11" REAR rotors + Bigger Calipers

[cygnus x-1]

are there any non hub over rotors that are 11" 25mm wide?

Not sure, but my guess is no. The 11" Prelude rotors that everyone uses for these conversions are 23mm thick. But, they should be ok with the 25T brackets.


If you want to figure out if it will be a problem here's what you can do. First measure the inside width of your brackets where the rotor would go through. My 23Ts measure out at 27mm.

Now take the minimum thickness of your rotor (the discard thickness would be safe) and add to that the thickness of the backing plates on your brake pads (add both of them). I'll be using 21mm rotors which have a discard thickness of 19mm. My brake pads have a backing plate thickness of 6.5mm, so both of them together would be 13mm.

13mm + 19mm = 32mm.

32mm is larger than 27mm, so even with the rotors at minimum thickness and the pads completely worn down to the backing plates, they still wouldn't be able to slip out of the bracket.

So if you're also using ITR calipers and the same (Autozone) pads I am, but with 23mm rotors and 25T brackets you should be fine as well. Your brackets will be 2mm wider, but so will your rotors.

And that's worst case. You shouldn't be running the pads and rotors down that much anyway.


C|

[Sickest3G]

No one has mentioned if the e-brake hooks up the same as stock or if modification is necessary.

[turabaka]

It's the same. No modifications

[Sickest3G]

Update bump.

[Legend_master]

It's the same. No modifications

This is true, it's almost identical to the stock location in regards to the e-brake. .

[Sickest3G]

Last thing you need to modify is metal brackets that keep the pads from moving back and forth. I had to remove the middle piece that hold it in place.





Here is what the pad look like without the caliper.



Final Product

so the only thing stopping this project from being a solid/safe driving car is the issue with the bracket. Legend you should take it back off to grind a little more from the inside of the caliper bracket like u did to fit the 11'' rotors. Let us know if that solves that problem.Im ready to do mine!

[Legend_master]

so the only thing stopping this project from being a solid/safe driving car is the issue with the bracket. Legend you should take it back off to grind a little more from the inside of the caliper bracket like u did to fit the 11'' rotors. Let us know if that solves that problem.Im ready to do mine!

That's not a possibility, if I grind anymore on the bracket I will end up inside the chamber where the caliper slider goes into.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

will spot welding the clip into place work

[Legend_master]

will spot welding the clip into place work

No, the problem is not that the clip moves (which it is partially suppose to do anyways). The biggest problem is that the clip contacts the outer edge of the rotor. Honestly the only solution would be to space the caliper out with a bracket, or take a MM or so off the rotors diameter.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

updates?

[Legend_master]

updates?

Sorry, but nope. I have not even had a working car to try this on. I'm sure there is a simple fix, but I don't know when I can pick this project back up.

[cygnus x-1]

By how much do you need to move the caliper out? If it's only 1-2mm you could simply elongate the mounting holes in the knuckle. It may sound sleazy but it would work just fine.


C|

[Legend_master]

By how much do you need to move the caliper out? If it's only 1-2mm you could simply elongate the mounting holes in the knuckle. It may sound sleazy but it would work just fine.


C|

My only fear is doing anything that is irreversible, SE-i hubs are already hard to come by.

[cygnus x-1]

My only fear is doing anything that is irreversible, SE-i hubs are already hard to come by.

I can understand that. Elongating the holes wouldn't be irreversible though. They could pretty easily be welded back up and filed round again.


C|

[Sickest3G]

Alright legend i think i have a solution. On friday i'll be buying the si rotors so what i had in mind to do was filling in the bolt holes with weld on the legend bracket and redrilling another set of holes a couple mm from the edge. I believe this would kill two birds with one stone and be easy to do cause all i'll be working with are the brackets. The first bird down would be the clip rubbing on the rotor. By creating enough space for not only the rotor to clear the clip but also allow the clip do what its inteded to do. The second bird down would be increasing the pad to rotor contact surface. I noticed that the pad was not making 100% contact on the rotor so by spacing out the bracket i will be adding contact surface. Maybe not 100% but definitely more than what showed on your pic. Legend, would you be able to take measurement of the amount of pad not touching the rotor surface? It would be helpful for determining how far from the edge i need to redrill the new holes. I would take the measurements my self on mine but i dont have the brakets or calipers yet.

[Legend_master]

Alright legend i think i have a solution. On friday i'll be buying the si rotors so what i had in mind to do was filling in the bolt holes with weld on the legend bracket and redrilling another set of holes a couple mm from the edge. I believe this would kill two birds with one stone and be easy to do cause all i'll be working with are the brackets. The first bird down would be the clip rubbing on the rotor. By creating enough space for not only the rotor to clear the clip but also allow the clip do what its inteded to do. The second bird down would be increasing the pad to rotor contact surface. I noticed that the pad was not making 100% contact on the rotor so by spacing out the bracket i will be adding contact surface. Maybe not 100% but definitely more than what showed on your pic. Legend, would you be able to take measurement of the amount of pad not touching the rotor surface? It would be helpful for determining how far from the edge i need to redrill the new holes. I would take the measurements my self on mine but i dont have the brakets or calipers yet.

I have no doubt that would solve the problem. Unfortunately I am not able to get to those parts at the present moment, so I can not take any measurements. Make sure you don't order factory SI rotors, as those are only 10.3". You need to get the 11" rotors from powerslot, or any other manufacturer that makes them.

[Sickest3G]

Why wont the 10.3's work? Wouldn't that size be better for the legend brakets?...Since there's an issue with how big the 11'' are. Have you or anyone else tried the 10.3 rotors with that application?

[Legend_master]

Why wont the 10.3's work? Wouldn't that size be better for the legend brakets?...Since there's an issue with how big the 11'' are. Have you or anyone else tried the 10.3 rotors with that application?

I have already tested this out. They are 2 small, or to big depending on which bracket you use.

[Oldblueaccord]

Is the pad rattle issue because the pads are not thick enough?

The make pad spacers or you could make some. Racers use them so to get full life out of brake pads and not have the caliper way out of the bore.

[Legend_master]

Is the pad rattle issue because the pads are not thick enough?

The make pad spacers or you could make some. Racers use them so to get full life out of brake pads and not have the caliper way out of the bore.

wp

There problem is that the pads are to big, we need a rotor that is 10.8" or 10.9". The 11" rotor is just slightly to big, and will not allow for the rattle brackets, and pads to be installed at the same time.

[Oldblueaccord]

Ah ok check yeah not as easy. SO the pads need to be farther away from the outside edge of the rotor. Might be able to get someone to turn .100" off the outside edge of the rotor on a lathe but then it is custom rotors.

[Legend_master]

Ah ok check yeah not as easy. SO the pads need to be farther away from the outside edge of the rotor. Might be able to get someone to turn .100" off the outside edge of the rotor on a lathe but then it is custom rotors.


wp

The ideal situation would be moving the caliper out just a slight bit. That would center the pad on the rotor perfectly, and allow us to have bolt on replacement parts for the caliper, pads, and rotors. The offset is perfect.

[H2289Acc]

First off, awesome work, Legend! 'Nuff props!

What if you were to modify the clip further? You could cut the top of the clip to make two flaps that would just wrap around the outside edges of the bracket to hold it in place. First, make a small cut down the center (maybe about an eighth of an inch in or more if there is enough material to allow for it), then from the end of that cut, make another cut at 90 degrees across the clip that falls another eighth or so short of each side. In effect the cuts would look like a "T" and you would end up with two flaps that you could bend around the outside of either side of the bracket to hold the clip in place. Not sure how the metal will respond to being bent like that as it may break, but it's worth a shot. I know it sounds pretty ghetto, but I think it would work in terms of preventing the clip from sliding around and contacting the rotor.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

have you looked into rsx/ep3 rear calipers? i know we did a big brake rear convirsion on my buddys eg and we used those calipers

[ShyBoyCA6]

Any updates on this Legend?