ok so i replace my calipers and breaks i didnt bleed the breaks
so i have a lil bit of play
but he is the case for some reason when ever i break and im going fast my car shakes really really bad enough to make my cd player skipp
but here is the kicker when ever that happends i just hit the break harder and it slows down like it should with out any shaking
what could it be? do you think my pads arent applieing even force?
should i bleed or what?
IDK I have pretty much the same problem, except that when I step on them harder they shake more. I've replaced the pads and rotors yet still they shake...
i dont htink its the wheels because well it would shake when im doing 100mph and stuff
i had a problem with a ford contour but i think it was because the boot was broken or it had a broken mount but i would shake all the time
maybe the book has somehting in it that will help out
Originally Posted by Hans
IDK I have pretty much the same problem, except that when I step on them harder they shake more. I've replaced the pads and rotors yet still they shake...
you should balance your tires...and check for the right air presure
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I've done that and they're fine. They only ever shake under light/moderate to heavy braking.
x2. its funny i had the same problem a ways back but when i bought a new set of tires for the front the problem went away. And recently i put a set of 13 prelude wheels (used tires) and the same problem returned. The way i see it is either the wheels are not balanced or the tires are worn unevenly and/or they have lumps on them.
Not saying thats what the problem is just something to look into
No more 3G but that doesn't mean i cant look at yours...
mine does that.. but only if i brake hard above 50mph or so. my mechanic said i had probably had warped rotors
AHahah high speed BRAKING is much different from BREAKING.
Anyway, check out this site, it has a LOT of info on brakes and how to improve your factory units:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
lol im sorry i was just tooooo tired to spell right can i fix this
wow that helped alot
i think i f-d up because when i installed everythign i went out for a test drive and i hit the break really really really hard not to skid but smoke came out the fender well
so anyway its ethier that or i boild the break fluid so i was thinking of flushing
the system and putting new fluid in
Flush your brake system. If you put on new calipers and didn't bleed, you've probably got some crazy uneven pressure causing the shuddering. And when you put on new brakes, never slam on the brakes right away. Your pads and rotors both need break in periods.
Always bleed your brakes when you disconnect lines. As soon as they get disconnected, air enters the system and you will not have sufficient brake pressure. Why would you do all that work and then not bleed? It's the easiest part of a brake job.
yes, you could have warped your rotors the first time you burned in the brakes without letting them break in. Break in meaning letting the pads settle in and pad surface to rotor surface get "accustomed" to one another. Several mild, slow, braking events can accomplish this.
Another thing to watch for,is when you are working with the caliper, be careful how you handle the brake line, in fact it is best to replace them anytime you replace calipers. Those lines have a coiled steel reinforcement inside that can get damgaged so as to pinch off flow inside the line. What happens is ,( esp if they are old, the metal can get a little corroded) it will let fluid pass one way, braking, but not let it flow so good the other way, off braking... which makes the caliper hold on one side against the rotor, not totally releasing, causing it to heat up the rotor as you ride.
Also, I notice that most of the time when turning warped rotors, the spot that is most out of true is about the size of a brake pad. This tells me the rotor actually warped with the car stopped and the pedal applied. That means the rotor did not cool off at the same rate at that point where the caliper was holding tight againsnt it. So... when you brake hard to complete stop, it is good to roll forward a little or put trans in neutral and release the brake pedal so the rotor can cool a second.
Check out your front end parts. Sounds like something is loose.
Standard front end check,
1: jack up one side of the car until the tire is off the ground. The oppsite side tire must be on the ground still.
I use the jacking point under the doors.
2: grab the tire in the air at the 3 and 9 o clock postion and shake/rock back and forth. slow at first.
You might need someone to help look underneath. This checks tie-rods,steering rack etc. start kinda slow and work
your way up a little harder. Your looking for loosness/slop. Use common sense of course the steering wheel will move or
the other tire may move if you shake the shit outta it.
3: Grab the tire 12 and 6 o clock. Rock back and fourth.This checks the wheel bearing, ball joints and upper links.
There should be NO slop in the wheel bearings.
4: this check might show ball joints/upper link a little better. Use a pry bar under the tire at the 6 o clock pos.
pry up look for slop looseness while prying.
This is your basic "front end check" any good mechanic should know. It works for all makes and models of cars
try it this way and see what you get. if the tie rods are original or the boots are ripped,missing good chance there worn out.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
More than likely your rotors are warped. When you have them turned, make sure there not beyond specs. Put new pads on anytime rotors are replaced or turned. The strut rod bushings being worn out can cause shaking when braking.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 06-01-2007 at 07:44 PM.
.
well having them turned cost more then 10 bucks id rather spend 20 and get a nother new pair my pads are worn out already the screeching now grrr wtf
and i hope they arent warped
i didnt do a break bleed cuz i was by my self and thats a two people job but what ill do is ill just open the lil valve and hit the breaks for a while unless there is a easier way to flush the break sys?
Yeah rotors are cheap and usually they turn them down to thin and they warp right away.
DO NOT just open your bleeder you will let air into the systems and the brakes will be shit. I would just replace the fluid in the master cylinder with new fluid. I use a turkey baster to suck the fluid out of the MC.
If your intersted in really bleeding them search for "one man brake bleeding" theres topics here and on the web.
The rear drum brake adjustment dictates how well your brake pedal feels. If the brakes are not adjusted up to the drum the pedal will travel more on a rear drum system. A quick check of this is how far you can pull your E-brake handle befroe it grabs. It should only be like 4 clicks. I myself find I have to adjust my rear brakes at least 2 times a year to keep the brake pedal firm to my taste.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
No, you did a good job. The smoke should be pad compound overheating. That's how you properly bed the brakes, you get them ridiculously hot without stopping.
I'll say this one time here:
ROTORS, NEVER, EVER warp. EVER.
They get uneven pad deposits. That's it. Don't believe me? Want to argue?
Read this link first:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Dude I will argue this right now. Stoptech brakes are high end brakes. Little tiny 8 or 9 inch rotors that you pay $20 for at AutoZone can and do warp. You can measure the runout with a tool. It physically shows warpage. It happens all the time. You think that the Stoptech guy is talking about every day beater cars? No, most likely he's talking about the race cars and high performance cars that the Stoptech rotors go on.
There's nothing wrong with heat cycling your rotors to try and get the pad deposits off, but SLAMMING your brakes to bed them in is not how it works. Slow, smooth braking from high speeds. And when they start smoking, you're going too far! At that point you're boiling brake fluid and screwing it all up.
Do not base everything that you know on ONE website. Just because it's on the internet doesn't mean it's true.
i got drilled and sloted with AEM pads....stops fine.....i got close to 10k on the set up....has not failed me once.....yesterday i was going for a fun drive.....and i didnt see a corner....i had to hit the breaks because even with my suspension set up i was squeling the tires.....i was prob doing 45 on a downhill turn that you have to take at like 15....it was scary but fun at the same time....you learn what you can and cant do after you reach your limits of the car.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
You're kidding, right?
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
its weird
because the shaking only happends when im doing 45 - 60 only
and the harder i press the less shakage
i think i have air in my lines honestly i just havent had time or cash to buy a break bleed kit
If you had air in the lines the pedal would be spongy. It'd be REAL obvious.
Alex
You don't need a kit. You just need a wrench and somebody to push the pedal.
Yeah, all you need is a flare nut wrench.
Alex
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