i have an 89 accord DX carbed and while im driving it would just shut off while im driving. It happened twice on my way home, i would have to shift in neutral and start it up again. Please help.
i have an 89 accord DX carbed and while im driving it would just shut off while im driving. It happened twice on my way home, i would have to shift in neutral and start it up again. Please help.
check the distributor. the coil wires or maybe the battery wires or ground wires. or the spark plug wires.
- llia
where is the coil cause this happened to my bros 96 impala SS.
do your lights dim at all or dose the power seem to be ok
when my alt went bad my car just died like that maybe its the alt
I hate to say it but this JUST happened to my dad's '05 Mazda(Ford) tribute!!! And it was the damned transmission!!! So I wouldn't be surprised. Hopefully it's not that bad, but if it is, just be glad ours are so cheap. My dad was quoted about 2-3 THOUSAND for the whole damn automatic shebang!
I have disgraced myself in the eyes of HondaBoy. I have bought an American car. My shame is great...
NOT...lol...Cobalt FTW!!!
i dont think it would be the alternator or the transmission, how do i check the distributor and the plug wires and the coil?
If the battery is still powering your lights, stereo, air/cooling, etc like those other guys said, then it's probably not an electrical problem. That's why I tend to say the transmittor.Originally Posted by ahmad89
I have disgraced myself in the eyes of HondaBoy. I have bought an American car. My shame is great...
NOT...lol...Cobalt FTW!!!
i dont think its the transmission cause this has never happened before it happened after i put the spark plug wires in order, could it be the spark plug wires?
i would run a cleaner in the fuel tank to clean out the carb. check out seafoam...i ran it on my dx and that thing passed smog and it felt better.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
yea im gonna buy a carb cleaner and fill up at a gas station maybe today. Do i have to have a full tank? and can i just put it in and drive it later or do i have to put it in before i drive?
Last edited by ahmad89; 12-31-2006 at 10:33 AM.
Ok i went to walmart and got osme gumout carb and fuel injector cleaner, it says to put the entire bottle in the gas tank when its almost empty and then fill it up, luckly my gas tank is almost empty. I put it in after i came home and im waiting for my dad to get here so i can get some gas money. I bought another bottle to put in the next time i fill up. Hope it works, the car died on me again on the way home i was driving and the rpms started to drop slowly and when i pressed the gas nothing happened, i immediately knew it died so i put my hazards on and wait for the rpms to drop to 0 and then start it up again. Its really annoying and could cause me to get into an accident.
supposedly my car used to do that on long trips tooo. ive never experienced it but my sister and the guy she was with swear it happend. like is it ur driving and then ur rpms shoot up while u slow down? cause if so its the same problem which me and my dad think never happend to our car... even tho we rebuilt the tranny just incase
499ks and still givener shit muhahaha
the rpms dont shoot up it just starts to decrease even when im off the gas pedal the rpms drop slowly then it reaches 0. I put it in neutral and then start it again.
I don't think there is a cleaner that can clean carbs. I know there are cleaners you put into the fuel tank that clean the injectors. My suggestion would be clean the carb with carb cleaner, check to make sure non of your spark plug wires are cracked or broken. Also, pull your distributor cap off, and check for signs of wear, or cracks. While you are at it, replace the cap and the rotor.
Edit: When was the last time your fuel filters were changed? You may want to replace those as well.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
there are carb cleaners that you put in the gas tank i just put in a bottle as you can see in my post before crazybird's post. I dont wanna take off the distributor cap without knowing what precautions and how to properly remove it.
It's very simple. You have 2 screws holding it. After you remove those two screws just pull it away from the distributor and thats it. If you replace the rotor, it may not come off. When my brother and i had to pull mine off to replace it, we just broke it off gently and put some anti-seize lube on the shaft so the new one would be easy to remove if needed.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
ok is that where the coil wire is?
Has it been getting worse? Are you saying it just doesn't cut out, but the engine sort of strangles itself until it stops? I'd for sure change both fuel filters - one's under the hood, a little one, and the other is in the left rear wheel well.
My car did this and it was a worn out ignition switch.
This was before I started doing most repairs myself, but the part and labour costs weren't very much. I believe it was under $100 total
Honda, The Heartbeat of Japan...
2004 RSX Type S
1989 Accord Coupe LX 5spd 2bbl
Slushies are something to drink, not drive...
it hasnt been getting worse, yesterday i put in the fuel injection/ carb cleaner and i recently just drove it for like a 5 min drive to get some groceries and nothing happened. I also need new headlights the ones i have on dont light up much and barely light up the road.
get some silvania silverstars unless you want to do a h4 conversion.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
spend the extra cash and get the h4 conversions
dont have the extra cash to get a conversion i'll just get the bulbs.
yup you dont need anything that is going to blind ppl. im happy with my silverstars...i paid like 40 bucks for the pair.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
now when im changing the bulb do i just have to twist that black part thats behind the headlight and the bulb is there?
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