float adlustment screw

[SHOtyme]

OK this is a legitimate question this time. Got my idle issues fixed...sorta. Well now I have a serious leak at the float adlustment screw?? I mistakingly turned this screw thinking it was something else and now it just leaks profusley and won't stop. I tried to remove the float so that I could try and replace the o-rings but I can't get the pin holding the float out and in turn can't remove the float screw. Being that I am completely out of money at this point what can I do to fix this problem. It looks like I am gonna hafta get a used carb from a junkyard but I don't want to have to replace this part for such a seemingly simple problem. This carburator crap is complicated!! TIA

[SHOtyme]

Wow! No one has encountered this problem...I must have a rare birdie.

[A20A1]

o-rings are about 80 cents...

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5350


You can apply heat to the float stop and bend it out of the way and then carefuly heat and rebend the float stop after you fix the o-rings. It's delicate work.
If you accidently break the float stop try to make your own;

You could wrap some wire between the two posts that have the pin through them... make a notch in the aluminum so the wire doesn't slip off the posts.

Or you can JB weld an "L" section of a paper clip to one of the posts and use that as a stopper.

Plenty of ways to make a float stop. I wish the stock carb made the float stop removable to allow for easly float screw removal but oh well.

Here are a few pics

Pic one is the float adjustment screw, float needle, air fuel adjustment screw, and some o-rings.


Before making any adjustments to the float level you think is set wrong... make sure that it isn't a bad fuel pump or clogged filter causing the low fuel level.
First remove the air box to get a good look at the carburetor... if you need to have the carb running while you have the air box removed look at the link below.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38108

Here is a pic of the air box with the lid off.


Here is the stock carburetor


Here is a close up of the carburetor, this is the right side of the carb if you are standing at the front of the car facing the motor.
The red line represents where the fuel level inside the float bowl should be when looking thru the glass.
The red line is the correct fuel level when the car is running.


If the pump and fuel filters are operating correctly and the fuel level is still low then adjust the float setting with the float adjustment screw.


If the float level is too high it could be a leaking o-ring, there are two rubber o-rings on the float adjustment screw.

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To access the float and remove the float look at the rebuild links above in the first two posts.
The float valve is easy to get out once you remove the float pin
Below is an image of the float valve screwed in as if it were being removed but it is blocked by the float and the float stop. If you remove the pin you can remove the float and then remove the float valve.

If you try just removing the float stop to remove the float vavle... then you'll run into problems when the float level gets too low... the float needle might fall out and you'll end up with a serious gas leak and an over filled float bowl...

Be cautious cause the float valve o-rings are easily damaged, especially used o-rings... so constant adjustment of the float setting is not advised after the carb has been rebuilt... so it is important to rememver where the float screw was set at before it was removed... this will minimize how much you need to turn the screw later once you install the carb and run the car.


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[SHOtyme]

KUDOS 2 U!!! ThanXX.

[Accordaone]

Just a word of caution. I used an after market float needle while rebuilding carb a couple years ago and had fast idle problems, rough idling, etc. until using Honda parts. The rubber needle from the after market kit was actually shedding chunks of rubber!