looking for info replacing the a20a1 head...
didn't spot an FAQ or similar post on the subject... maybe i missed it?
checked thru the PDF manual version also...
any info out there?
****
off the top of the head....
--drain coolant
--unbolt headers, push back enough to clear head
--unbolt intake, hold back enough to clear head
--label all disconnected vacuum lines
--remove valve cover
--remove head (after timing gear)
--etc etc..
thanks guys,
.: t
I heard it is easier to remove the head with the intake, makes life easier.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
really. good to know! will check that one out.
still looking for an overview document of some sort!
x2Originally Posted by russiankid
make sure you get that bolt that holds down the intake. and be careful not to break that piece that helps circulate radiator fluid. the thick hose from the middle of the intake manifold that looks like it connects to middle of the intake. you'll have to break the hard plastic piece also to be able to just pull the whole thing off. you could use a flat and a hammer. thats if it aint already gone
x3 it sure does
you would know a18a lol. i did it but removed the intake, it was a bitch
The hardest thing about removing the head is making sure you get all the connectors, vacuum lines, wiring brackets. Set to TDC, mark the timing belt and the cam gear, remove cam gear with belt still on it (don't loose the key), don't forget the mount on the back of the intake manifold that goes to the support beam of firewall (can't remember). And thats pretty much it that I can remember, keep the intake manifold on like everyone else said.
You will need to replace the pvc vlave and the hardened hoses cause they break when you take the intake off. Also it's a good idea to replace the coolant hose under the intake wihile it's off.
Nevermind. I see you found what your looking for in the post below.
Check the head for warpage, have it pressure tested, use metal head gasket. New head bolts should be used along with exhaust donut gasket. Good luck, you'll have fun.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 05-04-2007 at 10:41 PM.
.
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html
http://3geez.wiki-tv.com/Honda_service_manuals
maybe i'll wire-wheel the top of the piston heads while they are accessible...
will probably label all vacuum lines with matching number tags (like 1 to 20) on both ends , and cut in the middle, to make reinstallation of new vacuum lines easier to locate and determine hose length...
Last edited by 88accordSF; 05-04-2007 at 10:40 PM.
damn it...
i'm missing ONE thing like a hose or electrical connection that is preventing the entire head / intake / exhaust manifold from coming out. all bolts are out, all vacuum lines disconnected.... the head moves freely around, still looking for that last connecting peice...
!!!
you doing anything tomorrow? i want to check it out in person
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
at work till late afternoon then i'll be finding the last piece of this head removal puzzle... gonna grab a small mirror with an extendable neck, that should give me a clearer view around the intake, especially during daylight hours. workin at night w/ only droplights is a little harder for this kinda job...
let me know....i get off work around 5...il prob just walk...you know were i work
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
saw you driving up first ave today past the train station
spotted a 3rd gen, then recognized your rims....
yup that was me.....i had just watched a movie
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
laughs you herd its TRUE! it tacks on 4hours to the job not just pulling the head and the intake at the same time
everything is pretty much installed EXCEPT for one pipe that leads out of the head, pointing towards the battery on the passenger side. i think it may be a coolant pipe. still on the old head.
there's the thermostat housing in the most rear of the head, then the distributor, this last pipe is directly under and slightly in front of the distributor.
is the only way to unthread this pipe from the head with Vice grips? i was trying to figure out a method of getting it off without scraping the sh*t outta the pipe with the grips locked on and/or deforming the tube... ? could always squirt some wd40 to ease the process, but looking to avoid messin up the tube...
not really an easy way around biting into the tube, use a plumbers wrench though those have a wide surface area so less stress applied over a wider area.
you don't need vice grips, the plumbers wrench works differently than simply clamping onto the pipe, it sort of cathces as you rotate and becomes tighter as you rotate it.
A few members that don't need the pipe just cap it off at the head.
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.
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- llia
Question #1: Where does vacuum line #27 connect to? From the back of the intake manifold / carb area near the firewall. The only connector port I'm not finding physically, or in the Master Manual. Engine is an A20A1, carbureted.
Question #2: Kragen's / Napa auto parts only seem to stock a distributor cap that is 45 degrees off from my old cap? Is there a replacement part number for the cap? When I went to the Honda dealership, their matching cap to my old cap screw holes were about a 1/16" off...
I was probably going to order a whole new distributor... I believe I have the Hitachi (all round cap). Is it possible / better to order a TEC instead? Or is the Hitachi specifically made for the carb'd A20A1?
Last edited by 88accordSF; 05-23-2007 at 09:29 PM. Reason: booyah
pics
so does it run right?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
running good... finishing up the msd coil, need a couple wire terminals from radio shack in the morning... have the Supercooler in the garage, will probably throw that in tomorrow along with the left axle....
new B&M Trickshift Full Synthetic ATF
new fuel filters, pcv valve & hose
new Napa thermostat
new A20A1 engine head, graphite gasket
new Honda head heater hose pipe
new Napa Gold air filter
new Napa distributor cap
new Napa rotor brass-terminal
new Napa valve cover gasket
new Prestone Extended Life Antifreeze
new NGK BRP6EIX-11 Iridium plugs
new MSD Blaster SS coil
new Mobil 1 oil filter
new Mobil 1 full synthetic 15w-50
still need to finish the velcro mounts for the 7.5" tv... and pick up a power converter for 115v...
Last edited by 88accordSF; 05-26-2007 at 10:44 PM.
that's not the orange antifreeze, is it?
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