Dude that's hardcore! I think it might just work! So you're using the 2.0g crossmember ends, and a 2.5g crossmember middle section and "radius arms" ?
Dude that's hardcore! I think it might just work! So you're using the 2.0g crossmember ends, and a 2.5g crossmember middle section and "radius arms" ?
It's all from the 2.5g crossmember, just cut, narrowed and angled. After the gap is welded shut, the weld will get ground flush, and you all will know what "plated to fuck" means.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Those ends are from the 2.5g as well? I thought the 2.5 had the 2 bolts in the ends of the front crossmember...
Only the 4 door, for some reason.Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Oh, thats crazy. I wonder why that is... I thought the front ends were the same on hatch and sedan, but I guess not. Wow!
Wow, I can see why you wouldn't want to go cutting into the shape of the original crossmember, its much narrower fore/aft than the 1st gen part -which has 2 bolts per side as well. Do you think it might want at least one more mounting point in the center, or on each end - to eliminate the possibility of the frame rocking, now that its mounting is no longer on the members c/line.
The transmission member sits flat on the table to locate the center piece, and the two plates welded to the table beside the tranny member locate the c/l. I think this is shown in the 2nd or 3rd pic from the top. As the pieces get tacked in, more measurements will be taken to ensure the exact shape of the member when it is finished.
Edit: I think I see what you were actually asking, I believe the tranny member would prevent the main beam from rotating under load. I was thinking about adding another mount somehow to more evenly distribute the load, but I'm not sure how I'd do it yet.
Last edited by Ichiban; 02-16-2007 at 09:44 AM.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
My 85 hatch has the 4 bolt cross member. Did that cross member come from an 84 or 85? I'm just speculating that there are some differences between the 84 and 85. IIRC when I was cross referencing parts for the integra trans swap way back when I saw some part numbers that were different between 84 and 85. I figured at the the time they were just minor updates for reliability etc. Oh and just an FYI while you have the cross member all chopped up. If things line up like they did in my swap only the dx/lx style exhaust manifold will clear it with out mods. To use an LX-i or aftermarket manifold requires the cross member to be clearanced it slightly. On mine I had to cut the seam off by the exhaust and dent the area in a little. You may want to double check the clearance on yours before you put the finishing touches on it.
andy
Last edited by PhydeauX; 02-16-2007 at 10:25 AM.
I thought that the member came from an 85, but now Im not sure at all. Methinks that I'll look it up on Majestic Honda and find out for sure. Right now I'm considering finding a 4 bolt beam and cutting the ends off, and upgrade to the 4 bolt system. I wonder how hard it would be to add a second mounting point to the front of the car?
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Hmm well if there is a difference between 84 and 85, it's gotta be the hatches only then. My 84 has the 4 bolt crossmember. Or maybe there was a revision half way through 84 or something.
Could even be that the 2.5g in Canada got the 2bolt crossmember since it had the A16.
This could be correct. Majestic Honda shows the same part (52496) for the front beam between 84-85. The illustration suggests the 4 bolt beam, and the same diagram is used for both years.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
I swear that when I was up at Guy's place you showed me a crossmember with 2 bolts on each end... Or maybe you were pointing out my crossmember on my car. Could that other one be from a 1g??
Not that it matters much, since what you're doing will fix your problem.
The 1g front beam is smaller in every way. The one that I'm modding has the A-series mount bolted to it, and it came from a white 85 hatchback from waneta auto recyclers. I pulled it and the tranny beam myself.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
I will be going either LXi manifold to start with, and then aftermarket header for sure. Do you have a pic of how much material needs to go?
I thought this thread would cause quite a stir. Apparently nobody gives a shit about custom work on this site. (other than 2g guys)
Last edited by Ichiban; 02-16-2007 at 09:16 PM.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Today I welded on both ends and managed to keep decent alignment, despite the shitty welder that puts out way too much heat for the thickness of the material. Tomorrow I start with the overplate/gusset to tie it all together. I'm going with 1/16" plate, as it's more approximate to the size of the material and will be easier to weld. Already the piece is rigid as hell, when I'm done it will be rather overbuilt, but that's ok. Pictures tomorrow, if I remember the camera.
I also discovered that my transmission beam for the 85 setup will not directly bolt on to the rear beam with the steering rack, I will have to re-drill some holes, depending on which ones don't line up.
Last edited by Ichiban; 02-19-2007 at 04:48 PM.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
I just had to cut the seam off that was directly next to the exhaust pipe. They were just barely touching, you need a bit of space to allow things to flex. I also gave it a couple of whacks with a hammer for good measure. My digicam sucks and won't take a pic closer then 3ft. I'd need to get it up on a lift, which I don't have, to get a pic.
andy
You are running Pacesetter or DC? I've noticed the primary to secondary flange on the Pacesetter is cocked to one side, causing clearance issues.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
I'm running pacesetter, but the flange is above the cross member so it's not the problem. It was the pipes below the flange that were too close.
andy
How much clearance did you end up with? I'm thinking I might be able to adjust the position of the engine on the motor mounts to maximize the space, but that flange will probably have to go anyways. I wonder if I can just bend the headers to clear the crossmember?
Anyways, today I was nearly done, when I got the bright idea to lay on another pass of weld where it wasn't really needed. When it cooled, it had the effect of shrinking the overall length of the piece so it wouldn't go on and off the jig smoothly. I cut the piece again directly over the existing weld, and started welding it back together. Crooked. Tomorrow I'll cut it off completely and do it over, properly.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Bummer man. At least you can fix it. Excited to see pics. That hatch is gonna haul ass!
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 02-20-2007 at 07:22 PM.
Hrm, if you don't mind welding the A20 flange to the Megan racing header I can give you my project header for a small price. Lots to do but all are doable seeing as you have a welder. I can give you a full list of what is left if you're interested.
Pipes drop a bit low but other then that they hug the motor, I was under the impression the 2G's couldn't be lowered as much as the 3G anyways. It already has damage from being installed on a lowered car. It's probably why I got it so cheap.
- llia
Oooh yumm! How can you pass on that, Mike? You've got all the right tools to make it happen! Do it!
John, we're both mike (as far as I know)
Mike (A20A1) PM sent.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
And so the fruits of today's labor;
This looks just sweet. Too bad I'm going to plate over it.
Sorting out the crookedness.
First overplate completed.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Man that is lookin like a beauty! If another person ever winds up owning that car, they won't even know that you did that. Thats the best custom work if you ask me, the kind that most people won't know!
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