1982 Accord LX Hatch 5-speed

[Projekt82]

So I got this thing for free from a friend's friend, mainly because she didn't know crap about a car. After a little maint., it was running fine again. I'm doing a bit of research on the ride to see what's possible.

Maint:

Complete fluid change (oil, MTF, coolant)
All motor mounts replaced (both ends of dogbone, both side inserts, and front mount)
Air filter
Alignment
Smog check

Pics













My daily grind is an S2000, so that will be the bar to set for this car at the time attack. At <2200lbs it's at an advantage so far, since my Honda Challenge S2k comes in at 2670 wet. Any feedback is appreciated.

I did read through some of the thread and it mentioned that only one person on here actually has an '82 model. This would make me the 2nd?

I whore a couple of other forums as well, mainly Honda-tech, S2ki (S2000 international), and S2000turbo.

[MessyHonda]

man that car is hot...at least it went to a honda guy. wut are you plans with it?

[teck]

hot car, good shape...your on s2ki?? hate to admit but my mom has s2000 also and is on that site

[denhonda]

I guess a respray will be on the cards? Looks to have good potential judging by the rear arches which look pristine with original spot welds; mine had long since rotted away so had to be replaced.

I'm waiting on a set of Koni adjustables arriving to try & improve the ride & roadholding of my car & I'll have to think about what to do to with the springs. I'd like to renew all the suspension bushes with Polyflex ones too (if they do them).

Will be great to see your motor again once its all spruced up !

[2oodoor]

not bad for the price aye

motor trans swap ftw, k OR aspirate it

cool find

[MessyHonda]

sweet now you can swap a a20 engine into it...and that thing would rock your pants.

[2ndGenGuy]

You can swap an A20 if you wanna make some mounts, and cut up your front crossmember.

If you wanna improve your time on the track, pick up a set of Koni's for it on ClassicGarage.com. I think a whole set is like $60. There are also some B&G lowering springs that a few sites have, and Addco supposedly makes a front and rear swaybar for the 2nd gen hatches. I don't know if they'll work on the 82-83 models though...

Also, I've got a head that you can swap onto that block, it's all been refurbished at the machine shop. It will raise your compression, and eliminates the CVCC. Drucifer was supposed to buy it from me, but I haven't heard from him in weeks... Let me know if you're interested.

Engine mods aren't easy to come by for those engines, about all there is, other than the head swap, is a Weber carb. If you're lucky you might find some headers for it. Otherwise you'll be fabbin up your own stuff.

[Projekt82]

man that car is hot...at least it went to a honda guy. wut are you plans with it?

Thanks. Always been a Honda guy, and I've always been lookin for a classic to work on.

hot car, good shape...your on s2ki?? hate to admit but my mom has s2000 also and is on that site

Thanks. Is your mom's name Patty?

I guess a respray will be on the cards? Looks to have good potential judging by the rear arches which look pristine with original spot welds; mine had long since rotted away so had to be replaced.

I'm waiting on a set of Koni adjustables arriving to try & improve the ride & roadholding of my car & I'll have to think about what to do to with the springs. I'd like to renew all the suspension bushes with Polyflex ones too (if they do them).

Will be great to see your motor again once its all spruced up !

A respray is in the works. I have a setup in my garage which consists of 2 HVLP spray guns, air purifier and full containment. Since the model comes in 3 colors, I'd have to pick that or a newer Honda color.

sweet now you can swap a a20 engine into it...and that thing would rock your pants.

You can swap an A20 if you wanna make some mounts, and cut up your front crossmember.

If you wanna improve your time on the track, pick up a set of Koni's for it on ClassicGarage.com. I think a whole set is like $60. There are also some B&G lowering springs that a few sites have, and Addco supposedly makes a front and rear swaybar for the 2nd gen hatches. I don't know if they'll work on the 82-83 models though...

Also, I've got a head that you can swap onto that block, it's all been refurbished at the machine shop. It will raise your compression, and eliminates the CVCC. Drucifer was supposed to buy it from me, but I haven't heard from him in weeks... Let me know if you're interested.

Engine mods aren't easy to come by for those engines, about all there is, other than the head swap, is a Weber carb. If you're lucky you might find some headers for it. Otherwise you'll be fabbin up your own stuff.

I'm looking at either the ES or ET series 1.8 carb'd with the sidedrafts, this downdraft is pissing me off. =P The A20 would be nice, but I would rather stay carb'd and keep it gangsta.

The car just made it back from a 2.5 hour canyon cruise, with no problems whatsoever. All vacumm lines and coolant lines will be replaced with braided PVC hoses, since i noticed a bit of cracking here and there


Thanks for the comments guy. Hopefully this will be a fun project.

[Ichiban]

If you're serious about this, we should collaborate. I'm putting an a20 into my hatch, and there are a few minor issues, like motor mounts, and where the exhaust should go.

If you like red, R48M is a nice original base/clear that honda used.

[MessyHonda]

I'm looking at either the ES or ET series 1.8 carb'd with the sidedrafts, this downdraft is pissing me off. =P The A20 would be nice, but I would rather stay carb'd and keep it gangsta.



Thanks for the comments guy. Hopefully this will be a fun project.

you can run carbs off a20....look at this one

320hp a20

[Projekt82]

you can run carbs off a20....look at this one

320hp a20

*spooges* That motor costs as much as my budget for the restoration. I still have to find the right suspension combo, replace all bushings, and do a complete tune up to catch everything I've missed. Trying to get as blank a slate as I can to start with.

If you're serious about this, we should collaborate. I'm putting an a20 into my hatch, and there are a few minor issues, like motor mounts, and where the exhaust should go.

If you like red, R48M is a nice original base/clear that honda used.

I would love to learn more about this chassis, since I have to take it back to basics, brainwashed for so long with all this S2000 nonsense. xD

How different are the A20 motormounts? As far as exhaust placement, does the 85+ crossmember bolt on for the front-side exhaust manifold? I was told theres an aftermarket piece as well... *shrugs*, though I'd rather stick to OEM.

Red's a no-go... shows too much damage. I'll probably go back to the original, or something newer and closer like Silverstone Metallic, since I still have a couple quarts left from my last spray.

[Projekt82]

You can swap an A20 if you wanna make some mounts, and cut up your front crossmember.

If you wanna improve your time on the track, pick up a set of Koni's for it on ClassicGarage.com. I think a whole set is like $60. There are also some B&G lowering springs that a few sites have, and Addco supposedly makes a front and rear swaybar for the 2nd gen hatches. I don't know if they'll work on the 82-83 models though...

Also, I've got a head that you can swap onto that block, it's all been refurbished at the machine shop. It will raise your compression, and eliminates the CVCC. Drucifer was supposed to buy it from me, but I haven't heard from him in weeks... Let me know if you're interested.

Engine mods aren't easy to come by for those engines, about all there is, other than the head swap, is a Weber carb. If you're lucky you might find some headers for it. Otherwise you'll be fabbin up your own stuff.

Thanks for the suspension link. Konis would be perfect.

You say the head is a direct swap? Got a nice carb with some velocity stacks to go with that? I'm going to have to tear it down soon for a refresher, so... let me know what you're asking for the head.

[A18A]

I would rather stay carb'd and keep it gangsta.

[MessyHonda]

lol that thing is going to be nice after you are finished with it..

[2ndGenGuy]

Thanks for the suspension link. Konis would be perfect.
You say the head is a direct swap? Got a nice carb with some velocity stacks to go with that? I'm going to have to tear it down soon for a refresher, so... let me know what you're asking for the head.

I don't have any carbs to go with it, but I'm sure if you look a little bit you'll find something that will work. If you decide to keep the block, and really do want this head, it's $250 + shipping.

But if you're going to swap to a different engine, you won't want this head. Though, you'll run into some challenges with that swap, as guyhatesmycar will illustrate.

[Projekt82]

Hmmm... back to the drawing board. =T

As far as the motor.. anything would help. 75hp makes me want to cry :cry:
Drivetrain wise, the transmission is solid. Gates are still defined, no slop, and the clutch has probably... half it's life left (I readjusted the cable as well).

Would the 3-bbl work on the head that you have?

[2ndGenGuy]

I'm not sure how well that 3bbl would work. Its designed to shoot a rich mixture into the pre-chamber, then a lean mixture into the main chamber... I think, or it could be backwards. Either way, if you're going to put this head on, you'd be best off with a Weber, since you can tune it better. ($100 will get you a used one + $10 for a rebuild kit.) Or I have a couple stock carbs and an intake and exhaust manifold for that head. Though your exhaust manifold should work. You might want my intake manifold and one of my carbs along with it.

[Projekt82]

I'm looking at a couple Weber 40mm and 45mm, and I'm leaning towards the 40mm.

Package deal? Head, IM for Webers, and EM that fits.

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah we could work a deal. The inatake manifold is the OEM one. It will take the adapter plate that will allow you to install the DGV / DGS series carbs, or any other Weber with a compatible mounting flange.

The 40 and 45mm Weber's you're looking at will require custom made adapters or intake manifolds. However, they will probably give you the best performance. Which ones are you looking at specifically?

[Ichiban]

*spooges* That motor costs as much as my budget for the restoration. I still have to find the right suspension combo, replace all bushings, and do a complete tune up to catch everything I've missed. Trying to get as blank a slate as I can to start with.
I would love to learn more about this chassis, since I have to take it back to basics, brainwashed for so long with all this S2000 nonsense. xD
How different are the A20 motormounts? As far as exhaust placement, does the 85+ crossmember bolt on for the front-side exhaust manifold? I was told theres an aftermarket piece as well... *shrugs*, though I'd rather stick to OEM.
Red's a no-go... shows too much damage. I'll probably go back to the original, or something newer and closer like Silverstone Metallic, since I still have a couple quarts left from my last spray.

Here's a quick rundown:

The A20 engine tranny combo will bolt to the rear mount no problem, and you can swap the top drivers mount on the engine side with the original to match the car. You have to pull the timing cover to change the mounts on the block, but with the engine out of the car its like a 10 minute job. The original front mount can easily be modified with a bit of plate and welding to bolt to the A20 block, for me, another 20ish minute job. (if i mod one soon, i might as well do 2 and send you one.

Axles/tranny: You have a few options here. 2.5 gens, 3 gens and 2 gen preludes shared a tranny family, with 2 notable differences: splines and clutches. 2gen accords from 84-85 (your early 2gen tranny is junk, different bellhousing) and A18 preludes used a 200mm clutch and a small spline axleshaft. FI preludes and 3gen accords used a 212mm clutch and larger diameter splines on the axleshafts. You can use the small spline/clutch tranny to match your axleshafts, or you can use the large spline/clutch tranny, 85 Se-i accord axleshafts, Accord Se-i/prelude Si wheelbearings and Accord Se-i/Prelude Si hubs. This will adapt your car to the larger spline size on the transmission. You could also make a "bastard shaft" by using your original axles and the larger spline inner cups. I don't believe this is a good idea, if you really want to know why, I'll mock it up, take a picture and send it to you.

Exhaust: Here's where things get silly. The early 2 gen was never meant to have a front exhaust engine, so theres no clearance to run it behind the crossmember. The manifold points right at the middle of the beam. The 84-85 crossmember is about 5/8" too long at each end to bolt to the car, so this option is out for now. I've been thinking about narrowing the later model crossmember, but it has to be very precise as it inevitably locates the front wheels. I've been considering modifying a set of pacesetter headers at the flange so they point more towards the radiator at the bottom, and then fabbing up the downpipe to clear in front of the crossmember. I would expect to have to notch out the x member to accomplish this.

I haven't heard of any aftermarket piece to facilitate this swap. If there is, get 2, I need one.

Hope this helps, the 82 hatch is an amazingly fun car to drive, and any mods will be well worth it. I should know, I have one.

[Projekt82]

Here's a quick rundown:

The A20 engine tranny combo will bolt to the rear mount no problem, and you can swap the top drivers mount on the engine side with the original to match the car. You have to pull the timing cover to change the mounts on the block, but with the engine out of the car its like a 10 minute job. The original front mount can easily be modified with a bit of plate and welding to bolt to the A20 block, for me, another 20ish minute job. (if i mod one soon, i might as well do 2 and send you one.

Sweet! Let me know what's worth your troubles.

Axles/tranny: You have a few options here. 2.5 gens, 3 gens and 2 gen preludes shared a tranny family, with 2 notable differences: splines and clutches. 2gen accords from 84-85 (your early 2gen tranny is junk, different bellhousing) and A18 preludes used a 200mm clutch and a small spline axleshaft. FI preludes and 3gen accords used a 212mm clutch and larger diameter splines on the axleshafts. You can use the small spline/clutch tranny to match your axleshafts, or you can use the large spline/clutch tranny, 85 Se-i accord axleshafts, Accord Se-i/prelude Si wheelbearings and Accord Se-i/Prelude Si hubs. This will adapt your car to the larger spline size on the transmission. You could also make a "bastard shaft" by using your original axles and the larger spline inner cups. I don't believe this is a good idea, if you really want to know why, I'll mock it up, take a picture and send it to you.

I understood that, amazingly. You just told me almost everything I needed to know. ANd I'll stay away from the bastard shaft. =P

Exhaust: Here's where things get silly. The early 2 gen was never meant to have a front exhaust engine, so theres no clearance to run it behind the crossmember. The manifold points right at the middle of the beam. The 84-85 crossmember is about 5/8" too long at each end to bolt to the car, so this option is out for now. I've been thinking about narrowing the later model crossmember, but it has to be very precise as it inevitably locates the front wheels. I've been considering modifying a set of pacesetter headers at the flange so they point more towards the radiator at the bottom, and then fabbing up the downpipe to clear in front of the crossmember. I would expect to have to notch out the x member to accomplish this.

I haven't heard of any aftermarket piece to facilitate this swap. If there is, get 2, I need one.

Hope this helps, the 82 hatch is an amazingly fun car to drive, and any mods will be well worth it. I should know, I have one.

I might just chop and weld like what this guy did to his AE86 for the crossmember. I can do a lil welding.



As far as driving fun, I believe you. I did take this thing up on to Ortega Hwy a few days a go....

[Civic Accord Honda]

HOT looks just like my old one same color and every thing i really miss it... if you ever want to sale it hit me up and i will come up with the money somwhow

[Projekt82]

Hahahaha sorry I don't plan to sell it any time soon. After the restoration maybe, because then hopefully it could claim a higher price. First things first.

Over the weekend I removed the moldings and trims to find minimal rust undernearth. A little sanding on Saturday... OK 4 hours of sanding later, I managed to remove most of the rust from the outer body panels. Sunday came the rest of the body's half-flaking paint. Manage to take it down to primer in a short 6 hours. 3 cans of automotive gray primer after that, it went back into the garage. Trying to see if I can set up my booth and give it a few coats this coming weekend, which means it has to stay in the garage til then. Good thing theres another horse in the stable.

[2ndGenGuy]

Sweet man. Document that with some pictures along the way... always nice to see progress on a 2nd gen!

[offthahook]

That car is in great shape! Obviously it sat outside by the looks of the rusty engine parts, but the sheet metal looks really good. I think the 82 and 83 Accords rusted the worst out of all the Hondas. Seems like they all rotted. Your car looks dirty, but it seems intact and should clean up really nice. I will vouch that 2ndgenguy has a nice non CVCC head that would bolt right up. There are some threads with pictures on here. Prep that car right and keep it gray or silver unless you do the door jambs, interior hatch, engine bay, etc. It looks so ghetto when people do a decent spray, but change the color too much and don't do anything else. I bet your hoses are rotted by the looks of the engine. It can all be cleaned though. Nice find.