Engine Swaps

[Ichiban]

Yeah, it runs unreal when it's cold for about 5 minutes, but I don't like running it hard until it's hot. When it's warm it bogs real hard, idles way rich, misses under part throttle and loads up. Sometimes WOT cleans it up and it pulls hard, but usually it surges, stumbles and bogs.

Don't know if its ignition timing, cam timing or fuel at this point, or one problem influencing the ECU and causing numerous other resultant problems.

It has a new Bosch O2 sensor, and it seems to idle better with my sucky buddy sucking hard on the line to the MAP. Seems more vacuum makes the computer lean it out. So maybe low vacuum caused by wrong cam timing? Or too much fuel? We had to open the idle adjust screw quite a bit to get it to idle at all, so maybe excess fuel made us open up the intake to get it to idle which drops vacuum and confuses the MAP and ECU which makes it run worse?

Also when it's hot, sometimes I open the throttle to pull away from a light or stop sign and it stumbles and backfires (intake).

So something isn't right, and I'm sure it's one factor causing most of the problems.

(yay first post on foundation membership, gonna go check out the other features now!!)

[Dr_Snooz]

Your build is freaking awesome, so forgive me for not having followed it more closely. If I'm repeating something you've already done, just bear with me. If you put a vacuum gauge on it, what does it look like? What's your oil pressure doing? What do your spark plugs look like? Are they fouling?

It sounds a lot like you're having timing issues. You can set timing by ear and also with a vacuum gauge. Try timing it differently to see if it changes anything. Funny noises at idle just might go away when you're driving and give you a better driving experience. Where did you get your injectors? Are they old and possibly leaky? Most of the FI related sensors and controls will flash a CEL if they have a problem. If you aren't getting any codes, then I wouldn't worry about them too much. If you're really concerned about them, you can run through the diagnostic procedures in the manual for all of the suspect components just to be doubly sure.

[rideordie12]

So i got to thinking (might not bea good thing) and how alot of problems come from the forward mounted exhaust motors.... Would it be much easier for a new d series or k series motor to be fabbed up to fit since they both have rear facing exhaust manifolds, or would it not work because of the axles and hubs?

[Ichiban]

Might be easier, I thought that the d-series still had front exit exhaust.

[rideordie12]

I believe the new d series like in the fits and whatever else have them and they are reversed also

[2ndGenGuy]

That "New D-Series" is the L or R or something. Yeah, rear exhaust like the K though. Makes more sense to me since the air comes in the front and goes out the back, in the direction the car is going...

[Ichiban]

theres no such thing as an advance/retard part in them dizzys, it just tells the ecu when the engines at certain angles and the ecu looks at its map and the vacuum/tps and says lets advance/retard the timing. even tho the engine runs fine their could still be a fuckup somewhere tho eg a dizzy sensor or cam sensor etc, Maybe you should run it on a 1g teg dizzy and cam sensor and rule out ignition being the reason its doing a weird running thing?

Kk I get it, the cam/crank sensor tell the ECU then it thinks a bit and triggers the coil via the ignitor bocks when it decides it wants spark. All the distributor does is tell the ecu when to fire injectors, and which cylinder gets spark.

I got quoted a price of $350 for a new B20A5 distributor, not cheap. Anybody know of cheaper, quality parts available?

I replaced the return line barb with one with a larger orifice. Though I didn't get to road test the car, it still bogs and misses at idle. It doesn't seem to leak down fuel pressure or flood when it's shut off, but the fuel pressure gauge is the only way to figure that one out.

I need to get ahold of a timing light as well.

[AccordB20A]

yeah or OBD1 the cunt and tune it instead of spending 500 dollars on a dizzy

[Ichiban]

I'll still need a distributor.

[2ndGenGuy]

My 81 doesn't have a distributor.

[Ichiban]

My 81 doesn't have a distributor.

Shaddup!

Why aren't you online right now?

[Ichiban]

So, in light of this information, when I go to test fit again, it will be with the A20 block, A18 tranny and the EL side mount, if it bolts to the A-block. If not, I'll use the ET2 side mount, and modify it to bolt to the car.

Sure fuckin changed that plan I got all nostalgic and started reading this thread from the beginning, it's amazing what I didn't know and jumped right into this bloody thing. Was going to have a carbed A20, eventually ended up with an EFI B20A years later. Who knew?

[2ndGenGuy]

LOL. I think we did the same thing. I was like, fuck this A20 swap, might as well just go all out and get a B20A! Then when I told you what I was doing, you agreed. Lots of learnin' on this one! I also learned, make sure you've got good oil pressure before driving to Portland and back.

[Ichiban]

Oh shit yeah! I still need to get my gauges hooked up, I wonder if there's a spot for the temp sensor to go...

Hey did you ever figure out what caused the oil pressure to die?

[2ndGenGuy]

Not yet, I'd probably have it back together if the 81 hadn't decided to take a shit on me like 2 months later...

[AccordB20A]

still waiting for video of the 2gee b20a of mikes getting a raping

[Ichiban]

still waiting for video of the 2gee b20a of mikes getting a raping

She's parked in wintertime, those pic's were of the day before snow happened...

[AccordB20A]

indeeed i guess i have to wait till its winter over here to see em haha

[Ichiban]

Going back next wed for Nana's funeral. Gonna fire it up and hopefully take some pics.

[AccordB20A]

good to hear. john needs to make his one work

[SA6]

everybody can you tell me what type of honda engine that fit with 2geez ('plug and play')?
how about b16, b20, or f20b?
thank you

i want to replace my slowly a16a engine




sorry for my bad english

[AccordB20A]

A20a3

[SA6]

A20a3

only a series that can plug and play with 2geez?

[AccordB20A]

even then you have to swap a lot of crap around have a search theres a few members that have done it on here

[2ndGenGuy]

B20A will fit too, but you gotta figure out what axles to use. You can check my swap thread, or Ichiban's, though his setup is a bit different. A20 is going to be the most direct, as your A16 transmission will bolt right up. Also, does your car really have an A16A in it? You sure it's not an ES or EZ or something?