hi so summer's coming around and i need some help with my a/c. i have the button on the console but it doesnt work. iunno if its the compressor or if i have one or not. im guessing i dont since i have a dx. anyways can anyone recommend a compresor for california?
"The Original White" 88 DX Hatchback
Mysterious Project Car
www.myspace.com/tunerplayground
You won't know what hit you
You should have a compressor. It is located on the belt side of the engine. It sits low in the engine bay in front of the radiator.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
when we do the shocks we can check it out.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I'd replace the button first. Compressors aren't cheep. After you replace the button, if you don't see the compressor kicking in. Most systems, usually you can get the compressor to kick in with some jumper wires on the high pressure switch.
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also, if the systrem is low on freon the compressor will not kick on as a safety so you don't burn up your compressor. Hook some gauges up to it and see what it's got. MOst likely it will be low and if you charge it it will leak out in prob a month. Depending on what compressor you got they can be pretty high. I know keihin compressors are very weak. I would take a nippodenso any day over a keihin.
i dont think DX's ever came with A/C
Originally Posted by jschatte
yes they did it was an option tho....when my mom got the dx back in 88 she got the high powered cassette and AC
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
oh, my bad
lol @ highpowered cassette
yeah it was cheesy....first thing i got rid of when i got the car.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Before you go replacing anything, check the system's pressure. The compressor will not come on if it is below a certain level, around 10-15 psi, I think. If the pressure on the low side is above that start checking the relay, pressure switch, wiring, and lastly the selector button.
If the pressure is low, you will need to fix the leak and recharge. At this point it may be a good time to consider converting to R-134a. Before going down this route you need to realize that R134 is inferior to the old R12 and has a higher head pressure, which will kill a weak or poorly designed compressor.
If you have the denso compressor and decide to go the R134 route you should flush the system using denatured alcohol, replace all o-rings, expansion valve, dryer, and pull a deep vacuum overnight. If I remember correctly the system takes between 4 and 7 oz of oil, put in the compressor inlet. I use 5-6 oz of an 8 oz bottle of ester oil and run the remaining 2 or 3 through the compressor beforehand to clean out the old oil. Before anything is run the compressor should be rotated 15-20 revolutions to clear the oil.
You should be able to get all of the supplies for around $100 or so. Once complete you will have a system that can be filled with $3.25 cans of R134 opposed to the $80+ for the R12, that will cool fairly well, and last (if properly done).
Do not attempt this if you have the keihin, and do not use those cheap $39.99 R134 retrofit kits, they are crap. They have other coolants out there that do not require an oil change and have a lower head pressure. Keep in mind that most shops will not touch these because they will screw up their equipment.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
yeah... sadly i saw a sticker above the radiator that said keihin. messy can testify to that. i hope it nothing bad and im hoping that all i gotta do is just get it recharged.
"The Original White" 88 DX Hatchback
Mysterious Project Car
www.myspace.com/tunerplayground
You won't know what hit you
if it's a keihin and freon is low most likely it's leaking from one of the 4 squares they sell the seal kit as I bought 2 of them just incase they say R134 or R12 but I would never put R134 through that compressor the tell tale sign of a leak is oily dirt in the compressor ,condensor, hoses or hose fittings. I swapped over to the ND compressor but most of the used ones would leak if R134a was put through them so I ended up just putting R12 in it since I have 30 lbs of it left ...
If you don't pull a good vacuum on the system & see if it holds vacuum. You'll be wasting money on a re-charge if it leaks. A good vacuum on the a/c system will hold -30 psi.
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