Dude that's hardcore! I think it might just work! So you're using the 2.0g crossmember ends, and a 2.5g crossmember middle section and "radius arms" ?
Dude that's hardcore! I think it might just work! So you're using the 2.0g crossmember ends, and a 2.5g crossmember middle section and "radius arms" ?
Those ends are from the 2.5g as well? I thought the 2.5 had the 2 bolts in the ends of the front crossmember...
Oh, thats crazy. I wonder why that is... I thought the front ends were the same on hatch and sedan, but I guess not. Wow!Originally Posted by guyhatesmycar
Wow, I can see why you wouldn't want to go cutting into the shape of the original crossmember, its much narrower fore/aft than the 1st gen part -which has 2 bolts per side as well. Do you think it might want at least one more mounting point in the center, or on each end - to eliminate the possibility of the frame rocking, now that its mounting is no longer on the members c/line.
The transmission member sits flat on the table to locate the center piece, and the two plates welded to the table beside the tranny member locate the c/l. I think this is shown in the 2nd or 3rd pic from the top. As the pieces get tacked in, more measurements will be taken to ensure the exact shape of the member when it is finished.
Edit: I think I see what you were actually asking, I believe the tranny member would prevent the main beam from rotating under load. I was thinking about adding another mount somehow to more evenly distribute the load, but I'm not sure how I'd do it yet.
Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
My 85 hatch has the 4 bolt cross member. Did that cross member come from an 84 or 85? I'm just speculating that there are some differences between the 84 and 85. IIRC when I was cross referencing parts for the integra trans swap way back when I saw some part numbers that were different between 84 and 85. I figured at the the time they were just minor updates for reliability etc. Oh and just an FYI while you have the cross member all chopped up. If things line up like they did in my swap only the dx/lx style exhaust manifold will clear it with out mods. To use an LX-i or aftermarket manifold requires the cross member to be clearanced it slightly. On mine I had to cut the seam off by the exhaust and dent the area in a little. You may want to double check the clearance on yours before you put the finishing touches on it.
andy
I thought that the member came from an 85, but now Im not sure at all. Methinks that I'll look it up on Majestic Honda and find out for sure. Right now I'm considering finding a 4 bolt beam and cutting the ends off, and upgrade to the 4 bolt system. I wonder how hard it would be to add a second mounting point to the front of the car?
Hmm well if there is a difference between 84 and 85, it's gotta be the hatches only then. My 84 has the 4 bolt crossmember. Or maybe there was a revision half way through 84 or something.
Could even be that the 2.5g in Canada got the 2bolt crossmember since it had the A16.
I swear that when I was up at Guy's place you showed me a crossmember with 2 bolts on each end... Or maybe you were pointing out my crossmember on my car. Could that other one be from a 1g??
Not that it matters much, since what you're doing will fix your problem.
Originally Posted by PhydeauX
I will be going either LXi manifold to start with, and then aftermarket header for sure. Do you have a pic of how much material needs to go?
I thought this thread would cause quite a stir. Apparently nobody gives a shit about custom work on this site. (other than 2g guys)
Today I welded on both ends and managed to keep decent alignment, despite the shitty welder that puts out way too much heat for the thickness of the material. Tomorrow I start with the overplate/gusset to tie it all together. I'm going with 1/16" plate, as it's more approximate to the size of the material and will be easier to weld. Already the piece is rigid as hell, when I'm done it will be rather overbuilt, but that's ok. Pictures tomorrow, if I remember the camera.
I also discovered that my transmission beam for the 85 setup will not directly bolt on to the rear beam with the steering rack, I will have to re-drill some holes, depending on which ones don't line up.
I just had to cut the seam off that was directly next to the exhaust pipe. They were just barely touching, you need a bit of space to allow things to flex. I also gave it a couple of whacks with a hammer for good measure. My digicam sucks and won't take a pic closer then 3ft. I'd need to get it up on a lift, which I don't have, to get a pic.
andy
How much clearance did you end up with? I'm thinking I might be able to adjust the position of the engine on the motor mounts to maximize the space, but that flange will probably have to go anyways. I wonder if I can just bend the headers to clear the crossmember?
Anyways, today I was nearly done, when I got the bright idea to lay on another pass of weld where it wasn't really needed. When it cooled, it had the effect of shrinking the overall length of the piece so it wouldn't go on and off the jig smoothly. I cut the piece again directly over the existing weld, and started welding it back together. Crooked. Tomorrow I'll cut it off completely and do it over, properly.
Bummer man. At least you can fix it. Excited to see pics. That hatch is gonna haul ass!
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 02-20-2007 at 07:22 PM.
Hrm, if you don't mind welding the A20 flange to the Megan racing header I can give you my project header for a small price. Lots to do but all are doable seeing as you have a welder. I can give you a full list of what is left if you're interested.
Pipes drop a bit low but other then that they hug the motor, I was under the impression the 2G's couldn't be lowered as much as the 3G anyways. It already has damage from being installed on a lowered car. It's probably why I got it so cheap.
- llia
Oooh yumm! How can you pass on that, Mike? You've got all the right tools to make it happen! Do it!
Man that is lookin like a beauty! If another person ever winds up owning that car, they won't even know that you did that. Thats the best custom work if you ask me, the kind that most people won't know!
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