Cleaning Internal Engine Parts?

[2ndGenGuy]

Okay, rebuilding an engine. I know one of the big things is making sure all the parts are clean when they go back together. Block, rods, pistons, bearings, caps; all that stuff needs to be spotlessly clean when assembling.

I've ready about people cleaning parts with warm, soapy water, gasoline, acetone, paint thinner, mineral spirits, wax and grease remover, and brake cleaner.

What is really the best thing to use? Or is it really even going to matter with any of those listed? What do you guys use for this?

[Blkblurr]

I use kerosene because it is oil based and leaves a little lube on the parts. It does not create flammable vapors either like gasoline and acetone.

[bobafett]

chemical bath ftw!

honestly i have had good luck with simple green and a fine fine wire brush for the 'external' stuff.... but to really get a head and stuff clean u need to just get all your parts acid dipped. its not that much money if you can bring them all the parts and they dont need to reassemble or dissassemble anything.

that and when i rebuilt my motor and cleaned stuff i went through about 2 cases of carb cleaner. literally...

[2oodoor]

For external parts, Zep Big Orange Liquid, that stuff melts away gunk thoroughly, and rinses off nice. It is a degreaser, it melts away styrofoam if you have any of that on your motor. lol.. does a super job on engine compartment. I still come back with gasoline instead of kero on parts to be painted, the kero can leave a permiated film, and paint may not adhease too well.
Internal, Gasoline or Kero.. I used the Big Orange on rocker assy once and it worked out ok, but you have to spray a petro product to keep it from rusting. For tough gunk on head, you can use Fuel Inj cleaner like Lucas, Seafoam, etc. to break it up, then follow up with a milder solvent. WD 40 works good for finishing them off till you can assemble.
Ideally though if you have access to an aquaous parts washer like a Cuda, there are other brands, you put the nastiest of parts in and minutes later it comes out like brand freaken new. It does ALL the work.

[88LXi68]

I would take everything that needs to cleaned, painted and machined to a machine shop and have them prep everything for you. Then all you have to do is just put it all together.

[cygnus x-1]

For metal parts you can use pretty much whatever cleaner you want that will get the crud off. For aluminum parts don't use anything that's highly basic (e.g. sodium hydroxide) as it will attack the aluminum. For iron/steel stay away from anything highly acidic as it will attack the steel. All the things you listed are ok.

For blocks and heads just let the shop do them. It's not worth the time to clean them youself.

C|

[2ndGenGuy]

Well, the shop has already cleaned all the parts. I'm just talking about the last couple weeks the parts have sat, I don't want any dust, or shavings from when they bored it out to get into anything. I'm sure they cleaned it themselves, but I have a tendency to like to give everything the once-over myself. Also, I picked up a remanufactured crankshaft, and while it's clean, it's got particles of carboard and packaging all over it. It's going to need a thorough cleaning for sure.

Thanks for all the great advice, everybody! I will, of course, be posting pictures of the build this weekend for you to enjoy. Your help is much appreciated!

[shepherd79]

for the oil i use carb cleaner. it works great.
for the dirt i use simple green.

[russiankid]

I would say using carb cleaner or brake cleaner would work just fine. Use rubber gloves as well so you don't get any oils onto the parts from your fingers. Try not to use paper towels, they tend to leave little white specs of lint.

[Oldblueaccord]

Diesel fuel is a good one as well. keeps parts from rusting and is easy to get store etc.


wp

[Ichiban]

I use compressed air and brakekleen. You do NOT want any oil under bearing shells, or between the flat surfaces of the cap to block/rod interface, as it will slowly leach out and reduce your fastener torque. Also, use clean motor oil on the threads of all fasteners before torquing, never torque a dry fastener. For the cylinders, I use clean "shoptowells" and brakekleen to ensure all honing grit is removed. Buy a few rolls, and a case of brakekleen aerosol.

[jigga89SEi]

Use mineral spirits (varsol) thats what we use at work before final assembly of any head block or motor... And you can never go wrong with brakekleen and a blow gun.... You can use water to rinse also, just make sure you blow dry everything well and coat any steel, cast or other corrodible metal with wd40 or some other lube/protectant...

And don't forget this little motto... (i use it at work all the time)... You can never but a motor together to clean or to greasy

[Remedy]

Often the parts cleaning "sinks" (you know the 30 gallon drum with a sink and a pump/brush) are filled with kerosene. Its safe to use and leaves a film that will prevent rust from forming on iron parts (like cylinder bores for example). For parts that must be extremely clean for sealing purposes (like the headgasket) use a lint free rag wetted with brake parts cleaner...

If you sent any part to a machine shop, don't even think of installing it until you have blown and flushed every orifice from every angle. They try, bless their hearts, but they often miss an engine wrecking metal shaving.

[2ndGenGuy]

Man thanks for all the great info. I'm glad you told me about making sure there's no oil under the caps. I did lube up underneath, so I think I'm going to have to tear it all out and clean it up. Maybe after I do that, I'll recheck all my clearances with Plastigauge to make sure it's all still tight.

And you guys were right about cleaning the passages and everything out thoroughly. I ran lacquer thinner through everything, and almost everything ran dirty and particles came out. So it's definitely a good thing I did that.

It's really amazing how simple the bottom end of the engine is mechanically, but how precise everything needs to be. It's very time consuming, but having everything checked and double checked is definitely the way to go...