1989 Accord LXI Loss of power at operating Temp

[mastar91169]

I own a 1989 Honda Accord LXI 2.0 manual w/ 160k miles.
New plugs, Wires and oil change 3/20/2007

Synptoms:

1. Acceleration and power is fine before engine warms up to operating temp.
2. Stumbles, loss of power noticeable when engine reaches operating temp.
3. Most noticeable between rpm range of 2000-3000 and in second and third
   gear.

I have heard about Honda's having this issue before but has anyone figured out a solution. Thanks for your replies.

[russiankid]

How is your fuel filter?

[mastar91169]

How do I know? haha. That may be the source of the problem, but I don't think so. Not in this case anyway. Any other ideas? I hear a lot about O2 sensor being faulty, but I also hear that costs around $100...which means forget-it to me. Would it be wise to just disconnect the O2 sensor and drive 'er around for a while?

[russiankid]

How do I know? haha. That may be the source of the problem, but I don't think so. Not in this case anyway. Any other ideas? I hear a lot about O2 sensor being faulty, but I also hear that costs around $100...which means forget-it to me. Would it be wise to just disconnect the O2 sensor and drive 'er around for a while?

I do not own a fuel injected Accord, so i cannot say. Check if the ECU is throwing any codes. My guess is the fuel filter, then again could be something else as well. Are you getting any check engines light when you get this loss of power?

[mastar91169]

The cke light came on once just recently. Whether or not that corresponded to the loss of power I'm not sure. I was driving on a highway with sustained speed of 75mph when the CKE light came on. I haven't checked my codes because I don't know where the ECU is or what to jumper, ect... How do you check the OBD codes for a 1989 Accord LXI 2.0? Does anyone have a procedure? Thanks

[tuxdreamerx]

there should be a link to a manual for your 3geez somewhere on this site try here https://www.3geez.com/forum/search.php

P.S. I also do not own a PGM-FI so I really dont know

[russiankid]

Here is how to check the codes and what they mean.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26342

[mastar91169]

The code I get is 14 which translates to a faulty IAC valve. Would this cause a loss of power, a situation that is more noticeable at operating temp and between 2-3000 rpms? I'm not sure what exactly an IAC valve does.

[2oodoor]

The code I get is 14 which translates to a faulty IAC valve. Would this cause a loss of power, a situation that is more noticeable at operating temp and between 2-3000 rpms? I'm not sure what exactly an IAC valve does.

NO not likely. How can you say it isnt the fuel filter? No dont unhook the O2 sensor.
Sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me, that would start at the fuel filter and then checking fuel pressure in case the pump has gone weak.
If it isnt fuel delivery then it is going to be ignition, transmission, or mechanical.
Automatic or manual?
Distributor would be the place to start if its igntion, check ign timing , inspect cap and rotor, advance system
If its mechancal, timing belt position/condition would be a place to start, and adjusting valve lash

[LX-incredible]

Faulty coolant temp sensor?
O2 sensor signal is used only when car is warmed up, could be that.

[88Accord-DX]

Seen other cars have same thing with MAF sensor, EGR, engine coolant temp & 02 sensor. Sometimes I see the occasional loss of power from a catalytic convertor clogged up & failing coil (packs) ..

IAC= idle air control valve.

[2oodoor]

The code I get is 14 which translates to a faulty IAC valve. Would this cause a loss of power, a situation that is more noticeable at operating temp and between 2-3000 rpms? I'm not sure what exactly an IAC valve does.

now why would IAC code be setting at sustained speed of 75 mph.
Something is very suspicious here or what

Its a manual tranny I am guessing, so maybe it set in between shifts if you were driving easy breezy. So inputs for idle air control that don't set codes readlily, coolant temp.
Were the problems present before the recent servicing?

[mastar91169]

Yes, roodoo2, it is a manual transmission and this power loss situation has been noticeable since I bought the car about a year ago ($200 and it has been getting me to and from work everyday since!). It's not enough of a problem for me to stop driving the car, but if I could fix it without spending a lot of money, I would.

As for the CEL, the first occurrence was about a week ago. I serviced the engine about 2 months ago (new correctly gapped plugs, wires, and oil change). It happened while I was shifting, and driving hard because I was late for a softball game. I was on a highway driving slightly uphill so the engine was pulling a little more of a load at 70 mph, then I got stuck behind an 18 wheeler and dropped to 45-50 mph, then when traffic was clear I down shifted to fourth gear, accelerated hard past the truck before up shifting. A few seconds later the CEL came on. While the CEL light is on, every time I take my foot off the accelerator, the the engine jerks, when I press the accelerator, the engine jerks. I shut the car off, restart it and the CEL does not come back on and the car seems to run fine! That is...until the CEL light comes on again which is intermittent, and seems to do so under heavy loads or hard driving. So, I just shut the car off, turn it back on and it seems fine again.

Also, my car sometimes idles rough, but then the ECU recognizes this and jumps the rpms up about 200 until the idling smooths out.

I hope some of this description can help you out. I still haven't taken apart the IAC and cleaned it...not sure if that's what's causing the problem.

Thanks again

Ryan

[2oodoor]

A tip about engine management diagnoses, any thing involving the CEL and ECU. Just because a code is set for one area, doesnt mean that is where the problem is, for example an O2 sensor code can sometimes come from what the sensor is reading and not the sensor itself.
You have information here that will get you started at pinpointing the problems your having. And also, check the simple things first like vaccum lines leaking, thermostat operation, electical connections starting from the battery.
It seems like you have two diff problems and mulitple causes.
If it were mine , from what you have said, I would do a seafoam cleaning and change the plugs, (NGK) Check the ign timing and advance operation. Replace the fuel filter.Then see what is going on from there.
Yes you may need EGR cleaned and IAC cleaned before replacing anything in that area.