lol yeah right. Eagle FTW!!
lol yeah right. Eagle FTW!!
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Why don't you just get stock a20/a3/4 pistons and rods and use those, with some decking and skimming you can get nearly 10:1 CR ratio anyways. Sounds like your not too fussed about performance so might as well jus stick with the stock stuff and save yourself the money to spend on other things.
This is getting cornfusing.
#1 You know OEM is pretty dam durable. #2 you are this far along and still undecided on the bottom end build #3 You will wind up with over 2K in the rotating assembly if you go specialty aftermarket and custom machine work, then what is the point if you are not going all out.
You have some excellant advise integrated in this thread but from here it looks like you would be best served pickig a direction.Or a plan A plan B type thing (no pun lol) True it is difficult because you are taking your time, and you have no way of knowing what deals are going to pop up meanwhile
Just for curiosity how much is a warrenty complete
short block already built from a good machine shop?
That cam is strange, would a 12 valve cam fit on a 8 valve head, of course the lobes would not be used but do they physically line up the one intake lobe? If it is tri flow the two intake lobes are different anyway so it would be hard to dsingush. I don't know that I would like a triflow wiith carb engine personally.
On the carb adapters, ultimately having a one piece custom made would be the best, but buying the redline kit you have mutlitple pieces that are known (on jeeps, vw, mazdas, and hondas) for leaking vacuum eventually due to vibration, expansion, etc., so use thread locker on all fasteners, thin gaskets, and be careful with the carb studs that can push the adapter plate up and warp it. On mine I basically followed A20A1' s how to thread and bolted them together off the manifold and dremmeled them so ports match. Then only partially ported the plates to the intake manifold. After I bolted the whole assy togeter I used high heat epoxy to seal and bond it all ( externally only!!) so that it looked like all one piece. Even if the plates do try to open up leaks later, they will still not leak because they are sealed together. Welding the plates together does the exact same thing but make sure you find somebody that can do it without warping them. Even if they are welded, afterwards they will have to be dressed off and checked .
Depending on your resources, on that, the cost of that service may be close to having one made from billet stock. yea it helps to know people as well as knowing how to do it yourself, and even using someones equipment to do so.
well yeah the stock stuff isnt as bad as most people think but i dont like to cheap out on engine internals i wished i would have upgraded/replaced in the long run. I look at it this way, stock rods are fine and will work pretty good even for pretty good power levels (300+hp) but you should upgrade rod bolts, have them shot peened, and then have the big ends resized due to changing rod bolts. They will be pretty strong but with all that work to do to them, money wise its best to just go with a set of eagles unless youre seriously strapped for cash, machine work isnt cheap
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
see thats the thing i have some experience but have no clue how many ways there are to hit 160hp the cheapest way u know im not strapped for cash but i dont have enough to just go buy everything at once thats why i started this thread to begin with to find the best means to get 160hp and my mind has changed so much scenes the start of this thread
See now i disagree, rod bolts from honda are really really strong even though i had my rods flying around smashing up the block the rod bolts never broke, where as the stock rods with only 200bhp but with the engine being constantly ragged to 7500rpm they broke at the thinnest point on the neck just below the piston skirt.
But if he's just happy with 160bhp and as long as he outs a rev limiter on at 7krpm stock rods and pistons will last at least 60-100k miles before wearing out or breaking.
The money spent on the rods and pistons would be overkill for this build but if he suddenly though hell i bored with 160bhp and wanted to push for more your bottom end will explode thats a given trust me on this i've blown enough up to now what the weak spots are and the imitations on all the parts in out engines.
At end of day you have to work out howmuch you wnat to put in it and if you really are going to be happy with 160bhp which less face it most normal everyday cars have 160bhp so you sure you only what to go this far ultimately? Having the rods adn pistons would give you very good reliability if you wanted to shoot for 200+bhp N/A or Forced induction or even bit of NOS.
no ill be happy with 160hp im shooting for a little more power plus a good life span on the motor, im just misunderstanding the way to get the hp is it more head work or pistons changing to a 10 -1 compression is gona give me power or reliablityOriginally Posted by rjudgey
Increasing the compression ratio raises the volumetric efficiency of the engine; which means you get more power. 10:1 compression will boost power output a little bit with pretty much no affect on reliability. The key to a reliable engine is in the build quality. Make sure all the machine work is done to factory specs. Use good quality bearings and gaskets. During assembly keep everything super clean. Follow all torque specs religiously. Have the pistons, rods, crank, and flywheel balanced. Obviously all the parts have to be of high quality as well but genuine Honda parts are some of the best.
For 160HP at the crank stock pistons and rods will be fine. Bumping up the compression ratio will just help you get there.
C|
so i guess all the hp comes from the head work then
I wish thet i had a garage. Nice work Man. realy clean.
Its prttey fnuny how you can raed tihs eintre snetnece with all tehse ellters out of palce...
My Build Thread
A humorous analogization to help break it down...
The Rat in your avatar. well the little raschal is going to be part of an engine here.
First he has one of those rat spin wheel exercisers OK:
the wheel itself- flywheel
the center bearing , shaft, and retainer- crankshaft
His legs- rod piston assembly
The amount of steps or vanes inside the wheel represents- compression ratio
Compression ratio would be represented by how many steps or vanes he walks on , fewer being high comp, more steps being lower compression
Ok now you have the short block made. So, think how the build quality of the balance, bearing design, and weight of the cage... would influence how fast the rat could get it going and maintain it that fast. a nice micro sealed rollor bearing in the shaft ends, wheel balanced so it does not have an offset to it that could cause a vibration or make it more difficult for the rat to maintain an even pace, or be able to increase and decrease the speed without stumbling on his head. The compression ratio, how many leg stretches per revolution are required to obtain a predetermined output ratio/which translates to crank horsepower. Remember he is not going to get much more tired with either as long as the wheel is assembled with meticulous attention to making it incredibly easy to spin and keep spinning without much effort. Just having fewer steps, or higher compression, will get that to that HP output more assertively.
NOW, the marsupial's internals, or health represents the induction system which includes ignition, fuel deliver, air delvery, head, valves, and all involved. The ole boy needs to be a good sprinter aye?
Ign- brain and autonomic nervous system- precise thought with coordination
Air Fuel induction- eye ear nose and throat -no boogers, newports or flem
Head assy complete, intake valves, cam, cam timing, exhaust flow- Lungs and Heart- very important to make this whole thing get to maximum wheel or crank output as quickley as possible and be able to maintain that output.
So, I hope that clears things up on where Horsepower begins and what percentage of each area you need to get there.
Short block- OEM or custom machine build- quality metals and tolorances- well balanced and strong joints...err rod cap bolts
Head-and Fuel/Air delivery- built to push combustable mixture through fast, on time, and steady flow without gasping for breath
Turbos, NOS, supercharging, vaccum pumps, all forced induction (blowing little Stuart shotguns) all require extra durable goods on the cage and his legs so they do not give under the increased pressure or down force.
the end
That's a guinea pig, not a rat.
The powers in the combination of everything, increasing CR ratio, camshaft duration, increasing flow in the head and the induction system, increased flow in the exhaust. REally the camshaft is the heart of the engine and dictates howmuch you can squeeze out of your engine, everything else is really a bottleneck, if a 270 degree camshaft had the most efficient intake and exhaust in the world it would happily give you 9k rpm with 300bhp (example) but as nothign in this world is ever perfect espcialy production engines your lucky to get 170-180bhp and rev to 7k rpm.
If your headwork is top notch and the exhaust and intake is efficient you won't need excessive camshafts and high revs which in turn will mean your engine will be more reliable as you won't be having to rev as high meaning less wear on rings, bearings and valvetrain parts, torque will be better too and so will fuel efficiency so with a well done engine build you should see some gains in mpg but if you do stick your foot down it will increase dramatically cause although you've better efficiency you've also made it a whole lot easier to comsume more as well!!!!
Ok, I never met him (it) so we were not formally introduced. sorry "G" dog... err I mean pig.That's a guinea pig, not a rat.
Also I am in no way trying to sound condesending or insulting ,Ghettogeddy, Im just casting the point with the metaphor contrast, being southern.
I thought that was a really cool explanation, actually, I was just giving you shit.
no none takin im in the learning stage and quite frankly im a noob at engines u gove me some suspension and i can do it but trying to gain hp is like another language lol
And guinea pigs are rodents, not marsupials.
C|
And guinea pigs are rodents, not marsupials.
C|my bad, I always had an issue of Hot Vw's inside my biology textbook
im guessing a supercharger is like steroids ... and NOS is equal to infusing the little guy with liquid chuck norrisA humorous analogization to help break it down...
The Rat in your avatar. well the little raschal is going to be part of an engine here.
First he has one of those rat spin wheel exercisers OK:
the wheel itself- flywheel
the center bearing , shaft, and retainer- crankshaft
His legs- rod piston assembly
The amount of steps or vanes inside the wheel represents- compression ratio
Compression ratio would be represented by how many steps or vanes he walks on , fewer being high comp, more steps being lower compression
Ok now you have the short block made. So, think how the build quality of the balance, bearing design, and weight of the cage... would influence how fast the rat could get it going and maintain it that fast. a nice micro sealed rollor bearing in the shaft ends, wheel balanced so it does not have an offset to it that could cause a vibration or make it more difficult for the rat to maintain an even pace, or be able to increase and decrease the speed without stumbling on his head. The compression ratio, how many leg stretches per revolution are required to obtain a predetermined output ratio/which translates to crank horsepower. Remember he is not going to get much more tired with either as long as the wheel is assembled with meticulous attention to making it incredibly easy to spin and keep spinning without much effort. Just having fewer steps, or higher compression, will get that to that HP output more assertively.
NOW, the marsupial's internals, or health represents the induction system which includes ignition, fuel deliver, air delvery, head, valves, and all involved. The ole boy needs to be a good sprinter aye?
Ign- brain and autonomic nervous system- precise thought with coordination
Air Fuel induction- eye ear nose and throat -no boogers, newports or flem
Head assy complete, intake valves, cam, cam timing, exhaust flow- Lungs and Heart- very important to make this whole thing get to maximum wheel or crank output as quickley as possible and be able to maintain that output.
So, I hope that clears things up on where Horsepower begins and what percentage of each area you need to get there.
Short block- OEM or custom machine build- quality metals and tolorances- well balanced and strong joints...err rod cap bolts
Head-and Fuel/Air delivery- built to push combustable mixture through fast, on time, and steady flow without gasping for breath
Turbos, NOS, supercharging, vaccum pumps, all forced induction (blowing little Stuart shotguns) all require extra durable goods on the cage and his legs so they do not give under the increased pressure or down force.
the end
2006 NASA/VCU regional Semi-finalist
2006 FIRST Robot Rumble Quarter-finalist
2006 FIRST Robot Rumble - Most Promosing Rookie Drive team.
2006 Championship Curie division
2007 NASA/VCU- Regional Winner
2007 Championship-Galileo
74+ matches on the feild
2 months later & you aint got that bitch rebuilt? We want to see some result or your fucking FIRED!!!
.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.................. ..........2 months later & you aint got that bitch rebuilt? We want to see some result or your fucking FIRED!!!
Just joking Geddy...
this thread is soo last month you guys
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
lol its slowly not going anywere lol i have all the time in the world just no money i keep getting sidetracked but it will get done just not sure when
I know what you mean, so much I want to do to the car but no time and especially no $$$
Did you get the pistons in today?
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