If your rpms are fluctuating, thats a vacuum problem (not timing) check all your vacuum hoses and replace any cracked or worn hose, one by one or you'll be sorry. The temperature sending unit is located on the intake manifold (passenger side) there is a coolant hose for the manifold and right next to it on the inside is the sender unit (little tiny one) at the back of the carburator and under it. Its the second pic on the manual from the earlier post.
Thx today after school ima take off the air box and look for any messed up vacuum lines and then find the sending unit. will update as usual.Originally Posted by jlros75
This morning after i started my car it was reving high at 2k rpm cause the engine was cold so i blipped the gas to lower the rpms and it kept going down until it shut off. I started it and it stayed on, when i let it warm up a bit for awhile, i shifted in gear and it was reving at like 2-300 rpms and i had to press the gas pedal and it kept it alive, so when i was reversed out of my driveway, i kinda floored it just revved it at like 4k rpm or so and that usualy gets the car running normal and it worked. I heard this weird sound though it kinda sounds like air rushing by a partly opened plastic tube or something, it only happens when im going. Im not going to drive the car anymore until i get this fixed, im sure its because of those two vacuum lines or whatever breaking apart. Im going to duck tape them together again that should hold really well until i replace them. Today after school when the car cools down ima remove the airbox and get to work on that and look for the temp sending unit.
Sorry for a long paragraph heres cliff notes.
CLIFFS:
Car shut off after started, restarted idled fine.
When shifted to reverse car reving at 200-300rpms had to press the gas kinda hard to keep it alive.
Weird air flow sound like wind hitting a partly opened plastic tube.
After school removing airbox, fixing the problems and wont drive the car until then.
Idle whacked: One of the vacuum hoses came loose. You may have left one unattached when you put your air breather box back on. one of the vacuum fittings down by the bypass valve could be cracked where it connects to the metal pipe, on the underside where you cannot see it unless you slide it off and check each one.. Not timing. That air noise it what you hear if you pull off vacuum hoses to the B switch solenoid or to the leakage solenoid circuit and you run the carb in off-idle mode (just above idle RPM and slowly accelerating) That wicked-assed hose diagram for the fuel system in chapter 12 of the PDF file you got your carb diagram out of....that chapter will show all the vacuum lines.
You got no temp gage reading because the signal is not coming from the temperature sender. Its a little sensor mounted in the housing where the water outlet from the thermostat goes. It just has one flat spade terminal connector on it, with a round black rubber boot over it. A broken wire will do it. An air-bound cooling system will do it. No voltage to the temp sesor circuit will do it. You should see 0 to 5.5 vdc on that connector. The sensor is just a RTD resistor element, reads about 140 ohms when hot, and the wire going back to the instrument cluster is blue/yellow at the white plug to the instrument cluster. You can jumper the wire with another wire if you think the wire is bad.
You should get the cooling system professionally backflushed and de-scaled by a good radiator shop. They will completely remove scale deposits, blockage in the heater core, and blockage in the radiator. They will fix all the little leaks, they will use the right hose clamps, they will find the pin-hole leaks that come out as steam, the ones you cannot find. Totally worth it. Not a joke at all. You will be shocked at how smooth the engine gets after you de-scale it and the head starts running cool again.
The air noise i was talking about was my window being crooked and there was a small gap at the top left of the window where air came in or out whatever and made that sound. Im going to take off the air box and check for cracks, unattached hoses, and try to find the temp gauge sender. Zwolf my temp gauge sender is on the back of the manifold i dont have an A20 engine, im other according to the manual. Im waiting for the car to cool down which will take about 2 or 3 hours cause its about 90 degrees or higher here in houston.
You have an A20, the manual was referring to the A20A3 specifically. The repair manual covers A1, A2, and A3 engines. The first two are carbed. You have the A20A1.
When I get home, I'll take a picture of the sender.
Do you still need the dizzy and thermostat housing?
All 3gen Accords had/have an A20. Just the fuel injected is marked as A20A3 or A4 and carbed is A20A1 or A2. Some models in Europe had an A18. It is like the A20 but smaller.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
stupid me lol, yea i still need those but sorry im taking so long to get the cash just right now since my dad is overseas were kinda having trouble getting some things sorted out but can you just like store them somewhere until i can pay for them man? thanks
UPDATE:
I found where the unit was, i found that i broke this cap thing and i saw where it capped onto, so i tried to unscrew the part it caps onto to duck tape it together or something and saw coolant spill out. I looked at the end of it and it was just flat, so i quickly put it back in and i realized thats the sender. Heres pics of the capped part
Heres the sender which is very hard to see i tried to light it up with a flashlight but barely helped.
Would duck taping the cap back on make it work again or would i need a new one?
i need answers quick its getting dark soon and i have to put it back together.
No, you HAVE to replace that. There's no way around it. Let me check my yard before it gets dark to see if I have a spare.
I do NOT have a spare. That's "Thermovalve A."
Last edited by Vanilla Sky; 05-15-2007 at 04:48 PM.
Ok thx man.
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