What type of filter would you suggest???
What type of filter would you suggest???
is this for a Carbed or fuel injected or just in general.
i have a K&N on my carbed car...its not that bad.
i would just get a filter that is reusable and wont break down over time.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I'm talking about the "universal" type filters... "cone" type...
Man, You guys are lame... No one has an opinion except 4 people?
K&N filters let your engine breathe too much sand. The filter may not ever really wear out, but your engine WILL wear faster. The same goes for foam filters.
So far, the only filter that I've seen do as good as a paper filter is the AEM Dryflow. I know they cost more than the K&N, but you're getting a filter that keeps your engine healthier than any other reusable filter.
I've read this as well... Do you think You could point me in the direction of some facts to back it up?Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky
Seems that K&N has the advantage.... Let me now post this link and hopefully sway your decision for the longevity of your engine...
http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm
http://www.mazda626.net/index.php?showtopic=23394
We cite the Bob is the Oil Guy website for information.
Good stuff!
paper. It's carbed.
The 1/2 million mile 3GEE SCRAPPED ON 5/26/07 @ 500,122.2 MILES
just cause it's carbed does not mean it will not benefit from increased airflow. Besides, this is good information for ANYONE with ANY VEHICLE who is considering an "aftermarket" filter.
Replacement air cleaner assemblies
Foam
RamFlo , Weber Carb
Edelbrock Pro-Flo , Domestic Carb
This is installed directly on the carb, and lets the carb breath from the top down as well as from the sides, thats my main reason for getting it.
- llia
Not too much performance anymore from the ol' 3G.
Also, I Am not looking for performance from this car. It's a beater for my beach house.
2k more miles and the car is history.
Do you sell filters?
Last edited by mbc; 05-04-2007 at 03:55 PM.
The 1/2 million mile 3GEE SCRAPPED ON 5/26/07 @ 500,122.2 MILES
No, I don't sell filters, I just thought having a poll, and compiling some information would benefit everyone on the board. Take the guess work out of what filter to buy so to speak. Personally, i think the K&N would be adequate as long as you do not live in an excessivly dusty environment. Otherwise i'd get an AEM dryflow or something with better filtration.
The dryflow isn't much more expensive than the standard K&N filter. The only problem is that you have to order them from online in most areas. Not a big deal to me, as I planned on ordering one from the internet anyway.
with a carbed car wont the increased airflow mess with the fuel mixture??? Or is it minor enough where it will change little or none?
On a carbed car, you're just reducing pumping losses. Sometimes it amounts to several HP.
Another thought.... We've all heard about heat shields for our intakes, etc etc. Since the intake piping in our cars would be difficult at best to isolate from the engine heat, has anyone thought of using fiberglass header wrap or an equivelant to shield the piping from heat? I only ask because the air coming into the filter can be as cold as ice, but if the piping is hot, then so will the air be.
The carb will usually compensate well on it's own, adding more fuel with increased air since the rectriction that pulls fuel out is at the venturies not the air cleaner. If you need more air flow then swap the carb since changing the air filter wont give you more flow if the stock carb is the restriction.
If the air density changes then you might need to adjust the mixture settings for high altitude or something like that.
Our carb is a feedback carb though so you might consider just getting the best replacement filter and flipping the lid if you feel the opening on the stock air box is too restrictive. Other then that upgrade the carb.
- llia
It sounds like a good idea. I have always wondered that too. I'm not retarded (just throwing out a possibility), but maybe the exhaust wrap is designed to keep heat in, not out. It might not work on the intake. It's just a possiblity
from looking at the graphs, it looks like K&N is the least restrictive... but it also allows the most dirt to pass through...
I'm all for durbility here. I don't like SAND in my engine. I'll take an oversized paper filter to a K&N anyday. I really want to see how a dryflow does with filtration.
I know first hand that foam air filters are shit. I had one on my 98 civic and it didn't filter worth a damn here in Okla. I bought a Ractive Shielded air filter and it filters great. Anytime I go to clean the air filter my intake is CLEAN. I pull the whole intake off and the butterfly and everything is CLEAN. I have never used K&N but the Ractive filter is the same concept. Oil and clean the filter on a regular basis... I do mine about every three months and have had no reliability issues. Also, the foam filter I had was a Weapon-R
Another issue with oiled filters as opposed to dry ones is the high flow is great, but once they start clogging, they go from free flow to no flow VERY quickly.
So they work but you have to make sure you maintain them well?
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