What kind of distributor? Our distributors have mechanical advance.
What kind of distributor? Our distributors have mechanical advance.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.Originally Posted by stat1K
I think mechanical and centrifugal both describe the way our distributors work. Since I'm pretty sure it's the same thing.
When i took apart the one i dissected to mount my OBD1 distributor to it was pretty easy. I removed the cam key, then there are three screws that you will see from the bottom(one on each leg down inside the hole). That will only give you access to the sensors though.
To remove the advance mechanism. From the top you should see a cap in the center of the shaft, remove it. Remove the two springs that you see inside of the distributor. Then there should be a screw under it take it out, this will allow you to remove the top half of the shaft, it should slide straight up easily, since it is supposed to move to advance the timing. That will leave you with the bottom half of the advance under it, there is nothing else under this piece other than the bearing along with a triangle shaped plate that is screwed down to secure the bearing to the top half of the distributor.
To remove the entire shaft you will have to pull the small pieces mounted to the shaft off that the sensors pic up the signal from. One of them(the one with only four points) has a pin in it to secure it, that you just need to push out with a small screw driver and a few light taps from a hammer. I can't remember how the other(the round one with multiple points) is secured. There was also a pin running through the shaft with a piece that slide down the shaft from the key end. I believe there was a C clip in there somewhere also but i don't remember everything.
That's all I've got with out taking apart my good one with less than 10k on it, that i don't need any more, or seeing pics of the bottom end.
One for the vacuum advance. On the later tec dizzys there was one for each advance weight.
To get to the mechanical advance on a tec, you will need to remove the ignitor, the reluctor, the pick up coil, and the advance plate.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
thanks for all the info guys. i talked to my machinist yesterday, and he told me that i can only have mechanical OR vacuum advance, not both as its not possible. now that i have gained some knowledge on this topic, i can actually go about dealing with megasquirts ignition setup.
ive asked this question on the megasquirt forum already, but nobody seemed to really know if it would work or not, but here goes. if i were to somehow lock the vacuum advance shaft and prevent the plate from moving at all, would that be a good way of removing ALL advance for my ignition setup?
Have you seen this thread I posted it a while back, may help a little.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53918
BTW we do have Centrifugal advance and vacuum as well.
- llia
thanks for the link man. i never expected to see a thread like this
when i get everything apart, im going to see how everything goes together, and from there, ill probably remove the weights and probably somehow lock the shafts together
is such a thing possible?(to balance it i mean)
I remember seeing it done on the net somewhere, they remove the shaft from the dizzy body, but keep everything else attatched to the shaft and balance it that way.
- llia
I have a 2g lude si. I assembled my MS myself, wasnt too hard, if you can solder well. The lude runs great, and tuning isnt too hard with a laptop. The MS forums have lots of "nice" people there to help you out with tuning. As far as ignition I'd like to use a GM DIS unit. If only I could find a spot for that damn reluctor ring and crank sensor.
Bottles are for babies....Real men get blown!
So is MS an alternative to the OBD-1 conversion?
Honda Parts Connection -- http://www.acurahondaparts.com
D Series Army Dishonorable Discharge
BT Defector
It's a stand alone unit like the AEM one. Completely programable. Next thing i'm buying is the wideband controller, but it is OK without it. For $80 I like the fine tuning of a wideband.
Bottles are for babies....Real men get blown!
As far as ignition I'd like to use a GM DIS unit. If only I could find a spot for that damn reluctor ring and crank sensor.
im going to try the HEI method and see how that goes. as far as my options goes, ive got my 36-1 wheel on, so technically, im ford EDIS ready.
the main reason why im trying HEI is because it uses a distributor. the engine compartment looks out of place with COP, coil packs, or other things when the distributors not in use
Where did you mount the ring and sensor?
Just remove the dizzy and plug the hole.
Bottles are for babies....Real men get blown!
i mounted it on the crank pulley. ill post pictures of my entire build including that soon when my engine in is the car.
as far as removing the distributor and plugging up the hole goes, its easier said then done
How did you mount the sensor? Did you make a bracket?
Where there is a will there is a way.
Bottles are for babies....Real men get blown!
i didnt mount the sensor yet, but it is insanely easy to mount a sensor and position it properly once you get the wheel mounted on. as you can see from the picture below, there are several ways i can attach it on. ill probably be attaching it from the old ac mounting point though if i were to use EDIS
Why use the ring if not using EDIS of GM DIS?
B16 intake?
Bottles are for babies....Real men get blown!
ya, its a B16 intake with a B18 throttle body.
the original plan was to use EDIS for ignition. i really couldnt care less about what my engine bay looks like if it performed like i wanted. i kinda strayed from my original plans when i talked to a guy running a shop for megasquirt. he told me that my distributor has everything i need to use the HEI setup, and it will be less of a hassle to setup despite having a vacuum distributor. i can still go EDIS, but im going for HEI, but if that doesnt turn out too well, then ill be going EDIS
Did you stip the protective coating off the pullies? or are they painted again?
- llia
I'd like to do the GM DIS but if the HEI works for you and gives you ignition timing control through Mega Tune let me know. I might go that rought myself.
How difficult was the B16 intake mod? The post makes it sound simple, but it's always nice to hear from someone who has done it .
Bottles are for babies....Real men get blown!
with the B16 intake manifold, it was a royal pain in the ass to fit. i guess i made it harder on myself to lend my friend my tools cause i had to bring the manifold to his place, and drill/cut the flange. i had a spare head, so i tryed fitting it on, but it didnt work cause the bolt holes were drilled at an angle. with a little bit more grinding of the holes with a small bit, it fit perfectly to the head. the ONLY bolt i couldnt torque down was the one in the top middle, which was impossible to get at anyways, holefully every other bolt will prevent it from sealing.
once i get everything setup, ill let people know how good it is. i got robbed of my weekend, so i cant dissect the distributor i have to remove the weights anymore... ill get to it next weekend probably.
i wasnt aware that it came with a protective coating of any sort. the machine shop that worked on my motor bead blasted the crank pulley along with a few mounts on the engine, and they came out that color. thats the natural color of it apparently compared to the dull copper like color it was before
A drill press would definately be a plus.
Don't tell me how good it is. Give me pros as well as cons. I hear the B16 intake gives a little more top end HP at the expense of some low end torque. I'd like to know how true this is, especially if someone else is doing all the dirty work.
That sucks. Who was the culprit, what done stole yur week end?
What is the purpose for removing the slings from your dizzy?
Bottles are for babies....Real men get blown!
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