so i need to replaace my old ones, i was wondering what kind of special tools are necessary, how hard it is to do it, i have a car lift if i need it and many tools. sry if its a repost couldnt find anything and i need help now.
Thanks
so i need to replaace my old ones, i was wondering what kind of special tools are necessary, how hard it is to do it, i have a car lift if i need it and many tools. sry if its a repost couldnt find anything and i need help now.
Thanks
The only part you'll have a problem with is the crank pulley bolt. It's gonna take some force to get it out. If you've got an impact gun, it will make the whole job super easy.
Just take off the accessory belts, crank pulley, timing cover, and replace the tensioner. It's pretty easy to do. Mostly everything is the standard 10, 12 and 14mm bolts.
And you might as well replace ALL your belts while you're in there too.
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 05-25-2007 at 12:52 PM.
If your looking for a visual, download the Free Service Manuals off of the "3geez Wiki" @ http://3geez.wiki-tv.com/Originally Posted by Beanshonda55
2004-2011?
You will need a good assortment of 10, 12, and 14mm wrenches and sockets (deep and regular, i found a good self ratcheting wrench helps), an extra floor jack and a block of wood, a breaker bar/pipe (and a socket for the cam nut). I will not go in depth as the guide is in the how to section but here are a few tips.
The job is a whole lot easier if you jack the engine up. Once the car is on jack stands you want to position a floor jack and jack it against the bottom of the motor with a block of wood (to protect the oil pan). Then unhook the engine mount next the water pump. Go up with the floor jack a few inches and this will give you pleanty of room to work with. You can also lower the motor below where it normally sits to get good access the the cam nut. On the cam nut the best way to get it off i found was to go out and buy a full set of air tools and a compressor.... if you cant afford this, load up the nut with PB Blaster (let the blaster sit for a few minutes) and go at it with the biggest breaker bar you can afford. Use a pipe if you need more tourqe (and if you brake the bar, just tell the snap-on man your strong).
To prevent the the cam from turning when you are removing the nut, you need to get a big flat head and stick in an access hole in the flyweel. it is right on top where the tranny meets the motor.
Other then that, make sure your at TDC when you do the belt, and use a torque wrench... $30 will get you an old school one, but it does the trick.
If you take your time and know the shop manual it's not hard. My 3geez was the first timing belt i ever did, i just took my time and it all worked good. now I have a subaru timing belt to look forward too lol.
that should work regardless of the transmission type, correct? stick a flathead driver thru the tranny timing hole to stop the crank movement, and use the other hand on a breaker bar to break off the crank pulley bolt?
trying to remove the crank pully bolt right now....
Your going to need a second hand to hold a BIG flat-headed screwdriver on the flywheel/flexplate, while you break the bolt loose. Hope you got a cheater bar over a breaker bar if your not using an impact driver.
.
the bolt should be able to be torqued in the same fashion i'm assuming? have someone hold the driver/thin bar thru the flywheel hole while i torque the crank pulley bolt to the specified 83ft/lbs?
also, its a normal tread bolt? or is it reverse thread (turn right to remove)?
*****
the other thing i was thinking about was the cure time for the RTV on the water pump. i usually wait overnight after installing a water pump because i'll use a parts gasket along with a coating of RTV, to let the silicone harden up a bit. anybody ever drive a 3gee with RTV on the water pump directly after installing it with no leaks? maybe it'll work...
Last edited by 88accordSF; 07-03-2007 at 10:40 PM.
I just got a flat head driver in the fly wheel at a good angle, stayed in there while I hammered with an impact gun. The cam nut is regular thread, don't worry, if it seems like it wont move, keep trying (and get PB Blaster). It took me a good hour to get it off even with air tools.
The water pump is going to seal pretty good even without the rtv, Mine probably only set for a couple hours between installing the alternator.
the crank pulley bolt also is regular thread?
Yes, it's right handed. I don't believe there are any left hand threads on the entire car.
C|
POWER STEERING PULLEY BOLT IS LEFT HANDED!!!!!!
That lesson cost me $30 in craftsman easyout bolt remover kit
PWND!
And the mainshaft nut!
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
lol i was just gonna say this
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks