Alright, how do I hook up this dashpot that comes with it? Also am I to assume that this ECU will ignore the emissions stuff regardless of whether or not they are installed?
Thanks!
do you have a picture of it?
code 11 means faulty idle mixture adjuster or it is diconnected.
you may want to download paul's manual or IM me and i can send you a copy of it.
You probably will have to redo all the vacuum lines and sensors.
check the wirring harness and make sure that pins are in right spots.
here is what the wirring diagram says:
pin number: B20 Is (+) ; C12 (-); and C13 (+)
measure voltage between C13 and C12. you should get between 4.75-5.25V
now measure between B20 and C12. you should get 0.3-4.9V.
in the black box find idle mixture sensor. measure the resistance between terminals while adjusting the sensor. It should be between 0.25-6.2Kohm. if not, replace the sensor.
Last edited by shepherd79; 03-19-2007 at 01:53 PM.
Alex.
Ah, that dashpot I haven't hooked up yet. Surprise surprise.
The only pin that needs to be moved is the idle air control valve, which hasn't worked for ages. I'll build an adapter harness that will fix both problems soon. I dropped the ECU in straight and it ran like a champ. I noticed a bit of extra power... nothing immense, no Mustang whoopin horsepowers, but the engine felt "better". I didn't feel like I had to force it anymore. It also sounded a lot smoother. I'm sure that's because it wasn't complaining about the non-working EGR system for one.
Also my car had this strange tendency to want to drive on the left side of the road... odd.
hey I am glad you got the car running with that ECU. weird that just plugging it in got it to run properly.If I had tried that I may not have sold it so fast lol...
Keep us posted for sure! I am really curious how much emissions garbage you can eliminate with the ECU still being compliant!
what dashport are you talking about? what does it do?
Alex.
There is a variable resistor that has a supposed idle mixture adjustment set screw. This is more than likely the component that is causing the CEL.
Once he gets that plugged in he will be all set (i hope)...
I am going to build an adapter harness for the ECU to handle the dashpot and the pin(s) that need to be moved around. Should be a cinch to get straight. I'll also undo the hacked wiring for my AFC and run that through the harness as well.Originally Posted by bobafett
I wonder if the A/F ratio gauge will still bounce around like a crackhead...
So far I am loving the ECU.
hey Chris I see you passed on the ecu, are you going with obd1 instead?
Sabz, I think I sent chris all the information needed about that ecu so if he gave you that you should be set. Now just need to go rip out some vacuum lines and other useless crap.
Yeah I decided that I didn't want to hack up my harness once just to get this ECU in there, only to redo all of my work when I jump to OBD1 for the 'actual' tune.There is no way the A20A4 will be tunable to meet my turbo needs, but I was hoping to get the NA break in done with that ECU. But then I moved and just didnt have time to deal with it.
I thought I sent the papers in envelope, but its possible that they are hanging out in my garage still lol.
Explain something to me...Originally Posted by thegreatdane
WTF is "Stegt Hotdog", "Rod Hotdog" and "Fransk Hotdog"?
Abiningstilbud?
All I see is a black hotdog with an afro and some bling, an Indian hotdog with a tomahawk and war paint, and what I am guessing is a French hot dog.
haha what are you reading the newspapers for lolOriginally Posted by Sabz5150
I'm not too familiar with english hotdog lingo but here's the direct translations.
"Stegt Hotdog" : roasted hotdog/sausage
"Rod Hotdog" : Red hotdog/sausage (a popular sausage here)
"Fransk Hotdog" : French hotdog, yum![]()
Abningstilbud : Opening offer/special
Ok well that makes sense if you ever get that turbo slapped on :pOriginally Posted by bobafett
Originally Posted by Sabz5150
If you have regualr aftermarket gauge than yes it will jump around. They are useless in daily driving. they only work in WOT position.
Alex.
Originally Posted by Sabz5150
yeah too bad they are not cheap.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
cheaper than a new/rebuilt engine!
j/y FTW
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
blowing up poorly tuned junkyard motors ftl!
heheh
Originally Posted by bobafett
well i lied....i got mine for free....i want to rebuild it but then....that is like 2k that i dont have
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
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