well, our trannies were never designed to see more than 120hp. so i am sure they didn't expect people running 200+ hp at the wheels.Originally Posted by Accordtheory
well, our trannies were never designed to see more than 120hp. so i am sure they didn't expect people running 200+ hp at the wheels.Originally Posted by Accordtheory
Alex.
Originally Posted by 89turbo'ed
300 crank or WHP? im aiming for 15's this winter, and hopefully 13's next summer with elijahs help
WHP of course.as a guess you'ed need to put down at least 20 psi for 300 hp.Originally Posted by newaccorddriver
good luck with you'r project.
edit: I didn't mean to sound sarcastic.
Last edited by 89T; 01-12-2007 at 06:14 PM.
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
Originally Posted by 89turbo'ed
well, according to elijah, 300whp is nearly impossible to drive on a daily basis on an accord. he says 200whp is all i really need. im aiming for 200whp with my setup, and when i gather enough funds, im going to build his spare block, and use forged bottom end stuff along with his head. hopefully that would net me somewhere around 275-300whp. as far as stock bottom end goes, i think its hard to go over 200whp on it let alone 300whp
keep in mind accord epicenter ran a 13.7 with a stock car and a 3" tbe with dsm injectors and an safc. this is at around 11-13 psi i believe.
with a 2.5 second 60' or something rediculous like that on shitty 195 street tires.
I think that 13's in the 1/4 mile should be easily achievable with any kind of a tune, 10psi and decent tires.
I am sure you will meet your goals man, and good luck with the setup!
ummmm i think there should be a WA meet where we all bring parts to donate to my new turbo build :-D
yeah, when i did that i was on a completely stock 135k mile engine, and when i eventually did have problems with it, the compression was still 175 ish psi in all cyls, it was main bearing and oil pressure issues. It just goes to show you, that if you dont halfass your managemant and tune conservatively the engine should take 10-12psi easily. Ive hit as much as 17-18psi spikes a few times and it lived. The weak point in the bottom end is def the pistons but the rods i believe would be just fine if you shotpeen and replace the rod bolts to 300hp or so. Problem is, once you do all that machine work to the rods, you would have been better off getting eagle H beams for a modest price increase.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
man Epicenter....for stock that is damn good.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
i bought some aftermarket stocky like pistons. is there anything i can do to strengthen them?
for my spare block, when i get some decent coinage, its gonna recieve eagle rods, custom pistons, elijahs head if its not being used on my current block, and a host of other goodies.
only way to up the strengeth of the pistons is to cryo them
Originally Posted by ZackieDarko
dont they have to be forged to be cryoed? a guy that works in a performance shop told me that i couldnt cryo my stock pistons and rods because they were cast
Originally Posted by Accordtheory
why not cryo treat the tranny?
I don't think it matters what gear you're in, necessarily. The most force exerted on the teeth of the diff gear would be as soon as your tires grab, and the force on each other gear teeth dependent on their particular ratios and the torque of the motor at that rpm. I think 5th is just a weak gear in the a20 tranny.Originally Posted by 89turbo'ed
I also posted up on h-t about the fluid thing, maybe I'll learn something and be able to share it back over here.
Any ideas on this..?Originally Posted by Accordtheory
yeah our 5th gear...is not that strong.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Originally Posted by Accordtheory
god dam!!!!
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