Mike, do you still have a weber adapter laying around? Preferrably an unmodded one.
Mike, do you still have a weber adapter laying around? Preferrably an unmodded one.
I sold or gave it away... someone has it... and a free weber carb I thinkhehe.
- llia
Roo, which Weber is that? The throttle is on the opposite side from the DGV types. Here's mine: (38/38)
C|
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1
you can always turn the weber around...
- llia
sure doesnt look like yours cygnus, you have some geary looking sec. linkage.
It was a kit for a Mazdatruck, it runs good most of the time,
Im learning a bit about picture posting, I really need some real camera pic, all mine are cell phone. I need to show a better view of where actual cable connection to linkage.lol
Re: How many Weber carbs can we use?
so would a rochester adapter fit our mani's cause i was told they do?
Last edited by hondaman1986; 03-03-2007 at 08:44 PM.
you can always turn the weber around...
But then the cable would have to come from the rear not the front. Well maybe there are different versions of throttle configurations then.
Mine has a geared secondary because it's synchronous instead of progressive. Both throttle plates open at the same time.
As for a rochester, I'm sure one could be made to fit but I'm pretty sure there is no adapter that would fit without at least some modification.
C|
yea and i have no problem with modding a plate so thanks for the imput all
I finally got a 32/36 DGEV Weber, rebuild kit, adapter plate, linkage kit. It looks like the rebuild kit don't come with much. (no instructions, just a break down) Guess my rebuild will be basically a "cleaning job" for it. Anyway, nice little weekend project doing that.
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Yeah I thought the same thing when I rebuilt my 5200. Thought it was going to be all complicated and have a million little parts. It's basically a cleaning and resealing.
this is a VERY simple carb to overhaul, but you must make sure it is VERY clean, I have one Im building now too. I really want something else so I may sell it after it is done and tested.
ddude2uc I do hope you will post your jet and emulsion tube sizes in the carb tech sticky, even if they may not be what you keep in there.. it will help all of us know what has been used with what mods on the engine. There are dozens of combinations that can be used with those.
As for dual DGV type carbs, progressive, I don't thing that is a good way to go, the 38/38 maybe yes but not the 5200/ 32/36 style. The jury is still out on that IMO, Im looking at other 4 cyl forums for ideas. It would be extremley hard to sychronize those.
The Holley 2300 series looks like it would be an interesting carb to look into, as you can get the cool new metering blocks same as the four barrel. I would even consider a four barrel, only because of the high cost of DCOE's.
This carb is labeled as DGAV, looks like someone put electric choke on it.
This carb looks to have stock components on all the jets & emulsion tubes. Got it broke down, should have it together by tomm. Overall, it seems pretty easy to rebuild, much easier than rebuilding the OEM Keihin carb.
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all of those brass jets and tubes have numbers stamped on them, you may want to jot those down. They also most likely are different numbers on the left and right (primary, secondary) so you don't want to mix them up even though the look exactly the same practically.
I took note of the numbers. The primary & secondary idle & corrector jets have different numbers. I did notice the rebuild kit came with a bigger needle valve. The old one was stamped 200 while the kit came with 250, guess it lets more fuel in the bowl under heavy acceleration.
I went ahead and knocked this rebuild out tonight. It has new accelerator pump diaphragm. Just need to install the new linkage.
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How does she run ddude2uc
I went over this thead again, and the weber I have is a DFEV, that is why it mounts backwards than everybody else's.
The one I just got recently is a DGV.
After reading some other forums and seeing how this thing works I am convinced that a regulator should be used even with the 32/36, even though weber says you don't have to.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 04-05-2008 at 01:02 PM.
I don't have it on there yet roodoo2, been waiting on my slow ass father-in-law to sand blast my pacesetter header. I want to get my exhaust on there first, then put the weber on last. Also, I been busy working on other people's cars on the weekends & studying up for my next ASE test coming up in May. I've been driving my truck & the Accord is parked for now, hopefully I'll get my exhaust & weber put on before June. I'll pop some pics when it happens.
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I was looking at some info about plugging off the hi speed enrichment from the power valve. Apparently it makes tuning with AFM immpossible because it randomly dumps fuel in the mixture. There seems to be a more accurate means of rejetting by doing this, with very positive results.
ok so after eading this i'm assuming that doing a webber swap is quite the pain in the ass. i'm really new to cars so should i take this on with my daily driver?
sure is easier than monkeying around with that oem carb, if you are going to keep the car a while I highly recommend the swap. It is really easy especially with the extra tips on this forum.
It's really easy. It took me awhile to do it, because I took the intake manifold off, and ported it. The power difference is unbelievable. Plus there's a nice noise to go with it.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
is there a way to do the swap without an adapter? i'm really low on cash and i dont want to end up with a carb i'll never use.
truth is , you do not need to do all the stuff you see everyone here doing , port matching blah blah, you can approach it from an OEM best choice replacement standpoint. When all these Asian carbs (Datsun, Toyota, Mazda, etc ) started giving trouble back in the late 80's, Holley and Weber both offered replacment options which was this Weber 32/36 esssentially. So that beiing said, if you are keeping this car, and you need to be getting good MPG, you can not go wrong with investing in the Weber swap. It is pretty simple and comes in a kit form with all you need to make it go. The things you see here on the forum are for tweaking, tuning, and car lovers... The initial Honda kit is a direct bolt up, turn key, plug and play ordeal.
you could do it without the adapter, but you'd have to fill in the old holes, and drill and tap new ones. It's easier to just get the adapter. As for the port matching. You don't have to do it, but if you get a 38/38 you should probably do it anyway to make both ports the same size.
Last edited by turabaka; 05-02-2008 at 09:00 AM.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
can you do that with self tapping screws? a lot of the stuff im doing is gonna have to be super ghetto but reliable
Last edited by oscwrestler; 05-02-2008 at 10:05 AM.
and i have an auto. i saw somewhere that you need to do some modding to make them work with an auto.
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