawhile; 12-05-2006 at 07:48 PM.
wow sweet! and its from los angeles! wOot
and these are old school carbs too!!
is that your evil laugh....LOL congrats...cant wait to see it painted purple and on the car...lol
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
what are u going to do with it?
Originally Posted by Cheeseburger
...he is going to look at it...and hang it on his wall
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
DOH!! my secret plan has been revealed,of course those dashpots will be purple. I'm going to combine most of that manifold with part of a factory manifold so it bolts up to the car. i already have a gasket set that fits that manifold and it's going to be a good match. this is going to be a long term project so the car will be down for a couple of months. fuel pump,everything has to be changed over. manual choke etc. it's gonna be a beast with those big Su's on there. I'm going to retain most of my fabricated stuff including the entire air cleaner assembly. it's going to have some nice custom bent tubing to feed air to those su's
wow sweet!
GL with the project.
IMHO carbs are just too inefficient and rob power as compared to a FI setup.
Sooo... are these just bigger carbs? i'm confused as to why these are better than the stock one....
03 Nissan Maxima 6spd 3.5L -- Daily Driver
96 Civic Ex-T 210whp/183wtq @ 9.5 psi tuned on Hondata s300 -- Now at 12psi, unknown power
04 CBR600RR - Sold, and now wrecked. RIP
DUAL SU's nice my volvo has dual SU hif6 carbs.
Deadhead have look at this > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SU_carburetor
the stock carb sucks,it's also almost impossible to repair once the system starts going out of whack. dual carbs on a four cyl engine are always better then a single carb. you have almost identical length runners to the cylnders vs the compromise of a single centrally located carb. they are also much eaisier to tune. two dcoe carbs are nice,but are a little over the top for the street. I like the Su carbs because they meter fuel in proportion to airflow,almost like an engine management system. a particular size SU carb will operate the same with a number of different size engines. I have the chart here somewhere and the datsun 510 engine these came off of uses the same carb size as a two litre engine. the sss 510 is also a highh performance engine and the carb was tuned for that anyway.
Great find!
I understand the long term project thing, you know you are gonna have to at least mount them up just to see what they are going to look like. How close is the flange from the Datsun on the manifolds?
it's pretty close,I already bought a gasket from an L16 manifold,I have a stock manifold that I cut off just before the one into two divider,I have to machine it to 15 degrees to compensate for the forward tilt of the engine. I'm probably going to cut off the flanges on the datsun manifold and tig the two together into one manifold. I've already been doing my homework on this swap. I'm waiting on a scrap cyl head from the engine rebuilding place,and I have to find a carb valve cover. I'm going to mock up everything on my bench first. I'm keeping my air cleaner assembly i built,right down to the part that attaches to the carb. I have to move the fuel regulator and some other things too. I'm going to build some additional braces on to my valve cover to support the aircleaner without it being attached to the carb. my plan is to build an air box where the old carb was attached to the bottom of my air cleaner,then an air plenum that feeds air to each carb. I'm going to make the air plenum out of wood first,fit everything together,then fiberglass over it. then you cut the fiberglass in two,split it off the mold halves and put it back together with more glass up to the thickness you want. the end result is a fiberglass custom air plenum. theres a number of things I'm working on,like the piece that ties the ends of the coolant bypass hose together, it holds the temp sender,and the vaccume switch that retards the timing when you start the car. you want to keep that,it makes the car start eaisier. I'm still trying to figure out the charcol canister, you need that also since these cars don't have a vented gas cap. the vapors from the tank have to go somewhere. it's a lot of little pieces,I'm going to do most of the manifold fitting and aircleaner stuff,before i ever take one part off my car,then I know it will bolt right up.
good luck lostforawhile
ok the manifold adaptor is almost done, I machined off the piece of manifold,now if the stupid carbs would get here I would be happy,they told him they probably wouldn't get here until after christmas. so I'm waiting,I did get my choke cable assembly. the stock manifold is a little short for the manifold I'm getting with the carbs,so i machined a piece of aluminum plate that will tig on to it. then I can do some grinding to match the ports. that way the new manifold will bolt up to this one. lots to do,I have to remount the entire air cleaner assembly,move the fuel regulator etc. throttle cable brackets,choke cable,fuel lines,vaccume lines. lots of stuff to make. I will post pics shortly.
ok as promised.
the gasket that fits the L16 motor,i won't need the bottom part of it for the exaust. the manifold and carbs I'm getting bolt right up to an L16,L18,or L20.
the manifold machined off,it's now at a 15 fifteen degree angle,then the carbs will sit level on the engine.
the aluminum plate that will tig to the factory manifold piece,I haven't drilled out the ports yet.
sweet lost keep it coming
woot....nice progress...you have to post a vid after you install it on your car.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
This should go in Carb tech
You will have to make a block plate between cylindre 1/2 and 3/4 in order to maintain proper airflow I think. The Datsun carb is made that way
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
these are actual Su carbs,there are two runners per carb,the manifold is a japan SSS manifold, I made the plate so i could bolt this manifold to the part of the other one like an adaptor. I think these used to be hitachi clones of the SU carbs,then somebody put SU carbs on it later. same bolt pattern. they should be here after the holiday. it took a while for the money to get to him and he said he was told they would have taken about six days to get here without the holiday. so that puts them here just after the holidays. you can see in the picture how they have seperate runners for each carb. this manifold also has the balancer tube. this makes it much eaisier to hook up the important vaccume stuff.This should go in Carb tech
You will have to make a block plate between cylindre 1/2 and 3/4 in order to maintain proper airflow I think. The Datsun carb is made that way
Last edited by lostforawhile; 12-24-2006 at 08:16 AM.
Yeah I saw the separate runners on the SU carbs. I was refering to the stock machined manifold. Both runners are still connected together
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
AUGGGGGHHHH!!!! this idiot sold me the hitichi SU clones. I even emailed him to clarify these were real SU carbs. he swore they were. they look just like SUs but none of the parts are interchangable except for the jet and needle. they have a big Hitachi emblem stamped on each fuel bowl,so eithier he tried to rip me off,or he's an idiot. I'm going to make the best of it,these came on datsun 510's and early z cars,so I'm sure there is aftermarket support for them. I just need a service manual on Hitichi carbs. they also have two different fuel bowl tops,one has a clamp on hose and one has a screw in fitting. I need to search for the carb float bowl top now. I really want to stay with all screw in fittings,especially after the fire. I already figured out the throttle cable linkage,these have a cable that pulls in a different direction,actually a linkage,but I took the throttle shaft out of a dead carb,turned the cable connector around backwards on the shaft,and after I make a spacer,the factory throttle cable will be able to pull in the right direction. in other words instead of pulling from the top,it'll pull from the bottom. I'll just cut the end off that the cable bolts to. and weld a bracket to the rest of it. talking about the piece our cable attaches to. the choke is gonna be a big challenge. it has dual chokes. i need to find a way to link the chokes together, and connect them to the choke cable assembly I got. these types of carbs,talking about SUs and clones,don't use a choke plate, they just use an assembly that moves the jet farthur away from the needle to richen the mixture.
Sux you got hitachi clones, but i can't wait to see what the end result isi always wanted SU carbs after seeing that one guys thread...
Breaking news! What has an H in it!
same bolt patern? why not just make them for for now and later use them as the spares and get the proper ones? but fuck thats stupid hope you used pay pal cause they will reinbers you for this dudes fuck up...
going to use them anyway,they are the japanese copy of the SU. these are the same carbs used on a bunch of datsuns,including the 260z. these are 38 mm bore carbs by the way,thats kind of deceptive because these style of carbs flow about 25 percent more air then a standard fixed venturi carb. this is due to the fact they have no choke horn or plate,and there isn't a bunch of crap sticking into the airstream like a standard carb. when the vennturi is wide open, there is nothing in the airstream but the edge of the throttle plates,and the fuel metering needle. it looks like an open tube,nothing but fuel and air. they don't have a choke plate,because they move the fuel metering jet away from the needle to enrich the mixture for starting. nice and simple,and nothing to block air flow. ok,some progress on the carbs.
I got the linkage for the throttle working,it was made entirely from pieces from one of my dead carbs.
the original carb pull off of the dead carb,in this original configuration it would have turned the linkage shaft backwards.
simple solution so easy an idiot could have thought of it.
figure it out?
hint-it's upside down
the original throttle shaft,I cut it off just before the screw holes.
the original mechanical linkage to the pedal off of the original car,i cut the round part off that goes to the shaft. you can see it's bent. after reaming it out,the throttle shaft from the accord carb slides into it,then the hole gets drilled through the accord shaft,and a bolt holds them together. I had to do a lot of grinding on the piece that holds the cable. lots of extra tabs and crap on it had to go.
throttle shaft pulled
not pulled
i Have to make the bracket to hold the throttle cable yet,the two bolts at the top of the manifold will hold the bracket
the entire assembly,it looks strangly factory,notice I wanted long runners,better for torque
the bottom half of the cross over is actually a water passage,this allows me to run a heated manifold,and I can install the two vaccume sensors and the temp sensor on the bottom side of it,one of the bosses is already there,and I have to tig weld on two more.
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