You can get over night.Originally Posted by ahmad89
You can get over night.Originally Posted by ahmad89
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
It cost $80 for overnight, $50 for 2 days, i think driving like 5 miles to the honda dealer and buying the parts for about 20 bucks would be cheaper.Originally Posted by russiankid
Except most likely they will not have the part instockOriginally Posted by ahmad89
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
need your help guys which one should i get or is the right one. http://www.autozone.com/N,16300590//...eResultSet.htm
Which hoses are you going to replace?
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
The bypass inlet and outlet.Originally Posted by russiankid
The heater valve is more or less in the center of the firewall, in the engine bay. The hoses for it run from the water pipes under the thermostat.Originally Posted by ahmad89
When my buddy had the car, the selector lever would not move to hot. So, of course, we forced it over and heard something break. After I got the car, I decided to fix it. I bought a new water valve and installed it, still no heat. The valve's cable, under the radio, had come off of it's peg. I put it back on and tried to move the selector, it would only move 1/4 of the way over to hot. The arm on the water valve was hitting the hose clamp. After rotating the clamp the heat worked.
What I am saying is that a hose clamp positioned incorrectly after an repair caused the valve not to open. My forcing the selector caused the other end to come off it's peg, which allowed movement, making me think that the valve was clogged. Check that the selector is moving the arm on the valve. If not, check what I mentioned, it takes a lot to clog the valve and it's hoses.
Where is this clamp you speak of? lol or what section in the manual is it?Originally Posted by LX-incredible
I have circled the part of the valve where the problem hose clamp is. You can't see the hose clamp at that angle but it is just like the other one. Notice the clamp on the other side. If the one that I am speaking of were to be turned that way, the valve's lever would come in contact with it.
Make sure that all of the cable ends are on their pegs and the cable sheaths in their clamps.
Or if you have lever controls:
Thx a lot man i'll look into it when i remove all the stuff.Originally Posted by LX-incredible
You shouldn't need to remove anything in the interior, although removing the glove box will make it a little easier. It's quite uncomfortable, but you should be able to see everything. Like I said, it is more or less under the radio and to the right.Originally Posted by ahmad89
Oh that cable i know what your talking about mine is still in that pinhole thing, i'll look again and check for anything loose.Originally Posted by LX-incredible
Good pictures.
Thats the hose that goto the heater core inside your car. The hoses go thru your firewall so you will be able to see it under the hood pretty easy.
wp
K so i check the hose for cracks or what?Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
UPDATE!!!
Took off the air box and 2 bolts that holds the metal vacuum tubing but it still wont move far enough to let me reach the hose and take it off.
In this pic (Shown below) the hose is right under that metal part without a bolt in it.
In this pic (Show below) is the hose that has the leak, its the end of the hose that is fine the other end that has the hole is in the pic above, to make sure yall know which one its the one that you clearly see in the middle of the pic almost thats connected to the side of the thermostat housing.
P.S. oldblueaccord want me to take a pic of the firewall cause i couldnt figure out which hose leads to the heater core, theres like 3 hoses.
Last edited by ahmad89; 05-09-2007 at 03:26 PM.
its the ones under neath the motor mount (dog bone) in your first picture. The slider(hot/ cold) that was mention with the cable you can see on one of the hoses. The other is just the return hose. The slider lets the water run to the heater core .
Another question does you dash lights for your heat and AC come on at all any position?
If they dont that 10 amp fuse may be blown under the dash. It wont let the vents come on so you will have alotta blowing noise but air won't come out anywhere but the defroster.
wp
air blows in any position just when im trying to get hot or warm air it wont blow any hot air just the same temp air from outside. i'll take pics tomorrow of the firewall so you can pinpoint it for me and what fuse? can you tell me the name?
It's not a fuse. That cable in the center, to the right of the of the motor mount, under that unplugged hose, that comes out of the firewall, goes down to the water valve. Follow the cable down and make sure that the selector, inside the car, moves the lever on the valve.Originally Posted by ahmad89
Could you put a big red or black arrow on the pic just to make sure i understand correctly.Originally Posted by LX-incredible
There is a cable coming out of the firewall near the hoses that go into the firewall. Very hard to miss.Originally Posted by ahmad89
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
I'll look when im marking the vacuum lines tomorrow, if it doesnt rain again.Originally Posted by russiankid
lol i just needed the last pic, i knew the rest im not that stupid with cars.Originally Posted by LX-incredible
Well today hopefuly it doesnt rain again, ima get to work on the car as soon as i get home from the vet.
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