just got out of the booth an hour ago

[lostforawhile]

probably some more primer tomorrow,sanded today got the body ready for primer tomorrow

[gp02a0083]

thats the old booth we use for primer,the one we use for paint is a new seiko downdraft heated booth

those are very nice booths , so far out of the limited years of experiance ive had (5 years now with paint and body) ive worked in some crummy and some excellent conditions ranging from a garage with bwoth doors open and a single fan to get overspray away to a nice new heated down draft booth (even with tile floors FTW lol) nice seein the car stripped down , ur still going to have it panda right?

[lostforawhile]

those are very nice booths , so far out of the limited years of experiance ive had (5 years now with paint and body) ive worked in some crummy and some excellent conditions ranging from a garage with bwoth doors open and a single fan to get overspray away to a nice new heated down draft booth (even with tile floors FTW lol) nice seein the car stripped down , ur still going to have it panda right?

yea it's still going to be panda. I'm going to try and get some primer sprayed tomorrow night. had to do a bunch of sanding. now that I can see what the original greek actually looks like,I think it's going to be a nice color. all the yellow tint to the white is all clearcoat. it's actually a bright white,the malox color everyone refers to,is actually a product of the old honda clearcoat that yellows. I think they had a problem with the clearcoat on all the cars yellowing in the eighties. it's just more noticeable on a white finish.

[gp02a0083]

yea it's still going to be panda. I'm going to try and get some primer sprayed tomorrow night. had to do a bunch of sanding. now that I can see what the original greek actually looks like,I think it's going to be a nice color. all the yellow tint to the white is all clearcoat. it's actually a bright white,the malox color everyone refers to,is actually a product of the old honda clearcoat that yellows. I think they had a problem with the clearcoat on all the cars yellowing in the eighties. it's just more noticeable on a white finish.

exactly, my 86 olds was the stock white color , had a yellow tint, probally b/c of the aging process, old clear coat will yellow and do some funkey stuff im not shure if they still used laquer for new cars back then i know common defects are crows feet (checkerboards or scales in the paint),
my advice when you spray the bottom of the car and the lower parts of the bumpers use a "ruberizer" or flex agent typically thats what i use for the drift cars ive been painting they have been holding up very well, espically im suprised around the rear wheel wells. i use about 2 to 4 capfuls of flex to one full mix of clear coat in one of the PPG mixing cups. good luck

[lostforawhile]

exactly, my 86 olds was the stock white color , had a yellow tint, probally b/c of the aging process, old clear coat will yellow and do some funkey stuff im not shure if they still used laquer for new cars back then i know common defects are crows feet (checkerboards or scales in the paint),
my advice when you spray the bottom of the car and the lower parts of the bumpers use a "ruberizer" or flex agent typically thats what i use for the drift cars ive been painting they have been holding up very well, espically im suprised around the rear wheel wells. i use about 2 to 4 capfuls of flex to one full mix of clear coat in one of the PPG mixing cups. good luck

well the bumpers are black,I used the nappa tec flexible primer on them,then I used the duplicolor bumper coating, it gives them the original plastic look and seems to hold up pretty well. on the bottom half of my rear bumper,I used gravel guard,that goes under the paint. just under the lower section and around the bottom edges.