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Thread: Brake pulsate... I'm stumped!

  1. #51
    DX User Ls1-Inside's Avatar
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    Re: Brake pulsate... I'm stumped!

    Rotors still warp - it's commonly misdiagnosed as warping, but all the misdiagnoses don't change the fact that some warping still happens. Period. All vibration is not absolutely Uneven Pad Deposits. Thats like saying All Rain water is fresh and clean... it's just flat wrong.

    You're also citing cementite formations regarding brake applications on daily driven cars... obviously completely off base. 650-700C+ Yup... i hit that all the time on my car...

    I'm not saying you're wrong regarding brake vibrations being mostly Uneven Pad Deposits. But you won't admit that rotors warp and thats ludicrous. I know MOST vibrations are from uneven pad deposits... thats very common... and it's also common to re-bed the rotors to redistribute the pad material evenly... as long as you haven't exceeded the operating temperature of the pad material, the deposits are not "Fused" to the rotor and can be manipulated. I'm not going to argue this fact with you, because I've done it myself. I had vibrations braking from 60ish, and after i went out and followed the bed-in procedure, those vibrations went away...


    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvin
    "The problem with this diagnosis and repair procedure is that first of all is that brake rotors do not warp. The second problem is that replacing a brake rotor with a new brake rotor or machining the rotor on a bench lathe will only fix the problem temporary. The problem will almost always re-occur after a period of time, thus necessitating further repairs. Brake rotor disc thickness variation or excessive lateral runout, as well as drums that are out of round can cause vibrations and pulsations in the brake pedal and/or steering wheel. Brake lining material transfer onto the rotor can also have an effect on this as well. "
    First off - this doesn't even make sense...

    1) The problem with what diagnoses and repair procedure? (Link no worky)

    2) "Replacing the Brake rotor with a new brake rotor or machining the rotor on a bench lathe will only fix the problem temporary." - How is Replacing the entire warped or unevenly deposited rotor a temporary solution? That should solve your "Cementite" problem right? Sounds like this guy has a history of Vibrating rotors... maybe he doesn't know what he's doing?

    3) The grammar in this paragraph is so terrible i question it's author's credibility...

    Quote Originally Posted by kelvin
    "Even the best quality discs money could buy would have developed the same brake judder. Here’s why.... As explained above, the disc was continually coming into contact with the pads at the point of maximum run-out first. If abrasive pads were being used this area of the disc would wear down quicker than the rest of the disc surface causing DTV, which is felt as an intrusive judder. If adhesive pads were being run then the pads would have deposited more material on the initial contact point (the area of max. run-out) than on the rest of the disc surface. Again this leads to DTV and brake judder.

    "It gets worse! Once you have the development of DTV the surface of the disc will begin to heat unevenly. The high spots will get extremely hot compared to the rest of the disc. When the temperature around these high spots reaches 650 – 700°C. the cast iron in that area will change structurally and transform into a material called Cementite. Cementite is far harder than the cast iron of the unaffected parts of the disc and will therefore wear considerably less as the disc wears down with use.
    Cementite also has very poor heat sink properties and will therefore continue to run extremely hot resulting in the rapid spread of the Cementite formation deeper and deeper into the disc. As a result the DTV will get progressively worse with time until it becomes literally unbearable to use the brakes. Depending on the pads used and the driving style of the vehicle owner this process could take 1000 – 6000 kilometers to develop and, NO, the initial run-out will not necessarily be felt by the driver. Hence the confusion and clinging to the concept of brake discs “warping”
    I can't believe this... i'm laughing my ass off here... you're agreeing with a guy who is claiming that NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO, no matter how much money you spend, no matter what anybody tells you, after only 1000 - 6000 kilometers of driving you WILL have brake vibrations from DTV!!! AH HA HA HA HA HA

    Thats hilarious!! Fucking Hilarious!!!

    I've had my Car for about 1.5 years now. I replaced the OEM rotors and pads with Sportbrake Cross Drilled and Slotted rotors and OEM Ceramic Pads. I've put 25,000+ Miles on my car, and guess what! No Vibrations!!! Crazy I Know! My friend has put at least that many miles on his Z06 with Metallic Pads and OEM Blanks and guess what! No Vibrations!!! You know why! Because this article is pointing out something ridiculous and claiming it to be fact. Try telling someone that in 1000-6000 kilometers they're going to have brake vibrations no matter what they do. And replacing the rotor is the only repair. And thats only a temporary solution. oh yeah... i'm dying...

    Kelvin - give up, you're the only one misunderstanding and misinterpreting the information you're being given. You're wrong, and i'm really starting to feel sorry for you...


    Dan
    Last edited by Ls1-Inside; 06-13-2007 at 08:47 PM.



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