alright i realize that the b18/b16 intake manifold fits on our cars with modification, but has anyone seen this??
theyre from TWM Induction, comes complete with vacuum hookups, fuel rail, linkage, injectors. the only holdup? $2306.00 US complete setup. And you would need to swap to obd-1 hondata or something to that effect...just throwin it out there guys.
Originally Posted by 2drSE-i
alright i realize that the b18/b16 intake manifold fits on our cars with modification, but has anyone seen this??
theyre from TWM Induction, comes complete with vacuum hookups, fuel rail, linkage, injectors. the only holdup? $2306.00 US complete setup. And you would need to swap to obd-1 hondata or something to that effect...just throwin it out there guys.
I could have one built for under a grand (not including shipping) that would bolt directly onto the a20 head. You would still have to figure out the tuning for yourself.
52mm just sounds ridiculously huge tho. would be good for a shit ton of power though.
pretty fucking cool!
someone should try these and see how they work out on a nicely balanced high compression a20.
yes bobafett, i also think you should try it (or is yours lower compression, i cant remember lmao.)
you need some sort of programamble ecu to run these or at least thats what ive always been told. stock efi system in a no-no.
theyre good for high reving motors so if someone builds a perfect a20 that can go 8-9k on the regular these would be a must.
8.46:1 CR...will come in handy eventually.. lol
dam that would be really sweet!
I thought about doing this on my b20 since I need an intake manifold anyway, but im still undecided. I dont know if I want to go the ITB route or just an aftermarket b16 manifold
I dunno, if you compare with carbs then yeah but carbs operate on vacuum, if you oversize them your low end can suffer. You don't need to worry about that with EFI, I think the more critical part for the ITB setup would be the runner diameter, runner taper, and the runner length, then it's a matter of tunning the fuel system and stand-alone.
- llia
wats up bro just to let u know i wanted one of these for the longest for my b20a buit motor if u get one made under 500 ill surly buy it im 100 percent down
rhd restoration 2nd gen prelude
The more parts you get me the cheaper ti will be for you. Factory manifold, bike FI system, velocity stacks, ETC.... My local shop around here has built a couple so far and they work great. Price will also vary depending on what OBD you plan to run. If you are going to run the factory TPS, injectors, map sensor, and that crap. I have extra a20's laying around to mock them up on, but I have no b20's. YOu will have to figure out your own tuning and possibly have someone adjust the TPS for you. PM me if your really interested.
Thats not a bad price considering it comes complete with everything except the engine. If you add up cost of aftermraket fuel rail, reg, injectors, linkage etc. thats hlaf the price of that, then you have cost of a big bore TB adn then cost of aftermarket plenum too and it's starting to look good price wise. Yes the Bike ones are easier to get hold off and cheaper, but they are bit harder to fit on as the inlet manifold has to be custom made, and then the bore spacing on the ITB's are normally at 80mm or less so you have to have curved runners where as Weber DCOE's or ITB equivalents are 90mm bore spacing which is exactly the same on all 2.0 or less Honda engines. Webers are $1800-2000 new with an inlet manifold custom made. And to be honest if you bought a normal ITB setup with the DCOE style fit you'd still be looking at about $3-400 for inlet manifold, then $6-1000 for a pair of ITB's depending on type and size, then cost of fuel rails, injectors, FPR, linkage, etc. The size is pretty big so with the other ITB's you can choose smaller sizes to suit your needs, you can even get slide bodies or roller barrels which will give you bit more oomph but were only talking a few bhp but the size isn't as important as it's injected and injection doesn't rely on high air speed to work properly, with ECU control ITB's even large ones can deliver a very good low end powerband depending on cams. But with Carbs they fall down on large bores because they rely on the high air speed velocity to suck the fuel down and then to mix it. Fine for full pm race apps where the revs never die but around town a pain in the arese!!
i got anoither set of honda 954 itbs which has the honda tps on it. if i get bored about they will go on my motor (with the turbo!)
Style Quality Uniqueness And Design
S.Q.U.A.D. Engineering
www.squadengineering.com
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The more parts you get me the cheaper ti will be for you. Factory manifold, bike FI system, velocity stacks, ETC.... My local shop around here has built a couple so far and they work great. Price will also vary depending on what OBD you plan to run. If you are going to run the factory TPS, injectors, map sensor, and that crap. I have extra a20's laying around to mock them up on, but I have no b20's. YOu will have to figure out your own tuning and possibly have someone adjust the TPS for you. PM me if your really interested
well if u point me in the right direction on where to get these parts cause telln me is hard i need to c where and i wil get started on it right way
rhd restoration 2nd gen prelude
2300 dollars? thats slightly this side of insanity..
I still think the best way is to grab a set of bike ITB's and with them to an A20 flange. More like a set of 48mm bodies. It will require more fab then redrilling the B-series ITB, but it will save you lots of money. Tuning goes you can run them on a MAP system but they can be a bitch, and I can't see these running to good on our OBD-0 ECU. Something I'd be into is welding a plentum to a set of ITB's and boost it.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
i am considering it for the future. ive been following this guys setup on honda-tech, thats what he did.
Style Quality Uniqueness And Design
S.Q.U.A.D. Engineering
www.squadengineering.com
http://www.facebook.com/squadengineering
I still think the best way is to grab a set of bike ITB's and with them to an A20 flange. More like a set of 48mm bodies. It will require more fab then redrilling the B-series ITB, but it will save you lots of money. Tuning goes you can run them on a MAP system but they can be a bitch, and I can't see these running to good on our OBD-0 ECU. Something I'd be into is welding a plentum to a set of ITB's and boost it.
this is what i want to do except the boost part but i dont seem to really inderstand how to do it confused
rhd restoration 2nd gen prelude
ah I'm stupid "weld" the bike ITB's to an A20 flange................
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
NSX ITB'S
- llia
Thats just pure sex.
More ITB setups... this one has and extra TBI which probably gives it really good mixing of fuel and added richness.
awesome F1 ITBs in action... just the motor on dyno, no car.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/6...c95b0c3293.htm
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- llia
You'd probably have approximately the coolest 3g around to pop the hood and show off some sick ITB's with what look like some sweet short velocity stacks. I'm sure they'd sound extremely nasty (good) too. I'd kill for them, stuck N/A as I am. But I doubt I'd make much more power (after tuning), despite my mods, than my already-solid manifold, unless I could somehow manage like 9000rpm.
Injectors and so on, and SAFC would be fine if you took it to someplace like Innovative Tuning and got it tuned. You'd need to get a vacuum block for it/with it to run what vacuum lines are needed (more than the little vacuum canister slapped on top of it). Obd1 w/Crome is obviously better. But you if you just spent $2k on ITB's, you might be breaking the bank. lol
oooh they're so beautiful
bury the bach.
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach
It that A black wire? by the crank pully on that motor? looks like audio cables you see at events where they hook up massive speakers and such.
- llia
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