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Thread: Engine Starts then Dies

  1. #1

    SiR's Avatar
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    Engine Starts then Dies

    When the engines cold (over 9 hours of rest) the car will start right up, then 5-10 sec. later, the car dies, no matter what you try to save it. Then it would just crank. I give it some gas but still crank. Making sure it dosent flood. I let it sit there for over a min., then I try to restart it and eventuly it catches. Car runs fine afterwards. This does not happen when you restart it when its warm. I haven't look at it yet. Hope anyone can help me on this.


    Rooz



  2. #2
    1988starter
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    Check your ignition coil and clean your carb see if that helps.

  3. #3
    LX User bigpoppa88's Avatar
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    same thing

    Mine did the same thing for the last 8 months, it has now continued to be a real pain in the ass. As you see from my choke post, it'll continue to worsen. I'm keeping an eye out for a used carb at the bone yard....you should be doing the same.

  4. #4

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    my last carb did this to me after i rebuild it.
    ignition on, push accelerator twice, start the car and it will die aftere a few seconds. push accelereator pedal twice and start the car.
    i don't know what it it. i putt another carb from my spare car and it runs great no problem.
    Alex.

  5. #5
    LX User DanG86LX's Avatar
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    There is an old thread about it here:
    https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2463
    unfortunately of not much help..
    I used to have same problem for years, went to H-dealer and couldn't fix it. This year because of idle and stall problems I had to take the carb apart and cleaned it. Seems that the starting problem vanished too.

  6. #6
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    i had similiar starting problems, but nowadays if i start it and it starts to die then i don't do anything. the rpm's have dropped to pretty much nothing but then it just raises back up and runs fine after a sec.
    "Turn off the television sets and eradicate the slander that says a black youth with a book is acting white." - Barack Obama

  7. #7
    3Geez Veteran smufguy's Avatar
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    what u gotta do is, just take the filter box out of the carb and push it back, dont disconnect ur vaccum lines to it. . remove the mesh around ur carb, u see the small butterfly flap??? use a small milk gallon cap or somethign and insert the cap right there. before u insert it, ask someone to start the car up and push down the flap and u will hear the engine spin faster, just instert the cap in the flap and let it idle for a while, once the coolent temp rises, u will notice that ur car will be fine even with u remove the cap off of the carb.

    the fault is in the valve diaphram that operates the butterfly valve, follow the linkage and u should be able to see it. trust me, thats what i had to do to get ym car warmed up in freaking cold winter. and u will see what i did to my car if u read under the name.

  8. #8
    LXi User BoredRec's Avatar
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    IMHO its the insulator block. Symptoms, car starts, but dies when cold. Starts fine and stays running when warm. Reason being is that the insulator block is creating a huge vacuum and is making the A/F mixture too lean when cold. To check. spray something like brake cleaner around the base of the carb...you should notice a change in RPM's if it is bad. To fix, replace the block...usually Honda has them in stock, but they are kind of a pain in the butt to do yourself...recommend a mechanic to do it.
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  9. #9
    LX User DanG86LX's Avatar
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    BOREDREC, u mean EFE insulator the one with a heating mesh in it. That might take care of the carb icing. I tested mine at the time and seemed ok, 10..12A during warmup. But we talking here about the first 3..5sec after the engine starts, I don't think EFE has enough time to heat up. Tend to agree with SMUFGUY, must be a choke opener problem which should crack the choke ajar (too much or too little stalls the engine).

  10. #10
    LXi User BoredRec's Avatar
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    I'm not talking about the power to it...I mean the rubber has deteriorated <sp?> away to allow air to leak in. Break cleaner is sprayed cuz it will find the holes and give the engine something new to burn, which usually raises the idle.
    1988 Accord LXi Sedan
    Custom Cold Air Intake -- Custom Exhaust -- Neuspeed Springs -- ACT Stage II Clutch

    Alpine 9815 -- MTX 2300X -- 2 JL 10W3V2's

  11. #11
    LX User DanG86LX's Avatar
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    I agree, vacuum leaks kill our engine, although I still have to find my first one..

  12. #12

    SiR's Avatar
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    Thats what it was, a vacuum leak. One from the carb. $0.49 fix!!!


    Rooz

  13. #13
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    You may need a fuel pump.


    Why do I say that?


    You ride starts using up the fuel still in carb bowel. then dies.

    Fuel pump may have a weak point in ammeture.

    Try this : Just "key up" fuel pump not turning key engaging starter about 5-6 times on-off-on -off see if it will run after that .

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by SiR
    Thats what it was, a vacuum leak. One from the carb. $0.49 fix!!!
    Rooz
    What kind of fix was this? Did you have a busted vacuum line or was the base gasket bad or what? Mine does the same thing. Starts for about 2 seconds and dies; pump the gas 3-4 times again and starts and runs fine. Beginning to get old. I've closed the butterfly to tighter than within the spec and it may have helped a little, so I think it's probably a vac leak. I've found a couple on the car, but not lately so looking for any kind of help.

    Thanks!
    Pat
    .

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