Welcome to my world, HostileJava.Originally Posted by HostileJava
He's going to continue to tell you that you're wrong and that you're illiterate and that Carroll Smith knows more than everybody. He's going to keep saying "ALL RUNOUT IS UNEVEN DEPOSITS WHICH CAUSE CEMENTITE FORMATIONS" despite all of the evidence that proves that he is wrong. Despite COMMON SENSE that proves that he is wrong. Despite SCIENTIFIC FUCKING PROOF that he is wrong.
And he won't debate our points, he won't ever come back and do a point-by-point analysis of our points. He'll just keep name calling and telling us that we're idiots.
And to quote the article that HE linked us to:
It doesn't say rotors don't warp. Do you comprehend what IN MOST INSTANCES MEANS? That article also directly contradicts YOU Kelvin. It says "We do not recommend turning rotors". Again, you've proven yourself wrong, and twisted this information into mis-information. It says NOTHING about cementite. Nothing! Do you see CEMENTITE in there? Did you even read my post about pad deposits? I said YES UNEVEN PAD DEPOSITS HAPPEN but it DOES NOT CAUSE CEMENTITIE!What causes 'Warped Rotors'?
Typically warped rotors are caused not by a failure of the rotor itself.
Warped rotors (in most instances) are caused by the brake pads being operated at temperatures outside of their specified range. When the pads get too hot the pad material actually melts and 'fuses' itself to the rotor surface and creates a 'bump' on the surface of the rotor. In most cases this is not noticeable to the naked eye. This creates an annoying vibration when the brakes are applied. The only solution to this is turning (grinding) the rotors or installing new rotors.
We do not recommend turning rotors: It removes additional metal and reduces the the thermal capacity of the discs.
The best way to combat this condition is to use GOOD QUALITY street performance brake pads which have a higher operating temperature range.
Properly 'bedding-in' the pads and discs is a must.
Tip: Our Temperature Indicating Paint Kit may be useful in determining the
correct brake pad compound(s) for your application:
Again, the other article mentions NOTHING about cementite formation. It says rotors don't warp, but wear into high and low spots. The article calls is Disc Thickness Variation (DTV). Again, they say DON'T USE CHEAP ROTORS.
Cementite? No mention of it. A good theory? Yes I think so. It makes WAY more sense than your theory of Cementite. Perhaps I'll look into it more, but DTV is mostly the same theory and principles as rotor warpage. They even say that DTV will come BACK with BRAND NEW ROTORS! NOT UNEVEN PAD DEPOSITS. Read your own articles.Replacing a rotor with excessive DTV with another new rotor will only correct the problem temporarily, because eventually the associated LRO with the new rotor will lead to DTV over a period of time, and the problem repeats itself all over again. Machining a rotor with excessive DTV on a bench lathe will only temporarily correct the problem because the rotor is being machined true to the bench lathes spindle and not the spindle on the car, plus the spindle on the bench lathe has its own runout.
Kelvin, do you know why you're getting pissed off? Because your points are being shot down 1 by 1. Instead of coming back point by point (like a grown man) you come back like a little kid and accuse US of not reading anything. You're the one who didn't read! The articles YOU posted proved you wrong and you've proven yourself wrong.
I haven't made it for 2 years on this forum by spreading BS and being a closed-minded person and not reading and listening to what people have to say. That tends to piss people off and get you banned.
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