Small Problem with some Smoke! XD

[mushroom_toy]

Well my car has been spouting some bluish smoke on the highway for sometime now, but I finally do want to get this resolved. When I first got the car it didn't smoke or leak a bit. It started leaking oil after about 10k, so I had all of the leaks fixed - turned out to be oil filter base/oil pan gasket, and a couple oil pump ring or seals. Anyway there were no more leaks and then the smoke started after the leaks were fixed. I know it's not the headgasket because I would at least have some signs. Also know that the temp started rising, but I've always let it cool down if it started to get too hot, recently fixed that with a new water pump. I have no leaks now and my temp guage stays where it is, and im not getitng too hot. but this smoke is annoying.

It all started after my oil leaks were fixed. Well the smoke usually starts about 10 miles onto the highway while maintaining speeds of 75 mph or up. I usually smell a slightly burnt smell before it starts smoking. As long as I'm not maintaining a speed higher than 75 or if I fluctuate the speed, then it's fine. But if I've been going 80 for say 10 mins, then it might blow out a puff of smoke, then stop, and do it again about 10 miles on down the highway. Another thing is when I'm doing 80 and see it start, I'll decelerate and the smoke will slow down or completely stop.

Anyone have any opinions? Is it the valve seals?

[mushroom_toy]

Any suggestions....bump..

[cubert]

valve seals was what popped into my head first....i would think if it was rings it would smoke almost all the time....

[mushroom_toy]

After reading a lot that's what I thought, but I don't know. Is there any way to visually tell instead of doing some kind of test. ie just taking valve cover off and inspecting?

[MessyHonda]

yeah compression test

[2oodoor]

valve seals and valve guides wont show up on compression test
I would take apart the whold pvc system from the oil breather box down under the intake, to the hose fitting at the intake. Make sure the fitting is not clogged , then check all the plumibing. Pay attention to the plastic housing the pvc valve goes into, those tend to deteriorate and crack thus losing the airtite sealing. Then pull off the valve cover and make sure your oil return holes are not clogged.
Let me know if you had some damaged parts there, I had a unique set up on repairing that without using oem parts and it is easier to service afterwards as well.
Keep in mind when a head had gotten hot enough to damage a head gasket it may not always be between cylinders, but only most likely between cylinders.
what kind of oil do you use? I would recommend castrol gtx 20w50w, maybe even top it off sometimes with lucas. Just keep it changed often cause castrol will clean the sludge out pretty good after about 3-4th oil change at every 2k-3k miles

[mushroom_toy]

^ On any car I've only used 10w30 and 10w40. That's what I'm using now is Havoline 10w40. I used to use castrol oils but use full Mobil1 synthetic in my truck, and have heard havoline is the best for honda engines. So I've been using it in our hondas. I will definitely try that next oil cange it's coming up soon anyway. I will also check out the other stuff you mentioned and get back to ya.

[2oodoor]

Castrol is clearer than Havoline, nothing wrong with texaco i guess, it is less expensive. I use it when I cant afford the good stuff,, lol
my personal preference is NO 10w40w , I would not put that in anything, it is just an off the wall grade IMO despite it being around for decades.
gtx 20w50w is great summertime oil for these cars

Let us know how the pvc, hoses to oil separator go when you inspect them.

[2drSE-i]

ive always used 5w30 in mine

[bushbean]

20w50 is thicker than the recommended 10w40. Is our engine designed to handle thick oil?

[Blkblurr]

They are not designed to handle it or they would recommend it. It may work better on older, looser engines just because it's thicker. It will however slightly decrease gas milage on tigher engines. Your symptons sound like valve seals to me. I'm assuming the smoke your talking about is coming out the exhaust.

[2oodoor]

were talking 391,000 miles here....
Mine has like 306,000

IN Georgia 20w50w is not thick when the temp stays over 85 degrees 24-7 for months.

You sure as hell do not use 20/50 in anything made since 1996 though.

I agree, valve seals, but Im trying to provide simple low cost resolutions first before we get to pulling the motor apart, like I said in my firt post, I asked for follow up.

[mushroom_toy]

I will be checking everything out as soon as I can but right now I'm having to work on my gfs car....Mazdas...sheesh.

[Blkblurr]

After I replaced the valve seals when I rebuilt my cyl head, my oil consumption dropped back to like it was when it was new. I also would occasionally see a puff of blue/ grey smoke before the rebuild.