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Thread: Project B20A

  1. #1

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    Project B20A

    This thread will be where I will post all pics and info as I go from prepping the block to the final install. It will be sort of gradual since I'm not planning to finish this right away but it will get updated as I go along. Please post all comments and questions here and not this one to keep things simple.

    Anyways, I finally had time to get the engine up on my stand yesterday. It's an 88/89 style JDM B20A with auto tranny drive plate. The pic attached shows the condition of it as I bought it. Dirty and very greasy in some spots. Kind of looked like it needed a valve cover gasket. Oil pan was scraped a bit but nothing serious and all the accessory stuff (PS pump, A/C compressor, alt, distributor) were missing. I was told by the engine importer/wrecker I bought it from that the engine oil was drained so I brought it home in my trunk. When I got home, I noticed some oil on the cardboard I had layed down on the bottom of the trunk. Turns out the oil was still in there and it was even at the proper level. Good thing it didn't all leak out. Luckly, my trunk liner is black so no stains and I had a good look at the oil when draining it. A bit dirty but no signs of coolant contamination.
    Last edited by YK86; 09-23-2002 at 08:32 PM.
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  2. #2

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    I took off the exhaust manifold, timing belt cover and belt and gave it a good scrub down using Castrol Super Clean. I got most of the front clean and the hard to reach parts in the back I will do after taking the intake manifold and head off. I have a new water pump and oil pump so I didn't care about cleaning that area for now. I washed it on the grass so I wouldn't make a mess on the the driveway but now I'll probably have toxic chemicals and oil seep into my drinking water LOL.
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    Here is almost all the stuff needed for the swap (axles and intermediate shaft is missing from the pic) in one part of my garage. Mike Lee's powder coated valve cover will make this engine look sweet. I'm going to sand the "H" mark and "Honda Motor Co" to make it have the shiny aluminum look. The head has been resurfaced and fully redone with a nice port and polish to finish it off (will get pics of that later but you can kind of see the shiny exhaust ports). The flywheel is from the USDM B20A5 (2.0SI) and has been resurfaced and lightened (probably can't see it in the pic but it's behind the head and manifold). The box under the head contains all the small stuff like distributors, misc bolts, and ECU. The box at the top left has my spare parts from my old A motor so I'll be using the harness off that and maybe the manifold too.
    Last edited by YK86; 09-08-2002 at 12:43 AM.
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    Here's a side by side pic of the USDM A20 tranny (auto) and the USDM B20A tranny (5 speed). The distance from where I was standing is slightly different but the angle it's sitting at is pretty much the same. As you can see, they are quite different where the bolt holes are and how the tranny curves in some areas. I also noticed my A20 5 speed starter did not fit!! The bolt holes did not match up. Fortunately, I had an A20 auto starter sitting around from the 5 speed swap I did and that one fit perfectly. As long as the gear meshes with the flywheel gear, I should have no problems there. The part the speedo cable goes into is identical. I also compared the A20 rear mount to the JDM 5 speed mount hoping they were the same but they were quite different. The JDM one was labeled PH3/4 and the A20 auto was label PF4.
    Last edited by YK86; 09-08-2002 at 12:30 AM.
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    Here's a closer look at the B20A tranny bellhousing. You can see where Mike had to grind some spots that were hitting the pressure plate. This is probably because he had to use the USDM B20 flywheel. This tranny has been fully rebuilt and fitted with a Phantom Grip LSD. Brings a smile to my face just typing that LOL.
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    I found some time today to take apart the head. The valve train was in very good condition and the cam lobes had no signs of wear or irregular scorching. Actually, aside from the oil, everything looked brand new! Here's a pic after I took out the exhaust cam and the intake cam still sitting there.
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  7. #7

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    After taking the cams out, I took out the head bolts and all the hoses and vaccum tubes attached between the block and head. After removing the head, I did another inspection. The piston face was a bit brown but had hardly any carbon build up. The cylinder walls were in nice shape too.

    I stuffed some paper towels into the oil drainage holes to keep any debris from falling in and then scraped all the left over head gasket material off the block face. Some of the stuff got into the coolant passages but I just filled the passage up with water and all the junk came floating up and out of the block. I washed the rest of the block I couldn't get to yesterday (mainly the back side). It was much easier with the head and intake manifold out of the way.

    After cleaning that, I also cleaned the piston face and made sure there was no junk in the cylinders. When all the cleaning was done, the pistons looked brand new too! Not smooth shiny like Mike's Wiseco pistons but still impressively shiny. I also took the oil pan off to make sure none of the water that may have got in during clean up stays there. I have a new oil pan gasket I will put in anyways. I wiped it semi dry and used a heater to dry the rest so there is no chance of corrosion to start anywhere especially in the cylinder walls. I'm not sure why in the pic it looks like there's marks in the walls but it must be the flash.
    Last edited by YK86; 09-08-2002 at 10:02 PM.
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  8. #8

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    Haven't really done anything the past two days but anytime I had, I spent looking at the JDM parts catalogue and looking at pics from hondaautomotiveparts.com It was very tiring trying to figure out all the chassis codes and stuff to enter into the cataloue but it has sort of paid off for me. I saw a clutch release bearing that looked very simular in design according to the pics so I drove down to the local Honda where they compared part numbers and stuff but they didn't have anything in stock so I drove to the Acura parts department where they were also very nice and took the time to look out back in the warehouse.

    It turns out the 90-93 Integra bearing is IDENTICAL to the JDM B20A. Totally different part number so that tells you can't really go by the part number. The Integra part number is 22810-PS1-015 while the JDM B20A is 22810-PF5-008. You can't use the USDM B20A bearing because there are tabs (for the return spring to hook onto) that stick out wider than the bearing housing which is too wide. The JDM tabs are much narrower together and the tabs are just wide enough so that the release fork can fit in between.

    The pic below shows the 4 bearing I have right now (the top half shows the side facing the tranny while the bottom half shows the flywheel side). The 1st one to the left is the A20A bearing which is much smaller than the rest. Not even close to working. The 2nd on is the used JDM B20A that I borrowed from SPI Tuning. The 3rd one is the 90-93 Integra bearing with the bag it came in underneath. The 4th one is the 3rd gen Prelude bearing Mike modified to fit the JDM tranny. The tabs that were in the way were ground off but with no tabs to hook the return spring onto, it was risky too use.

    I am going to be taking a box full of parts like water pump and timing belt to a local auto store on probably Thursday and a guy I know there is going to help me compare them to USDM Honda/Acura parts so hopefully, this will turn up some matches too. It's really nice to have guys you know take the time to help look for stuff.
    Last edited by YK86; 09-11-2002 at 12:02 AM.
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  9. #9

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    I took one more pic today and that is of the port and polish job done on the head. This is the exhaust ports. You can't really tell in the pic but the ports are quite smooth to the touch and quite shiny. I didn't take any pics of the stock ports on the other head but just to give you an idea, the stock port surface's roughness is the same as the outside surface of the intake manifold (tiny little bumps everywhere).
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  10. #10

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    I haven't updated in a bit so I thought I might as well today. I haven't gotten very far in terms of total progress but I did do a few things like install the new oil pump, clean and paint the oil pan, install the head, paint the tranny, etc which is all small stuff. What I am doing is making trips to the junkyard and the auto stores to try and make USDM part compatible with the JDM engine. One of the big reasons people kind of worry about installing the B20A is because replacement parts could be a huge issue when it comes time to replace them. I am lucky enough Mike bought everything I needed (new belts, pumps, etc) so I'm good to go but I though I might as well make the most of it and try and source some compatible parts.

    The first trip to the auto store involved seeing how simular the water pump, timing belt, and misc gaskets were. The water pump has the exact same shape and bolt hole locations but the cog was smaller (roughly 59mm for the JDM VS 56mm for the USDM). The timing belt was too short (133 teeth for the JDM VS 124 teeth for the USDM) but the width and teeth type/distance apart were the same. The oil pump was the same as was the valve cover gasket but the oil pan gasket was just a bit too long on one of the humps. Spark plugs from a 3rd gen Prelude will also work and Gates UK makes the timing belt for the B20A over in Europe so I am pretty sure you can buy a direct replacement JDM belt from a Gates USA dealer. The store I went to only carried Dayco and they had nothing matching the JDM one. The guy I always talk to knew what I was doing since he works on imports too so we even tried cross referencing in the back of the Dayco book going by # of teeth, width, etc instead of application but no luck.

    I was a bit disappointed most of the critical parts weren't the same but after more thinking, I went out to the junkyard and got 2 cam gears, 1 lower timing belt sprocket, 1 used water pump, and one used timing belt from an 3rd gen 2.0SI Prelude (parts catalogue indicated the tensioners were the same). The guy there was an ass and ripped me off but I didn't have much choice since there isn't much junk/oil burning 88-91 Lude engines around here that I could take apart. My idea was to swap everything over to USDM stuff and hopefully, everything including the belt would fit. That would take care of alot of stuff at once. The JDM cam gears are larger and have 40 teeth on each gear while the lower timing belt sprocket has 20 (just so you know, the crank has to spin twice for every one time the cam spins which is why it's half the number of teeth). The USDM has 34 teeth on each gear and 17 on the lower timing belt sprocket. I went home and installed the gears and pump which all fit fine but the belt was too short which was a huge disappointment.

    Below is a pic comparing the JDM (right) and USDM (left) stuff.
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  11. #11

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    The next day I took some measurements and made a rough guesstimate that I needed a timing belt with 128 teeth. I had the guy the day before photo copy the cross reference page from the Dayco catalogue and phoned to see if they carried a few that seemed close to the 128 teeth I needed but they were either the wrong type of teeth (square instead of round) or the distance between the teeth were too narrow. I went to another big auto store that carried Gates. It was fun trying to explain for what seemed forever why I had to order a belt by size/specs instead of application. The guy kept asking why I couldn't go by make and model. He finally understood and actually was very helpful too. We found one very close to what I needed with 129 teeth and a 22.3mm diameter and gave me a 30% discount on it too with a no questions asked return if it didn't work. He also is going to phone the Gates office tommorrow morning to see if they have something that is a bit more wider and with one less tooth since some of the part numbers we wanted to try weren't in stock at the time. I forgot to ask if they had the 133 teeth stock belt though.

    Anyways, after going home, I tried the belt he gave me and it looked promising. I was hoping my crap guesstimate was off and that 129 would be the perfect fit but like everything else, it was just a tad off (too long). Even with the tensioner all full tension, it was loose enough to skip a tooth. I put in the JDM water pump with bigger cog and that got it closer (tight enough so that it won't skip) but then that eliminates one of the points of swapping to USDM stuff. But if I can get one with 128 or even 127, this just may work. Below is the pic of the B20A using all stock parts and the other is of the B20A fitted with the belt I tried with all USDM stuff. As you can see, the belt with the USDM stuff is too loose especially from where the belt goes from the water pump to the intake cam gear.
    Last edited by YK86; 09-19-2002 at 10:16 PM.
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  12. #12

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    Well, I finally got the belt I needed (or atleast something close to it) so the time and money invested reaped some rewards. After finding the Gates belt to be too long, I ordered in the the next length down. I had already found it on the cross reference sheet on the last trip to the auto store last week but since none of them had it in stock, I didn't want to order one in until I was sure I would be able to use it. The first Gates 129 teeth belt was proof enough now. It's the 127 teeth 24mm 92-96 Prelude H23A belt (Carotman was also sharp in pointing this out after seeing my last post on this thread). It's a bit tight but it fits and the timing seems to be right on when you spin the crank. You can probably see in the pic below the tensioner is all the way back.

    I also ordered myself some blue AEM adjustable cam gears (for B16/17/18/20/21). They should go well with the powder coated valve cover and also eliminate any timing problems that may occur. I picked up a new water pump too and used the junkyard one as the core.
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  13. #13

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    The other thing I was working on was the intake manifold. I wanted to port match my JG bored throttlebody to the manifold to get the most out of it. The A20 86/87 TB fits perfectly on the B20 86/87 style manifold. I took a new TB gasket and taped it to the JG TB. I then took a knife and cut the gasket material to match the inner diameter of the TB. After getting that done, I slid the gasket on to the manifold (which is completely stripped) and traced a line so I know how much to cut. Thanks to Turbo Justin for showing me how to do this when I first picked up the JG TB a couple years ago. I never got around to doing it on the A motor but his advice came in handy for the B20.

    I used a grinding bit recommended at the auto store and started grinding away. Lots of oil is recommened so the cutting bit doesn't get clogged with aluminum. The pic below compares an untouched manifold and modified one. The stock one has a hole and then takes a step where it becomes wide all of a sudden (it's like the opening is bottlenecking the manifold). I basically got rid of the "step" and the hole pretty much goes flush with the rest of the inside walls (I hope that crappy explanation sort of made sense). I also made sure to round off the outside edge after. After taking the pic, I smoothed it out some more and then sanded it down to get as smooth of a finish as possible. I also made sure to wash it out really good to get rid of any metal shaving that may be inside. You don't want that stuff getting into your cylinders.

    Last edited by YK86; 09-23-2002 at 08:20 PM.
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  14. #14

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    The other minor thing I did this weekend was sand down the valve cover so that the letters were shiny metal again to give it that "finished" look. I started with 320 grit on a small block (to make sure I only sanded the raised parts) and then made my way up to 1500 grit to make it shiny and smooth. I also waxed it so it has some kind of protection against outside elements. I picked up a billet APC oil cap too (I know I know, big deal LOL).

    Next up (maybe sometime later this week) will be reinstalling the manifold onto the head and putting all the injectors and stuff back on. I want to get the auto drive plate off too so I can get the flywheel on.
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  15. #15

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    This one week was pretty much spent cleaning any parts that needed it and painting all the brackets and stuff so everything looks brand new. I also started running some of the vaccum hoses, reinstalled the injectors and fuel rail, etc. I stuck my junk alt on to see how it fits and slapped the JDM TB on to keep the any junk from getting in for now.

    One thing I noticed was the A20 alt pulley has more ribs and is a bit wider so I'll have to find a narrower belt to accomodate the JDM crank pulley. The PS pump has to be JDM since it's a bit different from the USDM (how it mounts on the block). I also started running the USDM A20 wiring harness and connecting it to appropriate places. I needed to use the USDM injector wire covers/holders that run along the intake manifold since the JDM wires for the injectors and TPS comes from our passenger side while the USDM comes from our driver's side. All the harness mounting points were the same for both the JDM and USDM manifolds. Just incase I didn't mention it before, I am going to stick with the JDM intake manifold. I do need to pick up more vaccum tubing, finish running a couple wires, and pick up a few bolts, and install the flywheel but other than that, it's ready to go.
    Last edited by YK86; 09-30-2002 at 01:32 AM.
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  16. #16

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    Now for the wiring part. This is the first modification that needs to be done to the A20 engine wiring harness. The B20A uses a crank angle sensor and TDC sensor that's built into the distributor (mounted on the intake cam side) and a separate CYL sensor which is mounted on the exhaust side). The A20 uses a TDC and CYL sensor that's built into the distributor.

    So what needs to be done is to chop off the USDM distributor plug and separate the wires. I was lucky and the JDM motor has both the male and female sides of the plugs still there. I just chopped the USDM distributor plug off and crimped the CYL sensor wires to a JDM plug. The other two wires for the TDC sensor was also connected to the JDM distributor plug using crimps. The two wires that remain on the JDM distributor need to be run to the crank angle sensor pins on the ECU but I will do that later since i need to pick up some more shielded wire (it came with it shielded so it's probably better I stick with shielded ones). The A20 doesn't have wires for the crank angle sensor which is why it needs to go all the way to the ECU. I will explain the ECU pin location and stuff when I actually do it. The rest of the plugs all went in nicely.

    Once I get it off the engine stand, I can remove the driveplate, install the flywheel and clutch assmebly, and bolt the tranny and engine together.
    Last edited by YK86; 09-30-2002 at 01:53 AM.
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  17. #17

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    It's been over a month since the last update and I haven't really worked on it but there's a few notable things. First, because the JDM 3rd gens had the vaccum box on our driver's side, I decided to scrap the JDM metal vaccum lines that run along the intake manifold behind the fuel rail and use the USDM one. Some of the lines won't be used but I'll just cap them off with readily available rubber vaccum line caps.

    The next thing was the JDM intake manifold on the 86/87 version had some white thing that is most likely for emmissions control in the area the EGR valve is on USDM A motors. This is shown in the pic. I couldn't fit the white thing on because it hits the metal vaccum lines plus I don't have the JDM vaccum box which controls it. There is one wire that comes from the JDM ECU which controls a sensor in the vaccum box which then controls vaccum to this unit. Since leaving the thing off whould leave a big hole in the manifold (which is connected to the #4 runner), I cut a thick piece of aluminum I had lying around, drilled two holes, applied gasket maker around the hole, and bolted down my aluminum piece. This is also in the pic. The pic is kind of blurry but hopefully, you get an idea of what I'm talking about.
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  18. #18

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    Since alot of people seem to be doing the swap over the winter, I thought I'd post the wiring diagram up. Big thanks to AccordEXI who helped me with this. This is what he has done so it has been tested and proven to work. He has been a huge help in alot of questions I've had firguring out the details of getting the B20A to wire up and I'm glad he was nice enough to reply and take the time to exchange pics with me.

    The pic below shows the diagram of the ignition system itself. The JDM external ignitor is the exact same as the 3rd gen 2.0SI ignitor so you can grab one of those along with the harness from a junkyard. The pin locations are the same and wire colors are almost the same except the Lude has two white wires going to the ECU. So you will need to cut one of the two coming out of the harness and label it as "red with blue stripe". The pic in the diagram is a pic of the Lude ignitor looking into the pins and what color wire goes to what pin.
    Last edited by YK86; 12-05-2002 at 10:29 PM.
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  19. #19

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    Now this is the diagram of the ECU connectors looking into it (so if you look at the ECU pins, it's the opposite). Note that this is for the 86/87 ECU for both the A20A and B20A. I compared it to the A20A 88/89 connectors and some of the wires are in different locations with addition to different color wires so make sure you double check everything if you are not putting a 86/87 style B20A into a 86/87 USDM Accord. This is where the wires that are in red letters go to:
    C-142:
    Pin #3 Grey=not needed
    Pin #4 Red/Green=goes to JDM black vaccum box and controls the solinoid that controls vaccum to the white emmissions thing in my pic two posts above (I don't have the JDM box plus I deleted it so it's not neccessary) But according to my factory manual, there is a R/G wire that goes to the fast idle control solenoid valve for the A20 but when I checked my connector in my car, I didn't have a wire there (also confirmed by AccordEXI).
    Pin #10 Blue/Green=Crank angle sensor
    Pin #12 Blue/Yellow=Crank angle sensor
    Pin #16 Yellow/Black=Vehicle speed sensor 2 but we don't have on so it doesn't connect anywhere
    Pin #20 Brown=Ignition timing adjustor (doesn't connect to anything but you jump this wire with the green/white wire in C-141 when setting timing. 3rd gen Ludes also have a simular jumper for setting timing)

    C-143
    Pin #8 Red/Blue=goes to the ignitor show in post above. Occupied by the A20A ecu (white wire) for the cold advance solenoid but since we won't need that anymore anyways so swap them out.
    C-141
    No wires added but splicing into the green/white wire and running a separate wire might make it easier to jump with the brown wire in C-142 when setting the timing

    AccordEXI also mentioned that the wires added were shielded in the JDM harness so he suggested to do the same. I bought a big roll for about $10 so it's not that expensive ( I bought way mor etha i needed just incase). I also cut the ECU connectors out of a junkyard car, remove the ends that snap into the connectors, and spliced them onto the new wires so it would fit into the connectors like factory. This takes care of a big part of getting the B20A to work.
    Last edited by YK86; 12-05-2002 at 11:24 PM.
    www.b20accord.com

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