OK I see now, you don't apply it to bare metal. So it protects from "rust spore" which can be airborne metal from grinding or welding nearby, sea spray, salty dirt, things like that.Originally Posted by thegreatdane
OK I see now, you don't apply it to bare metal. So it protects from "rust spore" which can be airborne metal from grinding or welding nearby, sea spray, salty dirt, things like that.
Yes but it will work on bare metal as well, as long as the metal sustains coated in oil it wont rust. So it's great if you have areas that are impossible to reach with paint, it's much easier to soak it in anti corrosion oil.
Good job!
Looking great.
All the Aerodeck owners in Japan have been watching your procedure and enjoying the thrill!
Was it difficult to spot weld between the rear side and the roof - it seems very narrow to push in the MIG torch.
Thanks!
Although the nozzle of the mig welder I used was too big to fit down between the roof gutter it wasnt difficult to do those spot welds because the distance was so short.
But I thought it was easier to replace the roof than I had expected really. Took me about 6 or 7 hours.
Sounds like all the spot came off without big trouble and lined up nicely. How about the rear bit, where the water channel below the rear gate? It looks rather complicated with full of sealant if I look at it from outside.Thanks!
Although the nozzle of the mig welder I used was too big to fit down between the roof gutter it wasn't difficult to do those spot welds because the distance was so short.
But I thought it was easier to replace the roof than I had expected really. Took me about 6 or 7 hours.
7 hours sound very realistic but to me that is rather fast job - considering giving all the bridging and checking all the measurement all right. Anyway, it is very nice to know that roof replacement is doable with MIG! Aerodeck owners in Japan are praising your 1st class job!
Props to you, this has to be the most complete and difficult 3rd gen accord restoration that's been done!
2004-2011?
i would have to agree, Dunno if anyone has gone as hard out restoring an accord. Its going to be one perfectly mint aerodeck when complete.
Props to you, this has to be the most complete and difficult 3rd gen accord restoration that's been done!Thanks both. Yea I dont think anyone else has been idiotic enough to put so much work into restoring a 3g accord haha. Imagine what car I could have gotten if I had saved the money instead lol.
Thanks! I envy them though. I dont suppose they have the need for these sort of repairs in Japan? Doesnt seem like the cars rust over there.
I thought the rear portion by the tail gate looked complicated as well, but I didnt have to remove much sealant to get to the spot welds. And I was lucky to hit most of the spot welds dead on when I drilled them out. Sometimes it's difficult to hit just the right spot when drilling out the spot welds and then the job will take forever.
I got a little further with my JDM frontlip prototype today. I gave it a good coat of filler and got that sanded down smoothly. I'm going to give it another coat of filler, sand that down with fine grit paper and hopefully that will be enough to get it ready for some paint.
Last edited by thegreatdane; 01-06-2018 at 04:06 PM. Reason: pictures restored
Mad props to you thegreatdane, your work is spectacular.
Carotman is doing some pretty good chop restoration on his hatch too guys.
!!
Looking great! Such coincident I have painted the front lip today with bumper black spray, too - except mine went horrendous due to damp air today
Thanks mate
Looking great! Such coincident I have painted the front lip today with bumper black spray, too - except mine went horrendous due to damp air today
Haha cool, did you attempt to fill the scratches and the 2 joints? Or are you just painting it?
I gave the lip another coat of filler yesterday so I'm hoping I can paint it next time and get started on the mold soon.
Also I cut open the cabin wire harness so I could add extra wires.
I've added wires for power door locks (control unit under passenger seat like oem honda), clutch switch for the ecu, motor to open the trunk lid, wires for a possible alarm system and the shielded wires to the ecu. I found that in the drivers side wiring harness (the one going to the rear of the car and the ecu) there were 2 oem wire joints that had corroded so much that they were completely disconnected and a 3rd joint had already been patched up.
I had the same problem on my sedan, where my interior light didnt turn on when I would open the drivers door. That also turned out to be a wire joint in the drivers side harness that had corroded bad enough for the wires to disconnect. The problem is that water gets into the wiring harness above the front inner fender and the water then runs along the harness all the way into the harness inside the car. And since some of the oem wire joints inside the car are only sealed off with a piece of electrical tape the water is easily able to penetrate it. Should find a way to prevent the water from getting in the wiring harness..
Welded off a few more holes in the enginebay as well and added an extra bracket for the new location of my brake proportioning valve.
Cant decide if I should bite the bullet and get an all aluminium fullsize integra radiator or stick with the oem one. The alum one would definately look a whole lot better, but I already have an oem one with plastic tanks and plastic shroud that's completely mint.
I Will need to move the lower radiator mounts if I go with the teg radiator so I have to decide soon.
Was looking into the price of getting all new glass from Honda. In usd they want $1622 for evrything except the windows in the doors. Those weren't available anymore.
So might be replacing some of the old windows, i'm not sure yet.
I have filled all the holes(!), scratch as well as joint but your finish looks much better than mine - I didn't be bothered with the top surface.
"Mold" sounds like you are planning mass producing this one? Thats good idea.
The glass sounds great but I would replace only the ones needs to be replaced 1.6k sounds a lot of money.
Looking great!
Oh, and I'll take one of those lips, please.
Yea that is a lot of money, which is also why I havent decided on anything yet.
Well if my replica lip comes out great I might consider making a few extra if anyone is interested
Looking great!
Oh, and I'll take one of those lips, please.
Thanks! If I decide to make a few extras they will be a one piece lip (the original lip is 3 piece as you can see in the pics) and I've made it to fit only the 88-89 jdm/usdm bumper so you would need to shorten it again to make it fit an 86-87 bumper.
How much different is the facelift bumper compared to the earlier?Yea that is a lot of money, which is also why I havent decided on anything yet.
Well if my replica lip comes out great I might consider making a few extra if anyone is interested
Thanks! If I decide to make a few extras they will be a one piece lip (the original lip is 3 piece as you can see in the pics) and I've made it to fit only the 88-89 jdm/usdm bumper so you would need to shorten it again to make it fit an 86-87 bumper.
And are you sure you don't want to fab one up for the other bumpers?
The sides of the bumper are longer on the facelift bumper. Other than that the shape is the same.How much different is the facelift bumper compared to the earlier?
And are you sure you don't want to fab one up for the other bumpers?
I'm going to wait and see how this one turns out before I'll consider making one for the 86-87 bumper.
On the other hand I dont think it's that hard to shorten an 88-89 fiberglass lip to fit the old bumper.
lip looks good. i want to see it on your new bumper
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Yeah if it's just the sides being too long, I guess it would be easy to just chop them off
Gave it a shot of paint today. Looks decent so far, but we'll see how it looks when the paint dries. Took some pics shortly after painting:
Last edited by thegreatdane; 01-06-2018 at 04:00 PM. Reason: pictures restored
This is just the prototype, it wont be going on anything
yea and just put on some fiberglass for the new ends. I imagine that'd be the easiest way.Yeah if it's just the sides being too long, I guess it would be easy to just chop them off
That looks excellent man, that lip is sooooo nice!
thanks, so far I'm happy with it!
ooo wow shiney!
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks