do sloted rotors really make a difrence? my stock rotors are worn out and i need new ones but dont know if i should get sloted or not and how much xtra are sloted and is it worth it
do sloted rotors really make a difrence? my stock rotors are worn out and i need new ones but dont know if i should get sloted or not and how much xtra are sloted and is it worth it
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
if you're going to get rid of the car, just go and get the cheap rotors and pads for it, but if you plan on keeping it then get the good rotors for it
Actually it doesn't matter. Have you ever come close to overheating the brakes? Probably not. If you're really concerned get a semi-decent set of pads and call it.
Alex
yeah we are keeping it for some time now......it dose not need pads yet but the rotor are worn down and the car shakes a whole lot when we push the brakes
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Personally I overheat my brakes sometimes coming off the interstate...might be too fast driving...but as soon as I get the money I'm definitely going slotted/cross drilled.
Im actually saving up money to upgarde my brake system and am gonna buy slotted. Reason being the other day i braked from a pretty high speed and experienced some fade not to mention a weird pedal feel. I think its good insurance if you tend to drive at higher than posted speeds or if you ride your brakes alot. if not blanks, a good set of pads and good brake fluid will do you well.
No more 3G but that doesn't mean i cant look at yours...
Brake fade can be reduced a huge amount just by changing out your brake fluid. Get something with a higher boiling point, a synthetic is the best way to go. If you're going to really spend big bucks on your brakes, you might as well spend some money on your fluid and pick up some Castrol SRF. It's $90 for a bottle, but it's wet boiling point is about the same as it is dry.
If you want something effective without the cost, I hear that Motul 600 is about the best you're going to get. I haven't done a brake fluid swap myself yet, but after doing some serious heat cycling on my rotors, I did some research. And some brake experts I spoke to said this was hugely important. It's the next upgrade coming to my brake system.
Good info dude thanks. Im sure your right about the fluid causing fade cause when i experienced it the pedal gradually went higher as i held it and it had a spongy feel to it (Probly cause my fluid was boiling at that pointOriginally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
). Yeah i was planning on getting the motul fluid also along with ss brake lines and rotors.
Last edited by 87LXiR; 04-06-2007 at 05:59 PM.
No more 3G but that doesn't mean i cant look at yours...
your car shakes when you get on the brakes because the rotors are warped
since it does not rain a whole lot in cali just get regular blanks (slots are to get water away from the contact area so you can stop faster) with some HAWK pads and you will stop just fine
my rotors are warped and have graves in them i tuched the midels of it and slid my finger on it and it cut my fenger open
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
If you are going to replace your rotors replace your pads as well. I personally don't think you need slotted rotors.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
No, it's not rotors warping, it's an uneven transfer layer of friction pad material.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Alex
well i have sloted and dimpled in the front......and drilled and sloted in the back. i like the way it feels....i would just get regular with some good AEM pads. i have dot 4 fluid and i dont have any fade or anything.....even if i overheat them.....like doing 100mph stops....they still grip fine.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Sometimes thats the case. But I think for most passenger cars this is wrong. This guy with Stoptech runs only high end brakes, of course those won't warp. Toss a set of cheap rotors onto a race car and watch what happens. I believe that passenger car rotors DO warp. The runout is measurable, and it doesn't make sense that uneven brake deposits cause a nice smooth wave across a rotors surface.
However, some shimmy is caused by brake pad deposits, but that can be worked out easily. A few 80mph to 30mph hard threshold stops should do it. Do NOT stop your car with the pads and rotors heated up or you definitey will leave deposits.
You should get in one or two good runs with some brake fade. If you do then that should be enough heat cycling to get the uneven deposits broken down. Don't do this too much or else you can glaze your pad.
As for your brakes, Messy, if you do about 4 or 5 of those 100mph stops in a row, they will begin to fade and it will be noticeable. If you're not getting brake fade, you're not stopping as hard as you think. Drilling and slotting doesn't really do much on rotors as tiny as ours. Even top end race cars experience brake fade. In town driving and the occasional hoonage on the street is typically not enough to tell the difference between decent brakes and really good brakes.
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 04-06-2007 at 11:51 PM.
well i know im breaking hard since the front tend to lock up....i hate it...when it rains...since they lock up and the rear dont. i would have to do an autox event so i can push the car to its limits
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Se-i rear discs and all around drilled/slotted rotors.
......which in turn will warp the rotors,.. yes?
cross drilled and slotted rotors DO work well , making your brakes last a lot longer and less rotor refinishing in the future. Just get a good set and you will be very pleased. I guarrr un teee.
One thing that really pisses rotors offis hard braking an holding the brake down at the complete stop, I always kind of roll forward a bit so that I dont hold the calipers down on the rotor on one spot so as to cool them evenly after an extremely hard stop. Nine times out of ten when I turn slash machine a rotor , the bad spot is shaped just like a pad, or in other words where the caliper/pad assy held the rotor while it was red hot.
Like 2nd Gen Guy said as well, changing your brake fluid helps, but not neccessarily changing the complete solution, just changing out with clean fresh DOT 3 or 4, should suffice. What happens is the fluid accumilates moisture, water... and that boils.. which makes your calipers not hold as well when you have stopped so hard your rotors are almost cherry red hot. (a little dutch oven effect inside your calipers then, heh heh) Hence a major cause of brake fade.
Another thing, too worth mentioning is rotor contamination from open wheel designs, these cool wheels look good and do help disipate heat from the axle but they also invite road contaminates, not to mention armor all and such. Be carefull about getting stuff on the rotor when you doll up your wheel/rims.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 04-07-2007 at 10:56 AM.
that does not sound right MH, your rear brakes should be handling the greatest intial weight from the first application of brake pedal, then the fronts work on extinguishing the momemtum. I assume you swapped the prop valve from your donor car, maybe still there is a problem .. possibley in the flexable lines or master cylinder. With low profile hard tires you will have a tendency for the fronts to dominate in the skid.. I guess you are bumping the pedal when this happens to prevent lock up ? But then again you said when it rains, so your whole problem could be tires and caster.
yeah i notice that the rears dont like to stop that good. im going to swap the calipers over since one is going to need a rebuild. and yes i have to do a alingment to the car since its lowered with new shocks and springs.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
oh yeah I was going to ask you if you lowered it yet too.. if you really have a problem with the front locking after you do the obvious simple resolutions, then you may want to look at adjustable prop valves.
Another thing too, is check your rear pads, if you had any E brake issues you could have glazed them, thus reducing friction properties. REally a number of things could make the rear pads glaze...(crystalize is an old school term) it is pretty common for rear glazing to begin a series of symptoms to show up with brakes shortley afterwards.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 04-08-2007 at 06:08 AM.
Dp
Last edited by 2oodoor; 04-08-2007 at 06:07 AM.
yeah i switch over my prop valve when i did the swap its a 40/40 one. the regular lx-i one is like 40/35. i have no issues with my ebrake....it holds fine with just a couple clicks....like i said i think the calipers are the problem....i will upgrade them to the 1st gen legend ones as soon as i find a set.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
E brake issues would be....they could be holding the pads against the rotor if out of adjustment or otherwise not functioning correctley. It may not be holding the rotor but if it is resting on the rotor too hard they will be polishing the pads,
Powerslot roters with AEM brake pads work perfect. Ive had that setup for about 4 months now and love them
i work at cains tire and automotive my boss said to never turn cross drilled and slotted rotors b/c it will f up the turning machine so i would replace with stock rotors
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