oil filter adaptor?

[lostforawhile]

hey who on here has found a good thermostatically controlled sandwitch adaptor for an oil cooler? I tried to go to preludeonline.com but they now are such snobs they charge you to even sign up for the forum. I figured since the ludes also use the bosch 3312 they might know. I've got this airplane oil cooler now, got to figure where the crap to put it,then I have to force air cool it with a fan. theres no where in this engine to mount it in the airstream. it's not really safe that way anyway, too easy to leak oil in a wreck. then fireball. maby on brackets off the back of the block,and duct air to it. so if someone knows a good adaptor let me know.

[A20A1]

I saw an interesting mount where they put it on the hood of the car, it was in a hood scoop like enclosure but it had no back or front only the sides.... the cooler laid about 1/2 inch above the hood and it had and air gap on top and on bottom for air flow around the cooler, I guess air passing over the fins pulls air through the fins too so maybe it'll work even though the fins are not lined up like the radiator.

here is a quick chop to give you an idea.

[Kabuki]

Why not just use one of the normal honda oil coolers? One from a 3G Prelude or 4G Accord EX would work great.

[gfrg88]

here is a quick chop to give you an idea.

whos ride is that?!?!? that thing is soooo nice!!!! i love the colour!!

[MessyHonda]

I saw an interesting mount where they put it on the hood of the car, it was in a hood scoop like enclosure but it had no back or front only the sides.... the cooler laid about 1/2 inch above the hood and it had and air gap on top and on bottom for air flow around the cooler, I guess air passing over the fins pulls air through the fins too so maybe it'll work even though the fins are not lined up like the radiator.

here is a quick chop to give you an idea.

so did you chop that up didnt you?...i like the lip...

[lostforawhile]

ok where I'm going to mount the cooler is facing up and down with a bracket welded to the frame that supports the dog bone,where the air jet controller sits now,in that area. I'm going to simply duct air in from the botom,and duct it back out the top to a vent hose and dump out somewhere. I was planning to force air cool with a squirell cage blower,best place to mount that is under the battery tray area. theres plenty of space there. I have to make a couple of shrouds out of fiberglass to clear the under side of the hood,also to make a close tolerance one for the bottom side. I thought of blowing the waste air back out the original air inlet on the fender. it's already there and I can modify a factory inlet air duct. so now I need an extra dog bone mount,the side that attaches to the tranny and goes up and the top of it,the bolt goes through the dog bone. the big bracket,on the tranny side. ANYONE?

[lostforawhile]

ok where I'm going to mount the cooler is facing up and down with a bracket welded to the frame that supports the dog bone,where the air jet controller sits now,in that area. I'm going to simply duct air in from the botom,and duct it back out the top to a vent hose and dump out somewhere. I was planning to force air cool with a squirell cage blower,best place to mount that is under the battery tray area. theres plenty of space there. I have to make a couple of shrouds out of fiberglass to clear the under side of the hood,also to make a close tolerance one for the bottom side. I thought of blowing the waste air back out the original air inlet on the fender. it's already there and I can modify a factory inlet air duct. so now I need an extra dog bone mount,the side that attaches to the tranny and goes up and the top of it,the bolt goes through the dog bone. the big bracket,on the tranny side. ANYONE?

here is the cooler itself,it's a kintex,it says junk because a couple of the fins are bent,no good for an airplane but fine for me.

[lostforawhile]

here is the cooler itself,it's a kintex,it says junk because a couple of the fins are bent,no good for an airplane but fine for me.

ok I found the adaptor at O'reilies,it's 20mmX1.5 right? I pulled a 25 inch vaccume on the cooler all day and no leaks so YAY!!!! I will take pictures throughout the making of all the parts and the installation. going to start the fiberglass baffles on monday.

[A20A1]

wow what a nice compact cooler

[lostforawhile]

wow what a nice compact cooler

found the blower on ebay,just the right size to fit where there is that big space beside the corner of the bumper. where the horns are hidden. I can use a universal thermostatic control from advance for radiator fans,set it for about 150 so when oil goes through the cooler it comes on. it just clips to the fins on the cooler. going to put that blower down in the corner of the bumper and duct air back up the inside of the fender to the original air inlet. I figured out I can use my original air cleaner hose by bending it slightly around to where the cooler will be. I'll just make the shroud to attach to it. then something to direct air down out the bottom of the cooler

[shepherd79]

i don't understand why you want the oil cooler to be on the temorstat switch.
just run the lines and run it at all times.
this way the oil will stay cool at all times.
plus how hot does your oil really gets? are you going to run supercharger or turbocharger? If you are stock or have little mods, you don't need it.
If you auto tranny, that would do wonders for it.

[MessyHonda]

i think he was worryed about how the downpipe was soo close to the oil pan...so when you are in trafic or reving the car alot the oil might heat up and cause the tranny to lose some of its life.

[shepherd79]

well he can just use header wrap and it would increase exhaust velocity and lower engine temp.

[lostforawhile]

i don't understand why you want the oil cooler to be on the temorstat switch.
just run the lines and run it at all times.
this way the oil will stay cool at all times.
plus how hot does your oil really gets? are you going to run supercharger or turbocharger? If you are stock or have little mods, you don't need it.
If you auto tranny, that would do wonders for it.

you want the oil cooler on a themostatic switch because if the cooler runs all the time,you'll over cool your oil. the oil has to reach a certain temprature in order to boil off water condensate that is a normal process of combustion. if you don't have a thermostatic control all that water will just collect in the oil due to it being too cool. a thermostatic sanwitch adaptor only starts oil floing to the cooler after it reaches a certain temp. they are failsafe,if the thermostat didn't open,it would just act like a normal system without a cooler,if it stuck open it would overcool but still maintain pressure. the oil in this thing gets extremly hot in the summertime when I'm sitting in traffic,especially on days when the temp gets over a hundred,thats pretty common here in south georgia. and the traffic is only getting worse. a cooler is extremly benificial to an engine under these conditions. actually since this one will be forced air cooled,it'll work even better in traffic. I'v also done a lot of mods to this engine and I push it pretty hard on a regular basis. more horsepower= more heat. think dual carbs coming too. thats a substantial increase in power. what I was talking about with the blower is a thermostatically controllled switch for the blower motor,when oil starts flowing through the cooler,it triggers the blower. oil cools down,blower goes off. I've also heard people talk abot using tranny coolers and such for oil coolers,don't do this!! you'll get a huge drop in oil pressure trying to use one of those,only use a cooler designed for engine oil. for example,the one i'm using is actually dual circuit,it's designed for the least amount of pressure drop possible. I'm still going to wrap the down pipe too,thats a lot of heat not tranferred into the pan.

[shepherd79]

well i good luck.
I never had any problems with my accord. i had nice mods done to it and on hot days 100+ i never had any problems.
make sure you use quality oil filter and oil. stay away from synthetic oils. older engines as ours with a lot of miles don't like them.

[lostforawhile]

well i good luck.
I never had any problems with my accord. i had nice mods done to it and on hot days 100+ i never had any problems.
make sure you use quality oil filter and oil. stay away from synthetic oils. older engines as ours with a lot of miles don't like them.

I use syntec blend it seems to be pretty happy with it,I keep a higher pressure at higher tempratures then with plain castrol, I also use the bosch filter the stp is supposed to be identical to the bosch internally also.

[MessyHonda]

I use syntec blend it seems to be pretty happy with it,I keep a higher pressure at higher tempratures then with plain castrol, I also use the bosch filter the stp is supposed to be identical to the bosch internally also.

man i used syntec blend 5w-30...and my engine leaked more oil than a busted ford. ....i put in 5 quarts in like 3000 miles...im going back to regular 10w-30 for the winter.

[lostforawhile]

man i used syntec blend 5w-30...and my engine leaked more oil than a busted ford. ....i put in 5 quarts in like 3000 miles...im going back to regular 10w-30 for the winter.

I have transmission leaks,and power steering leaks,but no engine oil leaks. I think if you have old seals it has a tendency to leak,but since I think I've replaced every seal on my engine they seem to be holding.

[MessyHonda]

I have transmission leaks,and power steering leaks,but no engine oil leaks. I think if you have old seals it has a tendency to leak,but since I think I've replaced every seal on my engine they seem to be holding.

my engine only has like 60k and it did not leak when we put regular oil on it...it did it after i put in the syntec blend....my tranny does not leak but my power sterring does...i picked up the pump at the junkyard but i dont want to clean up the mess when i swap it. so im taking it to the shop...then i have to degress my engine.

[lostforawhile]

my engine only has like 60k and it did not leak when we put regular oil on it...it did it after i put in the syntec blend....my tranny does not leak but my power sterring does...i picked up the pump at the junkyard but i dont want to clean up the mess when i swap it. so im taking it to the shop...then i have to degress my engine.

it really won't make that much of a mess when you change it,just stick a couple of clean rags under the disconnected lines. the low pressure line just has to be elevated so fluid doesn't run out. the pump is actually very easy to rebuild just like an oil pump,you can get a kit at advance autoparts. the only thing that doesn't work is the o ring that connects the low pressure inlet hose to the pump body. I just got a different o ring at nappa for a few cents.

[lostforawhile]

ok the latest on the project

I have the mold for the top duct coming along nicely,this is basically a negative for the fiberglass part
in rough form

after shaping

showing how factory air duct will attach to it,the cooler bracket will be welded right to the bracket that attaches the dog bone to the transmission,right where the air jet controller is now. it will be oriented horizontally with air blown in from the original intake opening by the battery. the hose will run down the inside of the fender and the blower will go in that big gap in the corner of the bumper. I'm not sure yet if i want to use a temp activated switch for the blower,or a pressure activated switch.

[lostforawhile]

just waiting for the fiberglass to dry

[Vanilla Sky]

i'd go with temp activated. i think being successful with a pressure activated switch would be harder. with temp activated, it's on whenever the oil is being routed through the cooler. with pressure activated, it's on when the oil is routed through the cooler AND has enough pressure to activate the switch.

on the note of leaky engines with synthetic, if you're having engine oil leaks when you switch to synthetic, you need to change the seals or gaskets that are leaking anyway. dyno oil is crap IMO, so all of my engines run full synthetic. my truck is starting to leak less oil after a few changes of synthetic. remember, synthetic cleans deposits really really well, so you get leaks. in return, it helps remineralize the rubber seals and gaskets that have gone leaky.

[lostforawhile]

now it just needs some minor repair and paint

[lostforawhile]

well tomorrow I'll be sanding and filling on the shroud,it's at the top of the engine,got to look good, I'm still looking for particular sandwitch adaptors from people who have coolers. what ones have worked good. found the one at oreilies but wanting a little input on those.