We have a product marketed by Pro-form that is basically a greasy wax which is perfect for treating the backsides of the panels, but how do you apply tin? Is it like body lead or solder?
We have a product marketed by Pro-form that is basically a greasy wax which is perfect for treating the backsides of the panels, but how do you apply tin? Is it like body lead or solder?
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
sounds good.
keep them pics coming
what about that styleauto kit?
that be real nice
Yes it's basically like solder. Body lead might be what you call it though? Our body tin used to contain lead, but since lead is forbidden to use now, it's been replaced by something else.
To apply it you first treat the panel with a fluid we call flus that let's the tin attach to the metal and then you smear on the tin. and you need to heat up the panel with a torch first ofcourse to melt the tin.
nice work. its nice to see that there is still plenty of love for these cars.
http://www.myspace.com/reanimator420
originally posted by ACCORDEPICENTER
it should be there tuesday... So take your keyboard and wrap it around your neck and hang yourself with the cord.
I might get a styleauto rear bumper, and maybe see If something can be done with that and some fiberglass but I'm not sure. I'm not all that crazy about the entire styleauto kit.Originally Posted by guaynabo89
sounds good.
keep them pics coming
what about that styleauto kit?
that be real nice
Yeah...
Arctic White. Like thet Subaru
Its prttey fnuny how you can raed tihs eintre snetnece with all tehse ellters out of palce...
My Build Thread
Do You know anything about Standox arenge paint leasons in Denmark?
Its prttey fnuny how you can raed tihs eintre snetnece with all tehse ellters out of palce...
My Build Thread
No I havent heard anything about something like that, I'm just going to leave the painting to the pro's.
I always wanted to get it painted white with pearl but now I'm not so sure anymore. That white looks good though. I've been thinking about something like the Integra championship white color too.
I like the idea. I think aerodeck already has nice styling without any neon light or lambo door. (it has lambo rear hatch anyway!)
For colour, how about this - this is the most original JDM aerodeck colour and used in advert and catalogues extensively. I had this colour on my previous aerodeck and I love it very much.
or top black and bottom gun metalic - below is an image from Mugen advert in Japan at that time.
or I would stick with that original full black colour - I believe that is part of being Special Edition.
But after extensive panel jobs, black might be a bit tricky because the reflection will be very clear so the smoothness of the body is very demanding.
Last edited by epic1400cs; 06-09-2007 at 01:32 PM.
Alright, how do you protect the backside of the welded panel in hard to reach areas?
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Must have roof spoiler!!!
My number one choice to approve the looks would be to get the 87-88 type rear and front bumper and then add a front and a rear lip. But getting one of those rear bumpers is most likely very impossible.
I've always been more fond of the 1 color paint scheme for the aerodeck instead of the typical 2 color JDM scheme. If it were to be black again it would have to be some sort of special black, but I think black is too "quiet" in the long run.
This is the only one pic from Mugen. I will ask my mentor in Japan if he has anyother stock.Must have roof spoiler!!!
My number one choice to approve the looks would be to get the 87-88 type rear and front bumper and then add a front and a rear lip. But getting one of those rear bumpers is most likely very impossible.
I've always been more fond of the 1 color paint scheme for the aerodeck instead of the typical 2 color JDM scheme. If it were to be black again it would have to be some sort of special black, but I think black is too "quiet" in the long run.
87-88 rear bumper is very hard to come by - even in Japan, aerodeck is very rare in junk yard.
Ofcourse, you can buy brand new but it will be phenomenally expensive.
Ok, so you like mono tone.
How about it - it is gun metal mono tone I think.
Other contemporary colour might be interesting but honestly speaking I dont have good sense for colour
And I'm very difficult to please lol. I was actually just looking at a charcoal grey color, and it doesnt look too shabby.
Normally I am not into flashy colouring but this one is well finished.
That does look pretty good and that's a nice lip/bodykit this person has managed to photoshop. I dont think I would ever get a car painted like that although it looks good, it's not "me" if you know what I mean.
I would seriuosly consider bying that kit though if it was made, at least the sideskirts, I really like those.
that is seriously a good photoshop
Is there any progress??
Well yes, a little progress.
Finished welding in the panels. It takes a very long time making all those spotwelds, making sure that the panels keep cool so they dont stretch and warp.
After grinding down the welds. Now this side is finished.
The right wheel arch is in much better shape. A lot less work is required here.
I might be getting another set of red Koni dampers so I have a set to put on the aerodeck. I found a person who has got a used set.
I think I'm going to remove the keyhole for the trunk hatch. I'm also removing the round sidemarkers (europe thing) in the fenders like I did with my sedan.
Last edited by thegreatdane; 01-07-2018 at 08:21 AM. Reason: pictures restored
Thats seriously time consuming butterfly joint you did.
Thats the best way to joint the panel.
Did you use MIG or TIG?
If that is MIG, it is amazing that you have very little warp there.
Excellent job!
Last edited by epic1400cs; 06-21-2007 at 07:17 PM.
Thanks, it's very very time consuming. I used a MIG welder for this. We call it edge to edge welding. Butterfly joint must be the term for that?
Thats sweet man. I wish I can weld
Yeah, I can imagine it is time consuming to wait each spot to cool down every time!
Yes, they call it butterfly or butt joint (at least in England if I understand correctly) because it is like jointing two plate or sheets edge to edge with no overlap like buttefly's two wings.
Do you mind if I ask how will you treat the back of the welding seam - will you treat with wax type unti-rust chemicals or will you paint with long nossle or something?
When I treat wax to the rear wing from cabin after removing the rear trim, I could see the inside of rear fender but couldn't see the wheel arch (where inner and outer meet together) because the space is very narrow.
I sprayed the wax as much as I could but if I repair this seciton like you do, I will want to spray zinc paint or something so there is little possibility of rust in the future.
I might be doing this near future so I am very curious.
Great job
First a very thin penetrating anti rust product that seeps through even the smallest joints will be sprayed in there using a thin long hard tube with a nozzle with a large spraypattern at the end. It lets you get in everywhere in the panels if you just drill a few holes here and there. After that you spray a thicker substance in there to seal it up. This product may be some sort of a wax substance or a substance that's more like a thick oil.
It's impossible to paint the backside of the welds or at least to do it properly. But you're right, antirust primer paint with zinc is good to protect against rust. But should still be treated with anti rust products if painted.
So are you planning on taking on the rust repair yourself or let someone else do it?
Ah, so you use thin spray first and then thick one. Thats sounds excellent idea. Thanks for your input!
I am not sure if I do it my self or ask shop to do it for me - depend on how much time/money/garage space I can have.
I wish to have a lot of time to enjoy working on the body work over the summer.
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