Ok i finally broke down and bought an apc air fuel ratio cuz i didnt wanna drop the cash for the autometer one, and this on lights up and that usually makes me happy. Its got a green yellow and white wire i think, the instructions look like my little cousin drew them, anyone know where these wires go?
It doesn't really matter, the gauge is mostly useless (beyond the entertainment factor). It's a narrowband a/f gauge so it's not sensitive enough (or designed to be) good for too much.
You need a wideband o2 to actually know what's going on.
Alex
Thats exactly what my teacher told me, almost the exact same wording too, and ya im not gonna lie, i just got it cuz it looks coool as hell, and it lights up.
Your teacher is right
Alex
heh ya he knows his stuff
dont widebands cost like 200 bucks?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
More like $300.
I split a Zeitronix zt-2 with my friend and it's pretty much the cheapest. No gauge, just requires a laptop. You can buy a gauge but it's an extra $150 and not worth it. Zt-2 also has really high sampling resolution, as well.
Alex
cool i got 2 laptops but yeah this just helps you find out how the engine is running right like lean or rich?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
as long as the part works then its all good
A wideband lets you know exactly what the a/f ratio is. Granted, without any sort of management or tuning capabilities it doesn't really do much good.
Alex
i cant see me dropping 200-300 dollars on a wideband, i just wanted a cool loookin gauge, and if i got an air fuel reading out of it that would just be a bonus.
2 wires are for the power for the lights and the other one you can splice into the O2 sensor wire.Originally Posted by mastaofdisasta
which wire is the o2 sensor wire and which power wires should i use
AEM makes good one UEGO.
you can find them on ebay for about $250
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=67
Alex.
The picture isnt the best but it tells you, i cant remember which wires are which. I have a feeling the green is the one for the O2 sensor but im not positive.
it looks like we are just paying for the wideband and a fancy guage..cant they check at a dyno your air/fuel mix ratio?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Yeah, they can put in a sniffer, but if you have a cat the readings will be off.
If you're serious about tuning (and have an ecu capable of being tuned, standalone, or a piggyback setup like safc2) a wideband is a good idea.
Alex
I've been trying to figure out which wideband O2 sensor system to get. I'd like to get one that has replaceable O2 sensors that I can pick up at the auto parts store, instead of buying the "special" O2 sensor from AEM or the like.
Also, I noticed that the DC headers have two bungs for O2 sensors. If you're running dual carbs, isn't there a chance that your AFR could be different on each set of cylinders? Would it be better to weld in a new bung after the final collector?
14.7 - 15 is the correct AFR isn't it?
A lot of widebands use the Bosch LSU 4, but I don't think those are available at parts store. Just get one that does what you want it to do and has the features you want (rpm input, etc). You're not really supposed to run them full time anyway, I don't think, but many do. I wouldn't worry about being able to find a local replacement--they're only like $70 or $80 online.
And 14.7 is stoichiometric, but you don't want that lean under full load for example.
Alex
you can run them all the time, the O2 sensor will just worn out faster.
and the reason you want dyno shop use their wideband is because it is linked with dyno machine. It is a lot easier to tune that way.
Plus if you have one running at all times you will be able to see what is going on at all times.
Alex.
Yeah the red wire is always your ground wire.
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