SO today i turned 16 and i drove to school and when i got there iparked in a noparking zone and i shut mycar off and i went to tryto start it and it would just turn overand icould smell some gas and inever touched thegas pedal so i let it sit for like ten mintutes and then it fired upand now it will do the same thing every time. so im almost 98% sure it is mymain rely but any other info could help. and its efi and running alittle richi think cause it back fires alot when shifting.
my car did that once at a gas station.....after i filled it up it would not start...so i let it sit for a while and then it started....i dont know what was the problem....it only did it once.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
my 84 did it once, wouldnt stat, ended up rebuilding carb... EFI ftmfw...
- The Rockcord (AKA CJ)
84 Light blue LX sedan 265000
88 Accord LXi Sedan w/ A18 swap to EFI 288xxx
BT mafia All the way
(or Prelude power)
my car is EFI.....and it only fucking does that when im with a girl....i think she was just jealous....lol damn 3geezus.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
lmao wierd shit maing, yeah i know our cars love us as much as we love them, sometimes shows us they mean business...
- The Rockcord (AKA CJ)
84 Light blue LX sedan 265000
88 Accord LXi Sedan w/ A18 swap to EFI 288xxx
BT mafia All the way
(or Prelude power)
Yeah look how much better EFI is. Beanshonda isn't having any problems now is he? Pwned!my 84 did it once, wouldnt stat, ended up rebuilding carb... EFI ftmfw...
EDIT: Sorry to whore this post, beans. I wish I knew more about EFI so that I could help. But your rich condition, with the backfiring might be related. Perhaps leaky injectors flooding the engine? Good luck.
heh, mine does that sometimes. no start, no click, no engine sounds at all. but i've found that popping the hood and jiggling the wires to the starter do the trick.
mine always starts unless low gas or dead battery ........my car also backfires but that might be due to the fact that the muffler is not really bolted to the flange on the cat back lol...........
try hiting yout battery post then start it if it starts get new battery cords
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
well my car starts fine ifits been sitting for like 20 mins after i drive it. but the motor will turn over fine just not actually fire if i try and start it right afteri drive it, and it does this everysingle time.
sometimes my car won't start just after turning it off also. It'll fire like normal but then just drop the idle and die, I give it like 20 seconds and it fires up again no problem. It happened alot when i was teaching my friend how to drive stick after he stalled it a few times. lol
ya i say its your main relay
Beanshonda55, since you smell gas, and
"i shut mycar off and i went to tryto start it and it would just turn overand icould smell some gas and inever touched thegas pedal"
This info might be of use to you if It's not the main relay:
A bad ECT sensor will cause a hard restart when the engine is warm.
I'm not good at explaning what's going on, so I'll copy/paste some info I saved from a site that no longer exists:
SYMPTOM
The symptom is hard to start when hot. This most often occurs right after a Honda has been driven to operating temp, parked, and restarted a short time later. This symptom may be intermittent and the car may fail to start until the car has cooled back down.
THE CAUSE
The problem most likely is a defective engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor. The ECT sensor on Hondas will many times fail. The typical pattern is that they look fine at normal temperature, but go "cold" as the car approaches normal operating temperature. You can see this easily by monitoring the sensor voltage. It will start high and will be dropping towards .5 volt and then take off to a high voltage reading again. Some even will bounce around from high to low voltage. The screen capture to the left is a voltage waveform of a malfunctioning ECT sensor on a fully warmed Legend. The ECT voltage would jump from .6 to 4.5 volts.
So now the engine control module (ECM) thinks the car is cold again, when it is actually at normal operating temperature. This really does not create all that much of a problem while the car is running. The injector pulse width (PW) will only vary about .5ms from full hot to full cold.
The problem is when you cut the car off and do a restart. When the ECM "sees" a start signal and a cold signal at the same time it increases the injector PW from the normal running width of 2-3ms to as high as 100ms. A hot engine typically can not handle this much fuel, and the engine floods.
DIAGNOSING
Testing the ECT sensor is relatively easy. The best way is to test the reference voltage it produces when the car is running. When you check for voltage on the two wires that go to the sensor you will find one is 0 volts (a ground) and one will have voltage. The one with voltage is the reference voltage. The reference voltage starts out at close to 3-4 volts on a cold engine. As the engine warms up, the voltage will fall to about .5 volt. It is not uncommon to see a defective ECT that will go high voltage (cold signal) as the car approaches full operating temperature. Table 1 lists the voltage to temperature information.
A quick "low tech" way to check an ECT sensor is to temporarily substitute the ECT sensor with a 300 (approximate) ohm resistor. This will simulate a fully warmed engine and if the car now starts OK, you know the ECT sensor is defective.
THE FIX
If the problem has been diagnosed as a faulty ECT sensor, the sensor should be replaced.
The sensor is located on top of the thermostat housing. There's two sensors there, it's the smaller of the two (white or yellow connecter) , closest to the cylinder head.
Hope this helps.
Steve
double post
Last edited by 88LXi/87CRXSi; 04-18-2007 at 03:12 PM.
Steve
that pretty much sounds like my problem i have so i guess i will check that tomorow. THanks For all the info.
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