110,000 on the odometer. Burns a quart per 1000 miles with no smoke (I get a small cloud on cold morning start-ups). Still 27 mpg and plenty of power. I am thinking it is either rings or valve seals. I'm taking it in for compression check tomorrow. Two questions.
1. What compression readings should I look for to eliminate rings?
2. If compression is good, is there anything to check or just replace the valve seals?
Thanks.
KP.
that is just minor oil consumption. When it gets to like a quart every 200 miles then you have a problem. If youre over like 135psi compression you should be ok for now, and i bet your valve seals are getting leaky
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
135 is a little low i would say no lower than 150
for the mileage it shouldn't really be doing that, someone ran the piss outta that motor
edit: if it's the car in your profile, yeah that's pretty regular for a F22, time for a H22
-Harvey
Tested compression: 100, 75, 130, 130 :-(
they also replaced plugs and valve cover gasket. After about 100 miles it started running rough. The second cylinder seems not to fire at all. There is a spark but the plug is saturated with oil. I'm guessing the cylinder is shot. I have a suspicion though that second injector is not giving fuel. How to test this hypothesis? Any other ideas suggestions? Thanks.
You can test the injector for coil resistance. If you know what the ohms are for the injector should be, that'll let you know if it good. Typically, it's around .7 - 5 ohms.
That compression on #2 at 75 psi is well below specs. I'd fix that first, then fuel.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 07-01-2007 at 09:46 AM.
.
Swapped injectors #3 with #2 and second cylinder still doesn't fire. I am thinking the cylinder is taking too much oil into mix. I need to cover about 230 miles to get back home. Do you think it is doable on three cylinders? It is running rough but doing OK maintaining 70 mph and I already covered about 100 miles like that.
I would stay around 60-65 mph but it should make it. My uncle was running on 5 cylinders before instead of 6 and it made it home just fine.Originally Posted by perlov
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
Unless you're planning to do a complete rebuild, do a wet compression test to determine whether it's a valve problem or a ring problem. I doubt it's the oil that's causing that cylinder not to work, but rather the lack of compression.
Mike
If you have a good buddy at a shop have him do a leak down test and that will tell you what is wrong. Most likely it will be valve problems with this low of miles unless someone drove it like they stole it all the time. Most likely there is build up on the valves and they aren't sealing properly. These engines SUCK to work on. I would find an H22 and swap her in. Unless you have the tools or know somebody that does it could be quite expensive. I didn't have the time once and I got charger $1200 to do a valve job and that was me providing the gaksets and valve guide seals. F22 is harder so probably will cost more. Was there oil on top of the spark plug or does it shoot out of the cylinder? The reason I ask is because the spark plug tube seals are real nice about leaking oil on top of the spark plugs. If you have the know how pull the head off of it.
yeah that sucks....you sure you dont have any oil leaks from like the valve cover, oil base filter, oil pan?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Tube seals were leaking and I replaced them and plugs a week ago - now it is dry in tubes. The plug from #2 was all saturated with oil on the bottom. Also when swapping injectors I noticed a lot of oil and deposits below injector seals. I will take it to a shop to do a leak down test, but it is 230 miles to get back home. Do you think I'll make it on 3 cylinders? Should I unplug injector on #2 so it doesn't randomly misfire?
Do not unplug your injector at any time...bad idea.
http://www.meyerracingonline.com/leak.html You can perform a leak down test yourself. Kits are available at auto parts stores. The link is for VWs but the procedure is the same.
The 1/2 million mile 3GEE SCRAPPED ON 5/26/07 @ 500,122.2 MILES
It did OK covering 250 miles on 3 cylinders - I'm taking it to the shop to do the leak-down test tomorrow. I'll probably come back with more questions when it is done. Thanks for all your help so far.
my car leaks oil from the oil filter base, you might wanna check on your exhaust pipe under the oil filter see if theres oil on it.
It was a broken intake valve that killed the head. Got a reman head installed for $1200 with labor and now compression is 200, 190, 185, 200 on warm engine. Engine runs smooth, but still burns some oil with no oil on the garage floor. Rings are good, valves guides and seals are good too... where to look for problem now?
how much oil is some oil? is it still the 1 quart every 1k miles? less? more?
Do you smell the oil burning at any point in time?
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
I only drove it for 300 miles after the valve job and it looks like it is still about a quart/1000miles. I don't smell any oil burning and there are no obvious leaks.
F22/F23 are notorious for this. piston rings are going out.
-Harvey
If I was to look for the next used accord, which engine / what year is the most reliable for high mileage.
Are you looking for a 3gee? All 3gee engines are reliable if you take care of them.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
they can even make up to 200hp with a right build like rudujy
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
what are you looking for out of the car? daily driver? looking to mod it?
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